Clutch and FW question.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,010
Likes: 1
From: Sweden/Stockholm
Clutch and FW question.
When having the FW machined down, lets say around 1mm. Do you have to make a longer rod on the slave cylinder in order to compensate for that 1mm that you took of?
The probleme is that after I hade the FW machined about 1mm, I developed a strange sound.
The sound comes from the slave cylinder area, its a clicking sound that you can hear when you brake hard, or turn hard, like something is loose.
And if I gently touch the clutch pedal, bearly touch it, the sound dissaper. and this is ONLY when the car gets hot. I guess that when the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch fluid is cold its more "solid" then when its hot?!.
So could that be the 1mm play that I have in my clutch system that couse this sound? Or could it be the clutch fork/clutch fork ball that is wear out?
Thanks..
The probleme is that after I hade the FW machined about 1mm, I developed a strange sound.
The sound comes from the slave cylinder area, its a clicking sound that you can hear when you brake hard, or turn hard, like something is loose.
And if I gently touch the clutch pedal, bearly touch it, the sound dissaper. and this is ONLY when the car gets hot. I guess that when the clutch slave cylinder and the clutch fluid is cold its more "solid" then when its hot?!.
So could that be the 1mm play that I have in my clutch system that couse this sound? Or could it be the clutch fork/clutch fork ball that is wear out?
Thanks..
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Re: Clutch and FW question. (devilfish)
1st off, you should NOT machine the dual mass flywheel.
the lubricants will eat up the rubber between the 2 masses. that is real bad.
scuffing is ok.
as to answer you question, normally no... 1mm would not make any difference. you see, the entire surface is machined, moving the entire assembly 1mm closer, the master/slave is more than able to make up the difference.
but considering you are not supposed to machine the dual mass, they may have never taken that into consideration.
I assume you had new fluid put in the master/slave? it might be low.
[Modified by bogus, 11:36 AM 11/3/2002]
the lubricants will eat up the rubber between the 2 masses. that is real bad.
scuffing is ok.
as to answer you question, normally no... 1mm would not make any difference. you see, the entire surface is machined, moving the entire assembly 1mm closer, the master/slave is more than able to make up the difference.
but considering you are not supposed to machine the dual mass, they may have never taken that into consideration.
I assume you had new fluid put in the master/slave? it might be low.
[Modified by bogus, 11:36 AM 11/3/2002]
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,010
Likes: 1
From: Sweden/Stockholm
Re: Clutch and FW question. (bogus)
Well the shop did know about the "rubber between the 2 masses", so they used a special fluid, at least that what they told me :)
2 more questions.
Could it just be that my slave cylinder is bad? And when it gets hot just cant hold the pressure, allowing the slave cylinder pin to be "loose" and not pressed againts the clutch fork?
Or could I have setup the cluthfork wrong? The clutch fork just "slides" in over the Rbearing right?
its strange how this sound is related to heat. When its cold no probleme, and when its hot I got the click sound.
And if I just touch the pedal, I put som pressure on the slave cylinder the sound stops...?
Thanks for your feedback :)
2 more questions.
Could it just be that my slave cylinder is bad? And when it gets hot just cant hold the pressure, allowing the slave cylinder pin to be "loose" and not pressed againts the clutch fork?
Or could I have setup the cluthfork wrong? The clutch fork just "slides" in over the Rbearing right?
its strange how this sound is related to heat. When its cold no probleme, and when its hot I got the click sound.
And if I just touch the pedal, I put som pressure on the slave cylinder the sound stops...?
Thanks for your feedback :)
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
Re: Clutch and FW question. (devilfish)
I have heard of the special fluids... I think they are water based...
thats cool you have such savvy shops in Sweden!!! I wish we did here in the states!!!!!
I cannot wrap my arms around the heat issue. that is troubling. unless heat soak is getting to the slave...
that would lead me back to icky fluid.
take the cover off the master and see how the fluid looks... clear? cloudy? icky? low?
if its dark, take a rag, dunk it in and suck up the fluid in the resevior... and add some fresh. I would suggest adding Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid. That is nice stuff.
if you have access, get a pheonix injector. It allows for the addition of fluid from the bottom. these master/slaves are real buggers to bleed. you don't want to drain and refill, you will never get all the bubbles out. the injector is attached to the bleed screw, open screw, remove cover on master, and start pumping uphill.
I would drain out the master, start pumping up until clear....
that should clean that out.
from GM, you get the entire assembly. pre-assembled, pre-bled, ready to install and use.
[Modified by bogus, 9:04 AM 11/4/2002]
thats cool you have such savvy shops in Sweden!!! I wish we did here in the states!!!!!
I cannot wrap my arms around the heat issue. that is troubling. unless heat soak is getting to the slave...
that would lead me back to icky fluid.
take the cover off the master and see how the fluid looks... clear? cloudy? icky? low?
if its dark, take a rag, dunk it in and suck up the fluid in the resevior... and add some fresh. I would suggest adding Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid. That is nice stuff.
if you have access, get a pheonix injector. It allows for the addition of fluid from the bottom. these master/slaves are real buggers to bleed. you don't want to drain and refill, you will never get all the bubbles out. the injector is attached to the bleed screw, open screw, remove cover on master, and start pumping uphill.
I would drain out the master, start pumping up until clear....
that should clean that out.
from GM, you get the entire assembly. pre-assembled, pre-bled, ready to install and use.
[Modified by bogus, 9:04 AM 11/4/2002]
