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Looking to Buy long tube headers for my 93. going with paint, not ceramic. I have narrowed my decision to these three brands, all $550 ish. IF you installed Headers on your C4 I'd like to hear your opinions, thanks for input. I realize there are better then these 3, but these are what fit into my budget, my car is just a cam only LT1 318whp that I use probably 50\50 track street. I have no plans on adding any other power adders in future. I have done some research and talking to others and these 3 brands all have a good fitment. Hopefully much better then my shorties that I have now. thanks for any input.
Hooker
OBX
MELROSE
Last edited by BLKMAMBA; Jan 7, 2019 at 03:13 PM.
Reason: Update
You didn't list the names of all 3 headers, but the middle one makes no attempt at being even close to having even length primaries which does make a difference if you're looking for the last hp. As Kyle mentioned, the ARH headers are one of the best. I found a .15 second difference between these and the Hooker Super Competition 2151 in the quarter. They are top dollar though, but you get what you pay for.
Is the graph showing the Cam and the headers or just the headers added to the engine? How much of an improvement over shorty headers are you expecting? I have not tried to use any headers on my 1988 C4 as I have the infamous L98 which needs way more than just headers to make any significant power.
On my 1968 C3 with it's 427 I have a set of long-tube Hedman Hedders that were very easy to install and they are still working 25+ years later. I did however make the mistake of getting the ceramic coated silver headers. The left side header started developing spots so Hedman sent me a new set. On the second set there was a slightly different bend that made putting it back on a bit tougher. After all these years the headers look like junk but they still work great and have developed no leaks over the time I have been using them. I wish they were black so I could break out the Bar-B-Que flat black paint and make them look like new again!
One lesson I learned from Hedman was that in engines where you are running High Compression (Over 12-1) they recommend that you get the coatings done with a higher temperature ceramic coating than the standard coating used. It seems that the first couple of inches of each pipe on my 12.25-1 compression ratio'd engine got so hot that the material starts to burn off or damaged. If you buy ceramic coated headers be sure that they have coated the interior of the pipes as well or you will not see much of a reduction of under-hood temperatures like they claim.
You showed several sets of headers there, which brand are they? The last one looks really nice and would improve virtually any engine compartment!
A major issue that you will face with steel headers (in our climate) is that you are going to be dealing with rust, especially since you said you are only driving it on weekends/pleasure trips. Ever watch all the water pouring out of an exhaust system from condensation ? It will be worse with plain steel and the moisture being sucked back in and sitting all week. You could have issues with rusting from the inside out. I dealt with rusting out headers on a RoadRunner I had back in the later '70's. If you experience this, then you are faced with buyer's regret ( :-) ) needing to get another set and end up spending the money anyways that you would if you had just bought a better set. The folks out in Arizona, California, parts of Texas et al just don't have the humidity issues this side of the country does.
There are options to being able to afford better ones. If you find the ones you want on eBay and apply for Paypal credit, you can get the payments spread out over 24 months. That is how I purchased the American Racing Headers with cats for my '96. It still allowed me to be able to continue acquiring the other parts I needed.
Did I say that this option is interest free ? As long as you can practice self discipline, the interest free deals that that Paypal credit offer allow you to get better parts.
I just missed one of their every once in a while deals. (the headers were the initial purchase where they extended the offer when I applied). Right before Christmas, eBay had an extra 15% off plus PPCredit had a 24 mos same as case if you spend over X-amount (I think the threshold was $600 and had to be bought on eBay).
I am going to use this option for a new set of heads the next time they send a 24 mos offer.
You didn't list the names of all 3 headers, but the middle one makes no attempt at being even close to having even length primaries which does make a difference if you're looking for the last hp. As Kyle mentioned, the ARH headers are one of the best. I found a .15 second difference between these and the Hooker Super Competition 2151 in the quarter. They are top dollar though, but you get what you pay for.
Is the graph showing the Cam and the headers or just the headers added to the engine? How much of an improvement over shorty headers are you expecting? I have not tried to use any headers on my 1988 C4 as I have the infamous L98 which needs way more than just headers to make any significant power.
