broken Dimmer Actuator Pivot
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
broken Dimmer Actuator Pivot
My new to me 1985 has a broken Dimmer Actuator Pivot in the steering column I bought the new part and have a service manual coming, bought a used one off ebay was wondering if this is a easy fix or should I seek professional help LOL, What specialty tools would be needed and any tips or even better a video showing how to would be helpful.
#2
Safety Car
This isn't too tough of a repair. You'll need a tool to remove the steering wheel and a tool to remove the steering column lock plate. These should be available to borrow from your favorite auto parts store.
1. Park the car with the steering wheel straight. (So you can put it back on straight.)
2. Carefully pry off the horn button. Disconnect the wire that clips to the bottom of the horn button.
3. Remove the telescoping adjuster from the center of the column, and install a 5/16"-18 UNC x 1" (SAE!) set screw in the center hole to lock the column in position. (Or make a tool by cutting the head off a 5/16"-18 bolt and putting a slot in the bolt. See photo.)
4. Remove the "C" ring on the center shaft, then loosen the center nut while holding the steering wheel rigid. Don't remove the nut, and don't put the wrench torque onto the steering wheel lock ring.
5. Use the steering wheel removing tool to pop the steering wheel loose from the splines, remove the tool, then remove the center nut. There is a big spring under the steering wheel.
6. Remove the three "bumper rings", put a mark on the top of the white insulator, then carefully pry the insulator from its "snap" fingers in the center of the insulator. Caution: This is a fragile part!
7. Put a mark on the top of the lock plate, and then use the lock plate removing tool to allow you to slide the big "C" ring from the center of the column.
8. After the lock plate is removed, mark the top of the white turn sig cam, and when the turn sig cancelling cam is removed, you'll finally find that one screw that retains the broken t/s lever!
9. Disconnect the cruise control connector under the dash and tie a string to that cable. (See photo.) The string will allow you to pull the cable on your new t/s lever down thru the column.
10. From here, you're on your own! Simple, huh?
Pivot Pin and Column Lock Tools
Cruise Control Connector
1. Park the car with the steering wheel straight. (So you can put it back on straight.)
2. Carefully pry off the horn button. Disconnect the wire that clips to the bottom of the horn button.
3. Remove the telescoping adjuster from the center of the column, and install a 5/16"-18 UNC x 1" (SAE!) set screw in the center hole to lock the column in position. (Or make a tool by cutting the head off a 5/16"-18 bolt and putting a slot in the bolt. See photo.)
4. Remove the "C" ring on the center shaft, then loosen the center nut while holding the steering wheel rigid. Don't remove the nut, and don't put the wrench torque onto the steering wheel lock ring.
5. Use the steering wheel removing tool to pop the steering wheel loose from the splines, remove the tool, then remove the center nut. There is a big spring under the steering wheel.
6. Remove the three "bumper rings", put a mark on the top of the white insulator, then carefully pry the insulator from its "snap" fingers in the center of the insulator. Caution: This is a fragile part!
7. Put a mark on the top of the lock plate, and then use the lock plate removing tool to allow you to slide the big "C" ring from the center of the column.
8. After the lock plate is removed, mark the top of the white turn sig cam, and when the turn sig cancelling cam is removed, you'll finally find that one screw that retains the broken t/s lever!
9. Disconnect the cruise control connector under the dash and tie a string to that cable. (See photo.) The string will allow you to pull the cable on your new t/s lever down thru the column.
10. From here, you're on your own! Simple, huh?
Pivot Pin and Column Lock Tools
Cruise Control Connector
Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; 01-22-2019 at 02:18 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Moved-To-TN (01-20-2019)
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
yea sounds like fun I had a problem with a steering column on a 89 GMC truck and took it in they only charged a hour labor I think I might do the same
#4
I'm quite sure I've mentioned 5/16-18 before - If I'm wrong I'd like to NOT do it again!
Last edited by WVZR-1; 01-20-2019 at 08:48 PM.
#5
Safety Car
(I fixed my blunder.)
Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; 01-22-2019 at 02:41 PM.
#6
Seems that the OP is maybe leaning towards a 'for hire' fix! Regardless 'for hire' OR DIY I believe I'd consider some additional 'plastics' that are in the upper column. OP is your manual a GM FSM or something other than?
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
yes I was thinking that while I or the shop was in there I would replace all parts of turn signal switch and maybe a new ignition switch and I have the 85 corvette shop manual ST-364-85 red cover on the way
#8
Safety Car
When I got into the C4 world (the first Chevy in my life!), I was under the impression this was GM's introduction into the "metric" world. I knew the basic engine was SAE, but if it wasn't threaded into the engine, the parts would likely be metric. So engine brackets were (are) a rather confusing mix of SAE and metric threads, but the rest of the car should be metric. Some SAE and metric threads are so close you've got to be very careful or you'll mess up something! That's why I used the word "quasi". When did GM compete this transition to metric (or have they)?
Quasi: Resembling or alike in certain characteristics or features. Adv. As if. Seemingly but not absolutely.
Quasi: Resembling or alike in certain characteristics or features. Adv. As if. Seemingly but not absolutely.