Maybe I should have named this post, 'live and learn', anyway...

I dropped the lower radiator hose and let her drain, removed the reservoir and flushed it out, disconnected the heater core hose from the top tank and used a garden hose to flush through that hose and the tank itself. Re-connected everything, put in 8 oz. of water wetter and it took about a half gallon of coolant before it all filled up. hmmmmmmm. I filled the reservoir with straight coolant and got a bout a three miles down the road before the analog gauge was at 260 and the digital was at 220.

Stopped the car, opened the hood and listened to it gurgle and purge air for five to ten minutes and then it started sucking coolant back through from the reservoir. Refilled the reservoir and haven't had it over heat yet but... Once I come to a stop, the coolant temp starts climbing immediately and quickly. It's scary.

I opened the purge valve on the tstat housing after all this happened while she was running and let it open until coolant started flowing out. I did it again this morning befoire even turning her on and the coolant immediatley started coming out.

I used the green stuff instead of the pink that was in there.

Power feels OK, but there is a definite miss that's been getting worse for the last few weeks .

So, should I be worried about the temp climbing the way it does? The fans don't come on until the analog gauge reads about 250 and the digital gauge is at 240. The two always seem to be about 10-15 degrees off from one another.

I can kick myself for not having watched the cooland temp sensors more closely before changing things, and for not knowing about the purge valve on the tstat housing in the first place.

TIA,
Jay

'95 Auto

 

I had the same thing happen to me.....seems like there was an "air lock"

or something...now I'm afraid to try it again.....what did I do wrong????? :confused:

:confused:

 

You had air in the system (fairly common after a coolant change). It should have purged some or most of the air out from the 260 run. But there should be a little purge screw on top of the thermostat housing you can open to burp some air, or some people drill a small hole in the thermostat itself. Mine did it, a little scary, you can probably add some coolant to the fill tank now.


[Modified by tdock, 2:17 PM 10/28/2002]


[Modified by tdock, 2:20 PM 10/28/2002]

 

Remove the cap from the top tank and see where the coolant level is; it's supposed to be right at the base of the neck. If not, start the engine and let the temp come up to where the thermostat opens. If the system is not full, you should see the coolant level drop in the tank. Bring the revs up to around 1200 RPM and add a coolant mix to the top of the neck. Replace the cap.

Not sure about the 95's but on my 92 there is a second purge valve on the lower left front of the throttle body. That one should purge any air in the tank and the heater lines.

The secondary fan should come on around 220 or so, but if you turn on the A/C it wil force the secondary fan to run all the time. I really don't look at the analog temp gauge as it never looks to be right.

I'm not sure what can happen if you mix the green coolant with any orange long-life stuff that may have been left in the cooling system. Texaco Havoline coolant is the same as the factory fill and it usually is only a buck more a gallon than the Prestone green. I would only switch after doing a complete system flush.

 

I figured all that out, thanks. I was more concerned about the car's inability to maintain its coolant temp when running but not moving. Not enough coolant in the system, bad cap (will replace that tonight,) did I damage something with the intitial run to 260?

Can anyone document what the proper procedure for draining, flushing, and refilling is on this car?

TIA,
Jay

'95 auto

 

Every C4 I've had gets an air bubble in the system if you drain much out. The only cure I've found is to jack the front of the car up (one side is OK) so the radiator is higher than the engine and take the radiator cap off and let it sit overnight. In the morn, fill it up and you're done. Your thermo has to be open too.

BIG JIM

 

Mixing the red and green coolant types is not recommended. This can lead to the formation of a gel-like substance that may clog the system.

 

i've always waited till the therm opens making sure to keep on adding and then bring it up to 1500-2000 rpms, fill the rad. completety full and put the cap on (while keeping it at 1500-2000 rpm) and have never had a problem. This is done on all my vehichles with no problems on any of them.

 

Just did the same thing this weekend. Worked like a charm. Requires an assistant - good job for GF. Mine likes to sit in the vette but won't drive it.

 

So, can anyone point me to the second purge valve? I found the one on top of the tstat housing, but can't find another one. Is it under the throttle body where the hosing from the MAF comes and attaches? or is it somewhere else?

Jay

 

There's not a second purge valve on a 95. Not sure when they did away with it, but by 95 it's gone.

Eric

 

You do not want to run straight antifreeze as you lose cooling ability when you do that.No more than a 50/50 mix.