On my 1968 C3 with it's 427 I have a set of long-tube Hedman Hedders that were very easy to install and they are still working 25+ years later. I did however make the mistake of getting the ceramic coated silver headers. The left side header started developing spots so Hedman sent me a new set. On the second set there was a slightly different bend that made putting it back on a bit tougher. After all these years the headers look like junk but they still work great and have developed no leaks over the time I have been using them. I wish they were black so I could break out the Bar-B-Que flat black paint and make them look like new again!
One lesson I learned from Hedman was that in engines where you are running High Compression (Over 12-1) they recommend that you get the coatings done with a higher temperature ceramic coating than the standard coating used. It seems that the first couple of inches of each pipe on my 12.25-1 compression ratio'd engine got so hot that the material starts to burn off or damaged. If you buy ceramic coated headers be sure that they have coated the interior of the pipes as well or you will not see much of a reduction of under-hood temperatures like they claim.
You showed several sets of headers there, which brand are they? The last one looks really nice and would improve virtually any engine compartment!
Good Luck and Keep on Winning in 2019!
Yea I updated post
Hooker
Obx
Melrose
Graph is my dyno .It's stock vs cam overlayed. I had dynoed before and after cam. Both runs have shorty headers. I'm not as concerned with hp gain on LT as much as better total system. Currently have cheap shortys that make it impossible to change plugs and stock cats X-PIPE with muffler deletes. I have a Borla cat back system to go on with new lt's .Eliminating cats
I agree with all you said completely. the car has just been cheap fun for me. really rather not cough up 1800 on headers. I may consider ceramic coating for additional $200. I did use that same logic however on purchasing stall converter, spend now and not buy better one later. thanks for input
You got ~50 hp from a CAM ONLY? Meaning...just a CAM swap? I'm asking b/c on the C6 forums "cam only" actually means:
cam
rockers
headers
exhaust
heads
intake
tune
stroker motor
supercharger
nitrous
twin turbos....
In seriousness though...I'm interested in what cam you chose that produced just under 50 hp. That is a fantastic gain for a ~$300 part.
Yes I got 50 hp from Cam. at cam swap I did 1.6 Lunati Voodoo RR, cam, springs, hardened pushrods and that is it. car was 1st dynoed (red line) with stall converter, shorty headers and resonator delete with Xpipe and muffler deletes, dyno results 268whp then re dynoed after cam swap and rr and 318whp (green Line) cam is a Lloyd Elliot custom grind. second video has cam specs.
car ran 14.2 @100 bone stock with 2.59 gear.
car ran 13.2@103 with stall converter, 3.54 gear and exhaust
car now runs 12.6@108
after cam-
Oh yes cam is $300 But.....
Roller rockers $340
push rods $125
springs $240
Rocker Studs $50
gaskets $100
I did oil pan gasket too
water pump $100
Dyno Tune $500
all labor done by me.
I would stay away from any brand painted steel header, Save your money & buy a good quality 304 stainless steel header ( like Kooks) & they will fit perfectly & last the life of your car....I understand the budget restraints, but you get what you pay for
Oh yes cam is $300 But.....
Roller rockers $340
push rods $125
springs $240
Rocker Studs $50
gaskets $100
I did oil pan gasket too
water pump $100
Dyno Tune $500
all labor done by me.
Where did you get your dyno tune...please tell me it was North of you
[QUOTE][ If you buy ceramic coated headers be sure that they have coated the interior of the pipes as well or you will not see much of a reduction of under-hood temperatures like they claim. /QUOTE]
Truth!! outside only is a waste
Lemons also custom fabs headers probably not up your alley. They arent cheap but will be perfect. Not sure if Stahl is still around?
Always wanted to make my own
Comment accurate on the "cam only" lsx stuff....I get a kick out of some mod lists, most arent .
Comment accurate on the "cam only" lsx stuff....I get a kick out of some mod lists, most arent .
Right? I MADE THAT POINT ONCE and basically got told that I'm a dumbass and it's "obvious" that you'd do (this big list of mods) with ANY cam swap. "Who would do JUST a cam!?"
Well, I did just a cam (and lifters) once and dropped a second off my 1/4 mile time. So I would. I was an idiot....apparently.
EDIT: Just going back and reading that thread pisses me off. I'm so glad that I'm not on the C6 part of the forums anymore.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jan 7, 2019 at 07:57 PM.
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