1985 Corvette help me :D!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 71
Likes: 7
1985 Corvette help me :D!
Hello!
still having problems with my car, let me take you through everything that i did.
CHECKED:
-Fuel Pump
-All the fuses replaced
-Power is going to where it needs to
-spark
-relays
Whenever i start the car, it just clicks and the engine doesn't turn over. Maybe the distributor? Thats what im thinking
If its the distributor, can someone explain how i'd go about diagnosing that problem, and if not, can i get help with what the problem can be? THanks!
still having problems with my car, let me take you through everything that i did.
CHECKED:
-Fuel Pump
-All the fuses replaced
-Power is going to where it needs to
-spark
-relays
Whenever i start the car, it just clicks and the engine doesn't turn over. Maybe the distributor? Thats what im thinking
If its the distributor, can someone explain how i'd go about diagnosing that problem, and if not, can i get help with what the problem can be? THanks!
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
Hello!
still having problems with my car, let me take you through everything that i did.
CHECKED:
-Fuel Pump
-All the fuses replaced
-Power is going to where it needs to
-spark
-relays
Whenever i start the car, it just clicks and the engine doesn't turn over. Maybe the distributor? Thats what im thinking
If its the distributor, can someone explain how i'd go about diagnosing that problem, and if not, can i get help with what the problem can be? THanks!
still having problems with my car, let me take you through everything that i did.
CHECKED:
-Fuel Pump
-All the fuses replaced
-Power is going to where it needs to
-spark
-relays
Whenever i start the car, it just clicks and the engine doesn't turn over. Maybe the distributor? Thats what im thinking
If its the distributor, can someone explain how i'd go about diagnosing that problem, and if not, can i get help with what the problem can be? THanks!
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 71
Likes: 7
New Battery 
i keep it on a charger thingy. Let me do what you suggested. Can you direct me in how do clean them in the best way ! Thanks!
I dont know much what im doing but i want to learn :P hehe its my first car
i keep it on a charger thingy. Let me do what you suggested. Can you direct me in how do clean them in the best way ! Thanks!I dont know much what im doing but i want to learn :P hehe its my first car
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 71
Likes: 7
Ill do what you suggested. How is the best way to clean those? Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 239
From: Venice Cali.
You can remove both cables and clean them with sandpaper, just to get the corrosion off if any. I would say the clicking is the solenoid inside the starter. I would think it is worn and not making contact
perfectly. Take the starter to autozone and have them test it.
perfectly. Take the starter to autozone and have them test it.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,700
Likes: 1,667
From: moraga ca
It could be an electrical issue with the starter circuit. One other possibility is that the motor is hydro locked or seized. Would there be any reason this could be the case? Did the motor invest any water or did you have an injector stuck open before shutdown. There is a remote chance this is the issue, but the possibility exists. You can pull the plugs to be sure.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 6,340
Likes: 1,148
From: Vermilion OH
I would go one step further and check the connections at the starter. Ensure they are clean and tight. Be sure to make sure the signal wire that connects to the starter solenoid has a good connection on the solenoid and that the connector is free of any corrosion.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 91
From: Leander TX
Tagging on to what 383vett said - Can you spin the engine over by hand via the crank bolt? If that answers no then you may have some engine issues. If yes, and it's not turning over when cranked but you are hearing the starter clicking you generally have 1 of 2 issues.
1 - Weak battery. Try jumping the car and testing the battery. Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it's fully charged or good. I personally always hook my new batteries up to a trickle charger/maintainer overnight to make sure they are 100% and ready to go.
2 - Bad starter. This issue normally starts causing issues when the engine is hot but they can fail out of the blue. Pull it off and have it tested. It's not hard but if it's your first time changing one be prepared that they are pretty heavy for what they are and also take note of any spacers their may be on the mounting bolts.
1 - Weak battery. Try jumping the car and testing the battery. Just because the battery is new doesn't mean it's fully charged or good. I personally always hook my new batteries up to a trickle charger/maintainer overnight to make sure they are 100% and ready to go.
