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How do I go about disabling the vat system on my 1995 corvette so I can use a reg.key or can I just put another ing switch in it?
Where are you located?
Do you know for a 'fact' that it's not already defeated?
I'd consider this 'first'!
Take your VIN, registration or insurance card(generally accepted) and ID to a GM Dealer and they can get the 'original' recorded key information (mechanical only) and have them cut that on a 'WORK KEY' blank. If that rotates the ignition you're part way there. They can also do the door key. For VATS you'll need a locksmith or shop with a VATS Interrogator to sort the resistance required. Then you'll need to just purchase a correct key with resistance.
There's DIY procedures for using variable rate 'adjustable' potentiometer to do similar. Most use a 10K that will actually do all except a #15 VATS. I have an Interrogator and have never tried the DIY procedures.
I believe that in a 95 the VATs system can be disabled in the ecm in the car. Once that's disabled then you should be able to use any key. Same thing if you know the resistor value on the key, you can get a dongle that substitutes for the resistor on the key and again you can use a key with any resistor value if any.
What I don't know is if there's an ignition switch that will fit the column that doesn't have provisions for the resistor on it.
Dealer may still have access to key codes 1995 is getting where GM could purge them out. GM has some rules about codes, picture ID and proof of ownership normally required. Dealer may have additional so call first. GM provides original key codes including vats blank. If ignition cylinder was changed key code won't work. VATS is normally unchanged. Get non VATS key to be sure it will turn before buying VATS. Key doesn't work you will need cylinder. DIY or even interrogator takes a minimum of 3 mins between each failed try so with 15 possible keys could take a while. There is a 3 min timer 2 min 55 secs resets 3 min time out so you might wait 4 minutes. VATS key code will have a resistance value. You can try to find correct resistor and wire it in.
I hope that you know that key replacement is something stuck into lots of car insurance policies. My wife washed her 2019 VW key and it was EXPENSIVE but the insurance paid all of it. Check with your agent before putting out lots of cash!
By the way,
Welcome to the Corvette Forum!! You are in the right place is you have questions about America's best Sports car!
Same. I'm absent-minded as all get out and within a day of getting mine became paranoid about "what if I drop these keys down a sewer grate?"
When I called the local Chevy dealer they were able to look up the VATS code using the VIN over the phone, get the blanks with the right resistor code in a couple days and cut 'em on the spot for me so I could make sure they worked. Of course, having the keys made that situation a lot easier since they didn't ask for proof of ownership and so on. However, I did have to put a deposit down for the blanks, so if they were able to order some for you...and your VATS turned out to be modified/defeated/changed somehow...then that might be money down the drain. Seems unlikely, though.
Mine is a '96, and that was last fall, so hopefully they still have the '95 records and can just look it up for you.
When I bought my 91 seller only had one set (ignition and door). Local locksmith had ability and equipment to read key and had blanks with different variables so since he had 2 ignition blanks with my resistance I had them cut both for me with two door keys so now I'm the proud owner of 3 sets of keys.
At times I think VATS was designedby LUCAS (THE Prince of Darkness) or some other entity who wishes ill on the folks who like Corvettes!
On my 1968 Corvette when I bought it there were two ignition keys and no door lock keys. I went to a local Locksmith and he made me one key that unlocks the doors and is used in the ignition. Now I have one key to worry about loosing Since my 1968 is a rag top I don't drive it unless the weather is cooperating and there is no rain forecast. So naturally I leave the top down when I am inside shopping or whatever. Why lock a Convertible?
I installed an aftermarket alarm system that used a motion sensor on the center of my E-brake cover to look for someone reaching into the open car. That was effective keeping people away but made too much noise. It seemed harder to remove the system from the car as it had tentacles everywhere.
At times I think VATS was designedby LUCAS (THE Prince of Darkness) or some other entity who wishes ill on the folks who like Corvettes!
On my 1968 Corvette when I bought it there were two ignition keys and no door lock keys. I went to a local Locksmith and he made me one key that unlocks the doors and is used in the ignition. Now I have one key to worry about loosing Since my 1968 is a rag top I don't drive it unless the weather is cooperating and there is no rain forecast. So naturally I leave the top down when I am inside shopping or whatever. Why lock a Convertible?
I installed an aftermarket alarm system that used a motion sensor on the center of my E-brake cover to look for someone reaching into the open car. That was effective keeping people away but made too much noise. It seemed harder to remove the system from the car as it had tentacles everywhere.
Have a awesome day!
Chris
I would love to know more about both having a single key, and that aftermarket alarm system. I have a hardtop but I leave the top down often and usually just lock my storage bins-but if I were shopping I'd want to alarm if someone started to mess around with it.
Most reputable lock smiths will have the ability to cut and program any vehicle key these days. If you need a reference, call a local car dealer, or repo company and they will have the person on speed dial they use.
The guy we use for our cars generally charges about $175.00, sometimes it is much more but that is more on the reprogram keys when he has to pay the franchise fee and that gets passed on.
No issues with the VAT I just figured it would be easier to put a reg.switch with a non chipped key that's all
Not sure it is worth the effort to do it right. Your call. I'd do it if I had enough issues but if it wasn't for accident, my 91 F-body would probably be working as my 92 Corvette is. I'd have a 2ns key made and hidden in the car somewhere.
What's with all the exclamation points? Sheese. I'll PM you my phone number if you want and you can chew my *** out that way. Maybe you'd feel better if you could actually yell at me? You are kind of a dick; this is typical of your responses to me.
I had an 88 that I distinctly remember had an "05" on the shank, and that that WAS the resistance. I bought the car in 95, it was a bank repo, perhaps it wasn't an OEM key. But I really don't give a **** if it was or wasn't. Nor do I care if OEM keys do or don't have the code. You figure it out if its so important to you. It's not to me.
You being the 'self proclaimed' NCRS GUY who knows nearly ALL - I'd guess there's likely points for having a 'stamped' blade but missing only the 'knock-out'. Is that correct?
The guy we use for our cars generally charges about $175.00, sometimes it is much more but that is more on the reprogram keys when he has to pay the franchise fee and that gets passed on.
Wow, that seems like a very high cost for just reading and cutting new keys. For two more sets (ignition and door) for my 91 the locksmith I went to charged around $40 to $45 total to read and cut the new blanks.