Over heat
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 246
Likes: 6
Over heat
Tonite I blew a heater hose. Weird thing. My digital temp gage never went over 230. All the while I lost all of my coolant over the next mile. Still 230. Yet my analog gage was well above 260.
We always say "the analogs are not to be trusted. Always believe the digital gage". So believing the digital I drove another couple miles to my destination. It took 2 gallons to get going and another gallon after 10 miles to finally get the low coolant light to shut off. All is well now.
What's up with these gauges on my 96 LT4 6 speed car?
We always say "the analogs are not to be trusted. Always believe the digital gage". So believing the digital I drove another couple miles to my destination. It took 2 gallons to get going and another gallon after 10 miles to finally get the low coolant light to shut off. All is well now.
What's up with these gauges on my 96 LT4 6 speed car?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
None. The analoge gauge is FOS. It's an "idiot light" with a needle on it. The analog gauge was working as designed (as a "cold", "warm" and "HOT" light) and the digital gauge was too; as an accurate device that provides you with precise data.
I had a SIMILAR ISSUE (blown hose with some driving to get to destination) with similar results. I fixed the hose, filled, bled and all is well.
.
I had a SIMILAR ISSUE (blown hose with some driving to get to destination) with similar results. I fixed the hose, filled, bled and all is well.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 30, 2018 at 10:17 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Not sure where you're going with this....or what your real question is. You hadn't mentioned the "severe power loss and detonation issues" above, I'd have stopped the car if mine had done any of that. "All is well now"...right?
I believe they have different sending units...but I'm not sure on a '96
I believe they have different sending units...but I'm not sure on a '96
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Sep 30, 2018 at 11:30 PM.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 246
Likes: 6
All is well. The lack of power and ignition "ticking" was what confirmed my suspicions of overheat and that the analog was right and my digital was wrong. I prefer the digital. So i guess i need to replace the sensor that reads for the digital.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 4,150
Likes: 552
From: Glenbeulah Wi
There was no coolant in the engine and coolant is what transfers the water temperature to the digital gauge located in the water pump. The analog gauge is in the cylinder head and even without water the cylinder head heat cause the remaining water and air to heat up and show the temperature above 260 degrees. Without water flow the digital gauge will be inaccurate and so will the analog gauge but at least the analog gauge will respond quicker to the cylinder head temperature rise.
Last edited by bjankuski; Oct 1, 2018 at 02:51 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
In the pic, your speed is 0 mph. That means that there is 0 air flow through the radiator, until the cooling fans come on....at about 230*F. Your digital gauge is showing a value lower than 230, so the fans aren't doing anything yet. Your analog gauge is doing exactly as it was designed to do; act as a dumb "idiot light" that shows you when the car is "cold", "warm" and "hot".
I bet if you run it another 1 minute, the cooling fan comes on and the temp drops down to ~217 or so. OR turn the AC on which forces the fans on and that should drive your temps down below 200*
I bet if you run it another 1 minute, the cooling fan comes on and the temp drops down to ~217 or so. OR turn the AC on which forces the fans on and that should drive your temps down below 200*
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
What about if the analog gauge goes way past 260?
Lot's of info on this topic - thanks all. It's been very hot here in the northeast. I've seen the analog gauge go significantly past the 260 but the digital guage max'es out in the 230-240 range. Someone above mentioned the key point - the digital gauge reads the water temp while the analog gauge is on a cylinder head. But the fluctuation of the analog gauge is a bit surprising. Any concern from the experts here in it going way above the top 260 mark?
TIA.
TIA.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
The digital gauge shows. 212 and 232. Neither temp is overheating for that car. I'd pay attention to the digital and ignore the analog which is nothing more than an "idiot light".
You COULD, if you want, verify the digi gauge with a temp gun.
You COULD, if you want, verify the digi gauge with a temp gun.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 4,741
Likes: 1,639
From: Fairfax Virginia
If it smells HOT then test it with a temperature measuring device to be sure it is not as HOT as you think it is.
If you do hit 260* and your radiator cap is good then your cooling system should be able to handle it, just know you are near the point of the radiator cap opening and releasing the pressure. A 16 pound cap protects to 261* F under normal conditions.
If it is 260* then operating it at those temperatures might warp your aluminum cylinder heads and possibly damage other equipment. I have seen 260 degrees on a cast iron engine and had no problems what so ever.
What I find most interesting is that your Oil temperature gauge is showing a cool engine. If it was 260* in the coolant loop then your oil would be much hotter that it says it is.
I would fix that before too long just to have accurate information coming to your dashboard.
Best regards,
Chris
If you do hit 260* and your radiator cap is good then your cooling system should be able to handle it, just know you are near the point of the radiator cap opening and releasing the pressure. A 16 pound cap protects to 261* F under normal conditions.
If it is 260* then operating it at those temperatures might warp your aluminum cylinder heads and possibly damage other equipment. I have seen 260 degrees on a cast iron engine and had no problems what so ever.
What I find most interesting is that your Oil temperature gauge is showing a cool engine. If it was 260* in the coolant loop then your oil would be much hotter that it says it is.
I would fix that before too long just to have accurate information coming to your dashboard.
Best regards,
Chris
Last edited by ctmccloskey; Aug 6, 2019 at 02:47 PM.