2 - Bad starter. This issue normally starts causing issues when the engine is hot but they can fail out of the blue. Pull it off and have it tested. It's not hard but if it's your first time changing one be prepared that they are pretty heavy for what they are and also take note of any spacers their may be on the mounting bolts.
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Advanced
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 92
Likes: 13
From: Wadsworth, Ohio
As you see from the other posts, you cannot know if the distributor is an issue since the engine will not crank over
Assuming the car was running recently, I would troubleshoot in this order
1) clean contacts at the battery, starter and frame
2) the solenoid in the starter is good but the starter motor is failed (as was mentioned) - having it tested is a good idea. If you rap on it lightly with a hammer you might be able to get it to work for a little while.
3) If you have the right tools (ratchet, 5/8 socket and the right amount of extension) go to the main lower pulley on the front of the engine and turn it clockwise. It should require a fair amount of force to turn, but if you can't turn it with the long breaker bar you might have a hydraulic lock as was mentioned. I have also seen engines turned putting a ratchet on the alternator nut but have not tried this with the Vette. This will require removing the plugs to see if any water comes out the plug holes.
4) Long shot: is this a stick shift car or an automatic? If this is a stick is the clutch disengaging?
Assuming the car was running recently, I would troubleshoot in this order
1) clean contacts at the battery, starter and frame
2) the solenoid in the starter is good but the starter motor is failed (as was mentioned) - having it tested is a good idea. If you rap on it lightly with a hammer you might be able to get it to work for a little while.
3) If you have the right tools (ratchet, 5/8 socket and the right amount of extension) go to the main lower pulley on the front of the engine and turn it clockwise. It should require a fair amount of force to turn, but if you can't turn it with the long breaker bar you might have a hydraulic lock as was mentioned. I have also seen engines turned putting a ratchet on the alternator nut but have not tried this with the Vette. This will require removing the plugs to see if any water comes out the plug holes.
4) Long shot: is this a stick shift car or an automatic? If this is a stick is the clutch disengaging?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
As you see from the other posts, you cannot know if the distributor is an issue since the engine will not crank over
Assuming the car was running recently, I would troubleshoot in this order
1) clean contacts at the battery, starter and frame
2) the solenoid in the starter is good but the starter motor is failed (as was mentioned) - having it tested is a good idea. If you rap on it lightly with a hammer you might be able to get it to work for a little while.
3) If you have the right tools (ratchet, 5/8 socket and the right amount of extension) go to the main lower pulley on the front of the engine and turn it clockwise. It should require a fair amount of force to turn, but if you can't turn it with the long breaker bar you might have a hydraulic lock as was mentioned. I have also seen engines turned putting a ratchet on the alternator nut but have not tried this with the Vette. This will require removing the plugs to see if any water comes out the plug holes.
4) Long shot: is this a stick shift car or an automatic? If this is a stick is the clutch disengaging?
Assuming the car was running recently, I would troubleshoot in this order
1) clean contacts at the battery, starter and frame
2) the solenoid in the starter is good but the starter motor is failed (as was mentioned) - having it tested is a good idea. If you rap on it lightly with a hammer you might be able to get it to work for a little while.
3) If you have the right tools (ratchet, 5/8 socket and the right amount of extension) go to the main lower pulley on the front of the engine and turn it clockwise. It should require a fair amount of force to turn, but if you can't turn it with the long breaker bar you might have a hydraulic lock as was mentioned. I have also seen engines turned putting a ratchet on the alternator nut but have not tried this with the Vette. This will require removing the plugs to see if any water comes out the plug holes.
4) Long shot: is this a stick shift car or an automatic? If this is a stick is the clutch disengaging?
