When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Think I know the thread you speak of. The boasting of hp and 1/4 mi times based on their phone or the web...power figures that seem to creep up every few months if not called out on it etc. Some dude was willing to drive hours to get a known fluffed dyno sheet yet refused to drive 5 miles to make a run down the track. I dont get it.
Why not just make your own sheet? Think Ill get one made with a rediculously low #.
A major issue that you will face with steel headers (in our climate) is that you are going to be dealing with rust, especially since you said you are only driving it on weekends/pleasure trips. Ever watch all the water pouring out of an exhaust system from condensation ? It will be worse with plain steel and the moisture being sucked back in and sitting all week. You could have issues with rusting from the inside out. I dealt with rusting out headers on a RoadRunner I had back in the later '70's. If you experience this, then you are faced with buyer's regret ( :-) ) needing to get another set and end up spending the money anyways that you would if you had just bought a better set. The folks out in Arizona, California, parts of Texas et al just don't have the humidity issues this side of the country does.
There are options to being able to afford better ones. If you find the ones you want on eBay and apply for Paypal credit, you can get the payments spread out over 24 months. That is how I purchased the American Racing Headers with cats for my '96. It still allowed me to be able to continue acquiring the other parts I needed.
Did I say that this option is interest free ? As long as you can practice self discipline, the interest free deals that that Paypal credit offer allow you to get better parts.
I just missed one of their every once in a while deals. (the headers were the initial purchase where they extended the offer when I applied). Right before Christmas, eBay had an extra 15% off plus PPCredit had a 24 mos same as case if you spend over X-amount (I think the threshold was $600 and had to be bought on eBay).
I am going to use this option for a new set of heads the next time they send a 24 mos offer.
That is 100% right. Another way is to save up and forget the instant gratification. If this is your only car and the only way to put food on the table, I understand. If not, either what you said or save up for something good. The alternative is to get something not good instantly and regret at leisure.
I have headman ceramic coated long tube headers, very happy with them and have a much cooler engine bay.
They didn't come with and oxygen sensor port for some strange reason, fitment is great and they still look good many years later.
My buddy has Hooker on his and sent me this message
I was told Hooker has the best fitment. I would invest in the caramic coating to keep heat down under the hood. I did a temp check myself. Non caramic 700-800 degrees; ceramic coated 300-400 degrees.
I have never had a wheel hop problem(stalled auto) run flats?
The C6 wheel hops like a ****. It's a very COMMON PROBLEM. And it has Run flats (stock) which make launching even harder. I was saying that those things, combined with TM, pretty much ensure that his car will not be a thread to yours in the first 60 or even 330'. Although if his is an auto that helps, some.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jan 8, 2019 at 10:30 AM.
Of those you listed, I use to have the Hooker Super Comps on my 84 back when it was a real street car and have a set on a friends 91 that I built a 383 SR combo for...... They fit well and I like them. The old school 3 bolt flanges for the exhaust hook up are not the best, espc on the drives side where the auto trans linkage is located (kinda tight)..... I would cut them off and use some ball flanges or a slip fit with band clamps.
Will
The C6 wheel hops like a ****. It's a very COMMON PROBLEM. And it has Run flats (stock) which make launching even harder. I was saying that those things, combined with TM, pretty much ensure that his car will not be a thread to yours in the first 60 or even 330'. Although if his is an auto that helps, some.
Yep. Mine was too. I couldn't get my C6 to 60' for love, nor money. Did you read the thread I linked above about my C6 at the track? Talk about frustrating.
Your 60 is fantastic.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jan 8, 2019 at 11:47 AM.
My car leaves pretty good for cheap 275 street tires.I am currently right now trying to figure out a wheel and tire (drag radial) combo for track days. due to D36 I don't want too big of DR, on good prepped track streets hook pretty good. I want dr for more consistency on not so great prep. cant decide if I want to go with 15x8 wheels with 255/60/15 mickeys. old 17" sawblades with 275/40/17 nitto. or even 15x8 with 245 nitto? need to find that perfect grip with grenading D36. I know the 255 mickeys hook great cause I had them on my 4th gen Camaro and it was 400whp with TH400 with 3800 stall and transbrake and it dead hooked. decisions??
Not sure, but that would be great. Its like 5+ miles from me, do you remember the name of the shop?
Yea, I was way off the mark. It's an import place so my bad on that. KMD tuning is the place and its actually in saddlebrook. Maybe check out the northeast section and see what people reccomend?
I am a big fan of Stainless Works headers. Have them on my ZR-1 with their high flow cats. Stainless Works sent them out for ceramic coating then sent to me.
