edit: no longer pulling motor, turns out it was only valve cover leak

 

The cam installation will require removing the timing chain cover, so there's a total of three oil seals to possibly replace, plus the gasket.

The original link and pin timing chain will probably show a "wee" bit of stretch so a new timing chain may be in order.

With the intake off, the bearing and shaft in the block that supports the that water pump drive should be inspected for wear, since if its loose, the water pump drive seal in the timing chain cover will never seal properly.

With the intake off you'll have access to the oil pump stub drive, one of GM's worst ideas ever. The housing is some synthetic material that tends to crack and fail over time so try to find a unused replacement; same thing with the associated gear which meshes with the gear on the camshaft.

Removing the timing chain cover disturbs the pan gasket, so dropping the pan and installing a new gasket will probably be in order.

With the pan off, consider installing a new oil pump, (preferably a high volume, just my opinion)

When I did my Hot Cam install, I did all the above, plus rolled in a new set of main and rod bearings and installed a new water pump, new opti, and new opti vacumn harness.

Plus a new set of valve springs and seals.

 

This is excellent advice. I had all that done (but not the bearings) when I had the hot cam kit installed in my 95 and that was 70K ago with no issues. With LT headers and stock cat back the car sounds really nice to me. You will want to have a tune done to take full advantage of the cam.

 

Not to sound denigrating if you are already aware of this, but please be advised, cam bearings have to be pulled into the bore and aligned.

It's not a simple matter of swapping a shell as there is with the main and rod bearings.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Exactly what I was looking for.👍

 

What's up with the high volume pump? I thought about doing this to mine but my hot idle oil pressure is 45 and my cruising pressure is 60 so I didn't really see the need?

Since you're pulling the engine I'd definitely do the motor mounts. Makes it really easy. Oil pressre sender is also really easy to get to to do. You could also do some mild grinding on the ports to clean them up a little too. I wouldn't go crazy but a little cleanup wouldn't be bad if you have the time imo. Anything in the engine bay that would suck to do with the motor in I'd probably do too.

 

What I neglected to mention, was inspect the "freeze" or "soft" plugs in the block ESPECIALLY those at the rear of the block; if they're brass, your probably okay, but if they're steel, on an older engine they should be replaced with brass plugs

 

Can you get the cam bearing tool into the LT1 with the rods and crank in place?

On some of the old small blocks, with the more common cam bearing tools, you have to pull the crankshaft out (at least pull the caps off the con-rods, you can leave the heads on and push the pistons to the top of the bore, usually with the engine upside down), but you can't get the tool in place easily around the crankshaft and rods.

Don't ask me how I know this.

 

Fuel tank empty or full? Engine will be out for 2-3 months.

 

My preference is tank empty. Easy enough to hook a hose to the schrader valve on the pressure test port and jumper the fuel pump relay to pump it down. Whatever you do, leave the gas cap off. If there's fuel in the system and the cap is on, the thing will push fuel out the lines with normal temperature swings and barometric pressure swings. Another "don't ask me how I know this" item.

 

unless your cam bearings are totally hammered Id leave them be. They are a royal pain to do, holes have to line up etc. Tool alone isnt cheap unless you can find a rental reasonable.

 

I would agree with this. I've never had to do them but seen them done and it was bare block so nothing could cause issue. Every rebuild how to video I've seen on Chevy engines shows the installation of cam bearings on a bare block before all the space reducing rotating assembly is put in.

 

I always do the cam bearings when an engine is out, because it takes 15 minutes.

It sucks a little, but with a pencil magnet you'll get it.

You should check your mains and at least 1 rod bearing (#3) for wear. It's literally another hour to just re-do all your bearings.

And another hour and a half on top of that to just hone and re-ring it.

-- Joe

 

Nobody asked.... How many miles on the engine? All of this may not be needed if it is a low mile engine. In addition to all of the above. I'd replace the valve seals also while its all apart, using a compressor if you have any smoke on startup.

Rarely do cam bearings need to be replaced unless there has been metal shavings through the engine.

 

87k on the engine. Absolutely no problems with it at all other than rear main seal leak and transmission fluid leak that I can't locate. I don't want to pull the heads unless there is evidence to do so, in which case this project will turn into something else entirely.

 

 

everything your doing with exception of cam bearings which I agree with others not necessary, can be done with engine in car. I did my cam swap and at same time I did oil pan gasket,water pump,
must do's(in my opinion) with cam swap
verify rear axle ratio will work with cam. the 2.59 is a joke
Cam, valve springs,hardened pushrods, valve seals,tune, I also did 1.6RR
If you didn't already buy cam you will be much better served getting a custom ground cam to work with your car. converter stall, rear gear all play a HUGE role in cam selection. custom grind is same price.
my car is custom grind, 3.54 gear, 2800 stall converter, all done in car.
good luck.
PS watch plenty of youtube videos on installing water pump drive seal. very trick(if not paying attention) I used the sharpie trick.

 

http://elliottsportworks.com/

 

I wouldnt normally pull the engine but I have the rear main leak and trans leak to deal with

 

looks like your all set, be sure to check geometry, there a guy on another page did that kit(not saying anything wrong with it) had an engine builder do his new engine and at 500 miles he crushed a rocker due to wrong geometry. he reused stock push rods and they were too long with cam upgrade. and I believe the oem LT4 1.6rr are torqued and there is no lash adjustment. always better to go to hardened push rods with increased spring rate. $100 insurance policy. keep us posted should run goon. my cam alone netted 50whp. I used this tool and a cc adj pushrod