. no flames (just my opinion and 2-cents). i'm not an advocate of rotating the engine using the center crank bolt WHILE the spark plugs are in place. as I recall, the bolt is torqued to 60 lb.ft. and one can easily over torque while fighting compression - not even factoring in any type of hydraulic lock. worst case scenario, a broken bolt head due to exceeding tensile and yield force limits of the bolt - now the fun begins. I've heard of this happening, but personally have never witnessed it - a sheared or broken bolt that is, but an over-torqued condition - yes, so take it FWIW. then again, there's always murphy's law, so to anyone going this route - i'd say, proceed with caution. 
Last edited by Joe C; Jan 1, 2019 at 07:13 AM.
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2018
Posts: 92
Likes: 13
From: Wadsworth, Ohio
a bolt, a breaker bar, and hydraulic lock - . no flames (just my opinion and 2-cents). i'm not an advocate of rotating the engine using the center crank bolt WHILE the spark plugs are in place. as I recall, the bolt is torqued to 60 lb.ft. and one can easily over torque while fighting compression - not even factoring in any type of hydraulic lock. worst case scenario, a broken bolt head due to exceeding tensile and yield force limits of the bolt - now the fun begins. I've heard of this happening, but personally have never witnessed it - a sheared or broken bolt that is, but an over-torqued condition - yes, so take it FWIW. then again, there's always murphy's law, so to anyone going this route - i'd say, proceed with caution.
. no flames (just my opinion and 2-cents). i'm not an advocate of rotating the engine using the center crank bolt WHILE the spark plugs are in place. as I recall, the bolt is torqued to 60 lb.ft. and one can easily over torque while fighting compression - not even factoring in any type of hydraulic lock. worst case scenario, a broken bolt head due to exceeding tensile and yield force limits of the bolt - now the fun begins. I've heard of this happening, but personally have never witnessed it - a sheared or broken bolt that is, but an over-torqued condition - yes, so take it FWIW. then again, there's always murphy's law, so to anyone going this route - i'd say, proceed with caution. I have done this before so far no broken bolts
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 11,470
Likes: 764
...will bar over using the crank bolt at a torque input value far less than the specified torque value for the bolt of 70 Ft Lbs. I've rotated hundreds and hundreds of different engines using the crank bolt. I've never broken or stripped one, but I have a good idea of when something "isn't right" and don't apply so much torque that damage occurs.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 19,220
Likes: 1,671
From: Long Island
Have someone hold the key in the start position and hit the starter with a bar or 10# rubber hammer. If it starts / turns over it's the starter.
Turn on the headlights - see if they dim when you try to start , the starter is pulling power. - attempting to turn. Check wires and battery. If they go out wiring is bad / battery is weak.
Turn on the headlights - see if they dim when you try to start , the starter is pulling power. - attempting to turn. Check wires and battery. If they go out wiring is bad / battery is weak.
Last edited by BLUE1972; Jan 1, 2019 at 09:27 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,751
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Hi
Is common for the starter solenoid needing a repair kit, there is a copper disc that makes contact it gets coated with bits of arc crap.
Eventually it gets so bad it insulates, you may notice needing to try starting a few times before the starter turns.
The click is the starter solenoid pulling in, if the power does not get transferred to the other bolt to the motor it wont turn.
You would hear the starter motor to make a noise ank and power dip if the motor is jammed from turning.
Use a socket on the crank bolt to see if you can turn the motor clockwise, if you can pull the starter and repair or replace it.
I use a mini gear reduction starter, they are light cheap and give more clearance.
Is common for the starter solenoid needing a repair kit, there is a copper disc that makes contact it gets coated with bits of arc crap.
Eventually it gets so bad it insulates, you may notice needing to try starting a few times before the starter turns.
The click is the starter solenoid pulling in, if the power does not get transferred to the other bolt to the motor it wont turn.
You would hear the starter motor to make a noise ank and power dip if the motor is jammed from turning.
Use a socket on the crank bolt to see if you can turn the motor clockwise, if you can pull the starter and repair or replace it.
I use a mini gear reduction starter, they are light cheap and give more clearance.