Hello!
still having problems with my car, let me take you through everything that i did.


CHECKED:
-Fuel Pump
-All the fuses replaced
-Power is going to where it needs to
-spark
-relays

Whenever i start the car, it just clicks and the engine doesn't turn over. Maybe the distributor? Thats what im thinking

If its the distributor, can someone explain how i'd go about diagnosing that problem, and if not, can i get help with what the problem can be? THanks!

 

since the engine is not turning over, you are not getting power to the starter. i'd start by cleaning all power and ground connections at the battery. check engine and chassis ground and power to the solenoid. how old is the battery and it's condition?

 

New Battery i keep it on a charger thingy. Let me do what you suggested. Can you direct me in how do clean them in the best way ! Thanks!

I dont know much what im doing but i want to learn :P hehe its my first car

 

Ill do what you suggested. How is the best way to clean those? Thanks!

 

You can remove both cables and clean them with sandpaper, just to get the corrosion off if any. I would say the clicking is the solenoid inside the starter. I would think it is worn and not making contact
perfectly. Take the starter to autozone and have them test it.

 

 

I would go one step further and check the connections at the starter. Ensure they are clean and tight. Be sure to make sure the signal wire that connects to the starter solenoid has a good connection on the solenoid and that the connector is free of any corrosion.

 

Tagging on to what 383vett said - Can you spin the engine over by hand via the crank bolt? If that answers no then you may have some engine issues. If yes, and it's not turning over when cranked but you are hearing the starter clicking you generally have 1 of 2 issues.

1 - Weak battery. Try jumping the car and testing the battery. Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it's fully charged or good. I personally always hook my new batteries up to a trickle charger/maintainer overnight to make sure they are 100% and ready to go.

2 - Bad starter. This issue normally starts causing issues when the engine is hot but they can fail out of the blue. Pull it off and have it tested. It's not hard but if it's your first time changing one be prepared that they are pretty heavy for what they are and also take note of any spacers their may be on the mounting bolts.

 

As you see from the other posts, you cannot know if the distributor is an issue since the engine will not crank over
Assuming the car was running recently, I would troubleshoot in this order
1) clean contacts at the battery, starter and frame
2) the solenoid in the starter is good but the starter motor is failed (as was mentioned) - having it tested is a good idea. If you rap on it lightly with a hammer you might be able to get it to work for a little while.
3) If you have the right tools (ratchet, 5/8 socket and the right amount of extension) go to the main lower pulley on the front of the engine and turn it clockwise. It should require a fair amount of force to turn, but if you can't turn it with the long breaker bar you might have a hydraulic lock as was mentioned. I have also seen engines turned putting a ratchet on the alternator nut but have not tried this with the Vette. This will require removing the plugs to see if any water comes out the plug holes.
4) Long shot: is this a stick shift car or an automatic? If this is a stick is the clutch disengaging?

 

a bolt, a breaker bar, and hydraulic lock - . no flames (just my opinion and 2-cents). i'm not an advocate of rotating the engine using the center crank bolt WHILE the spark plugs are in place. as I recall, the bolt is torqued to 60 lb.ft. and one can easily over torque while fighting compression - not even factoring in any type of hydraulic lock. worst case scenario, a broken bolt head due to exceeding tensile and yield force limits of the bolt - now the fun begins. I've heard of this happening, but personally have never witnessed it - a sheared or broken bolt that is, but an over-torqued condition - yes, so take it FWIW. then again, there's always murphy's law, so to anyone going this route - i'd say, proceed with caution.

 

Fair statement. To be more precise the engine will move just a bit then wait a few seconds for the compression to leak down to attempt again, or just remove the plugs and see if anything comes out.

I have done this before so far no broken bolts

 

...so far.

 

not trying to be argumentative, but is that with or without the spark plugs being in place. it wouldn't surprise me if one didn't hit an over-torque condition while fighting compression. I haven't done hundreds and hundreds of engines, but have done a few. personally, I have used the crank bolt to rotate the engine, but NEVER with the plugs installed. I usually find that when I hit the "something isn't right" point, it's usually too late, so I won't even chance it. again, all i'm saying is, anyone doing this, if not taking the plugs out, proceed with caution. peace...

 

Have someone hold the key in the start position and hit the starter with a bar or 10# rubber hammer. If it starts / turns over it's the starter.


Turn on the headlights - see if they dim when you try to start , the starter is pulling power. - attempting to turn. Check wires and battery. If they go out wiring is bad / battery is weak.

 

Hi
Is common for the starter solenoid needing a repair kit, there is a copper disc that makes contact it gets coated with bits of arc crap.
Eventually it gets so bad it insulates, you may notice needing to try starting a few times before the starter turns.
The click is the starter solenoid pulling in, if the power does not get transferred to the other bolt to the motor it wont turn.
You would hear the starter motor to make a noise ank and power dip if the motor is jammed from turning.

Use a socket on the crank bolt to see if you can turn the motor clockwise, if you can pull the starter and repair or replace it.
I use a mini gear reduction starter, they are light cheap and give more clearance.