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i am sure it has been asked and answered before but i just looked for over a half hour to find old posts. does anyone know the stock cam specs for the 91 l 98?
looking at the spec there, maybe i should just consider a roller tipped rocker in 1.6 ratio for now, the motor only has 120k on it. i know these old l98 type engines will run upwards of 300 k easily if they are pretty much the same engine as the 93 silverado trucks have, i put 300 k on one of those and that thing ran like a champ till the day i sold it.. i have been looking at cam kits but i don't know how much i really want to spend in that area right now and where do you stop. if you go with a bigger cam then you run into head flow issues and so on. then if i am thinking of spending a couple grand for a good set of heads, why stop there because the top end will grenade the lower end.
how big of a cam can you run with the stock aluminum heads without getting in trouble with valve lift i was looking at the lunati voodoo kit,
Lunati Voodoo Cam and Lifter Kits 20080721LK.
anyone ever use that cam with stock heads and valvetrain?
I have attached some more cam information from the web page I linked, the TPIS ZZ9 or the GM ZZ3 cams are a good match to a stock TPI. The Lunati cam is not a good match, too much duration for the stock TPI, will not operate as well as the samller cams without changing the intake for a higher performance design (Shorter runner).
The stock heads are good to around .480 lift, I have been told, never checked that myself. If you need more lift you may be able to use .050 higher installed height valve keepers to get you to .530 lift range. As noted I have not checked this and this would need to be checked.
If you change the cam you will also need a tune for it to operate correctly, I am not sure if this is the direction you want to go. Put together your desired goal both performance and cost and then see what meets your goal.
oh, i forgot to mention, this car was already converted and hacked up to a carb, intake hei set up due to a fire, before i got it. i bought it as in condition for a great deal. now i am trying to make the most of what it is. and by hacked up i mean a nasty hole cut in the hood and everything. its not even a good circle cut hahaha. but oh well. for 500 bucks i won't complain.. much lol as of now i am planning on it being a edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake with a mechanical holly 650 carb. maybe 750 since i plan on some day building the old 1970 air boat 400 engine i have had tucked away in the garage for something special. just not sure if i really wanna go there with this year /make car.
so 480 lift i think maybe the 1.6 rockers would be a good choice then for now. keep it cheap and simple until i really want to build and engine properly for the car, i really do want the sound of a really nice cam though.but at the same time, for now. the money for a cam would about buy the carb/intake which is really needed since the guy put a toker 2 intake. good for like 4000-7000 rpm range. worthless for what i will be doing and then they tightened the cartb down until it cracked both front corners... so ya carb/intake are my first plans
Last edited by bud40oz; Feb 5, 2019 at 09:43 AM.
Reason: add info
i am sure it has been asked and answered before but i just looked for over a half hour to find old posts. does anyone know the stock cam specs for the 91 l 98?
it may be obvious to some, but not sure anyone answered the OP's original question. using the 90-91 L98 cam's part number (10111773) for a stock engine, the specs would be as shown in the above cam chart. the chart only ID's model year 90-92, but does not ID the engine family. in this case the L98 -
I would not jump up to the 1.6 rockers now unless the heads are currently off the engine or will be before it's running. The pushrod holes may need to be opened to prevent binding, you cannot easily drill them out without having that metal get in the engine.
I would not jump up to the 1.6 rockers now unless the heads are currently off the engine or will be before it's running. The pushrod holes may need to be opened to prevent binding, you cannot easily drill them out without having that metal get in the engine.
The pushrod holes on the alum heads are round and the rockers are self aligning, no drilling required, put on the new rockers and call it a day.
