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88 Vette. Just replaced the steering wheel with a reproduction wheel. No matter what I do the new wheel is off center. I can install it either to the left or to the right off center. The original wheel was dead center and the car drives straight. Any thoughts on how to fix?
88 Vette. Just replaced the steering wheel with a reproduction wheel. No matter what I do the new wheel is off center. I can install it either to the left or to the right off center. The original wheel was dead center and the car drives straight. Any thoughts on how to fix?
Are all of the horn parts, plastics and canceling cam orientated correctly so that it cancels left/right when you drive it? I would think canceling cam etc would only like one configuration. If you can get everything orientated to cancel, do lane change cancel etc correctly I believe you just get the toe set.
I'm quite sure early column is 36 spline - that's 10° each so if you've got equal left or right by just a movement of the wheel 1 spline it would be considered the correct approach to centering the steering wheel. If movement of 1 spline makes it equal the other direction moving the steering wheel can't correct it.
I'm not sure of the technical name but it's like knurling. It's like a gear with really small/close teeth. The wheel locks into these teeth but even as small as they are its off center to either the left or right.
It's probably off 5 to 10 degrees. That's just my rough estimate. I'll have to measure the degrees.
Last edited by lhinaz71; Dec 15, 2018 at 09:30 PM.
I'm not sure of the technical name but it's like knurling. It's like a gear with really small/close teeth. The wheel locks into these teeth but even as small as they are its off center to either the left or right.
It's probably off 5 to 10 degrees. That's just my rough estimate. I'll have to measure the degrees.
You're talking about moving it just 1 spline I guessed and it's equal distance left or right!
I don't think you need to measure - just confirm that you orientate the canceling cam etc correctly so that turns cancel etc then just get the toe set.
+++someone will intervene likely and tell you that you need to do lock to lock etc and check intermediate shaft but for an '88 if it drove well before, orientate the canceling cam etc then set toe. YOU DID HAVE THE WHEEL CLOSE TO CENTER WHEN YOU REMOVED IT I'M SURE?
Im not familiar with the canceling Cam and toe. I have FSM. I'll look up but if you have tips or page numbers let me know. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Im not familiar with the canceling Cam and toe. I have FSM. I'll look up but if you have tips or page numbers let me know. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
If all you did was the steering wheel on an '88 I doubt you need to be concerned with the canceling cam. The horn-wire likely only orientated 'one way' through the wheel. Confirm that's aligned and then you're good.
SEE 3B5-4
Setting the toe is easiest done by an alignment shop. They would set the wheel to center (lock it) and then adjust tie rods so that the wheel is centered when you're driving straight down the road.
SEE the 3A section of the FSM for explanations.
***** You don't need to be in a 'rush' to have the 'toe set' - car will drive straight as it did before - the steering wheel just won't be centered as it was before.
Thanks all. Looks like I'll be getting an alignment.
If there's no other concerns all you need is 'toe set' - you should be able to accomplish that without an alignment.
Tel(explain to) the shop your concern - you would like the steering wheel centered!
***If you've other maintenance related to suspension bushings etc - do all of them first and then consider maybe an alignment! For now there's 'no need'!
***very dependent upon where you're located but it could be a job that a 'local' vo-tech might consider for you. There's a very good 'explanation as to why" for the student! We'll blame it on a 'reproduction' that was a bit deficient on quality. It's certainly worth maybe the ask.
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