Transmission filter change
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Safety Car
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From: LeClaire Iowa
OP - since you're waiting for bolts how about confirming for others (I have no interest) the actual capacity of the pan. A person knowing the capacity of the pan might be able to better assume what they've pumped from the tube. Did you find an obstruction that kept the pumping device from pan bottom? You could save many your aggravation likely.
**I believe there's 'stop' on the valve body that the stick hits on most 4L60E because of various installs including maybe the early 'other than C4' applications.
GM # 8684890 I'm quite sure is used in the C4 -4L60E
You did use a 'genuine' GM/ACD filter?
**I believe there's 'stop' on the valve body that the stick hits on most 4L60E because of various installs including maybe the early 'other than C4' applications.
GM # 8684890 I'm quite sure is used in the C4 -4L60E
You did use a 'genuine' GM/ACD filter?
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I don't believe it's important to attempt to bypass it so long as a '94+ owner expects something near 3 QTS of fluid likely in the pan that will need the 'DUMP'. Pump before the pull and DUMP certainly keeps the job less of a nuisance.
Thread Starter
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From: LeClaire Iowa
Ok, I have an update that might help someone. My 1/2" hose from my pump would not go past the dipstick stop. I went and bought some 1/4" clear tube that fit right inside the 1/2" tube. It still would not go past the stop until I cut the end at a 45 degree angle. Now it slides right by. If I want in the future I can easily suck out 3 quart and replace.
Thread Starter
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From: LeClaire Iowa
Did anyone else notice that the end of the tube aligns perfectly with the COLD/FULL level on the dipstick? So if overfilled, suck on the tube itself and flow will cease when the level reaches the bottom of the tube and it sucks air.
EDIT II: I have a better thought: It is to prevent service personnel "flush equipment" from being inserted into the tube and knocking the filter/pickup out of the pump snout. Because the pan isn't removed during a "flush", a dislodged filter wouldn't be detected until the trans was burned up. Dan: take a look after the filter is installed. I'm pretty sure the forward corner of the filter is under the filler pipe. You should evaluate whether removing the stop, or even your tapered 1/4" tube will get to the bottom with the filter installed.
Cheers
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Melting Slicks
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From: Greater Cincinnati Area.
The pan retains the filter, which is why it is important not to commingle the shallow and deep pan varieties of filters. While it is impossible to put a deep pan filter in a shallow E pan, you can do the reverse and potentially damage the unit.
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From: LeClaire Iowa
ihatebarkingdogs-I think with a 1/4" clear tube with a 45 deg cut on the end would be impossible to put any force on the filter. I just spin it around until the 45 deg cut is in the right place and it slides right down without any force whatsoever.
Turtle96-- I received the new bolts and as you said they are different. The washer is like WAY more cupped than my 23 year old ones. Maybe the FSM knows something after all. I can't comment if they torque any different as I have never tried to torque any 23 year old ones.
Thanks again for all your help!! Dan
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Thread has been quite informative for '94+ 4L60e owners. This snapshot maybe more so. I and no one else ever commented about the fluid! You mentioned I believe flushed last year and the fluid I'd say was certainly 'pretty'. I had meant to mention this much earlier in your thread. New hardware is certainly a positive experience from time to time. Trans service seems to one of those. The newer hardware I do believe is different from OE original production. Engineering experience by GM/OE. Did RA supply ACD product?
Melting Slicks
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I would like to know what that stop is for. I can only speculate about it, though. A bunch of units come in without it and they are fine.
You can't knock the filter loose with the dipstick. You probably can't rotate the solenoid enough to interfere with it either, because the harness isn't long enough. (Although that would be a good reason for its existence.) The TC solenoid wires aren't long enough to tangle in it either.
It seems to show up on the later units here, with cupped ends on the tube.
Maybe they were concerned the cup would catch on something, like the edge of the VB and bend or break it? Maybe they don't want you "splashing" the fat, rounded, end in the pan upon insertion and giving a false reading?
We never buy new bolts here, and torque them to about 110 in lbs. If you have to really lay into a pan bolt to get it to seal, the pan probably has a damaged rail. No retorque is required on the farpack gaskets, or the rubber aftermarket ones. (Which seem to hold up pretty well.
Cork will compress, and you snug them in a month or so and they're good after that.
You can't knock the filter loose with the dipstick. You probably can't rotate the solenoid enough to interfere with it either, because the harness isn't long enough. (Although that would be a good reason for its existence.) The TC solenoid wires aren't long enough to tangle in it either.
It seems to show up on the later units here, with cupped ends on the tube.
Maybe they were concerned the cup would catch on something, like the edge of the VB and bend or break it? Maybe they don't want you "splashing" the fat, rounded, end in the pan upon insertion and giving a false reading?
We never buy new bolts here, and torque them to about 110 in lbs. If you have to really lay into a pan bolt to get it to seal, the pan probably has a damaged rail. No retorque is required on the farpack gaskets, or the rubber aftermarket ones. (Which seem to hold up pretty well.
Cork will compress, and you snug them in a month or so and they're good after that.
Last edited by confab; Apr 7, 2019 at 02:13 PM.
Thread Starter
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From: LeClaire Iowa
For some reason Rock Auto did not show the correct AC Delco filter. I ordered from Ecklers. Genuine AC Delco. Confab- I torqued the new bolts to 100 ft lbs. I am glad I went to Autozone and borrowed a good quality in-lb torque wrench. I checked it against my bar type and it seemed calibrated, but the tightness of the bolts seemed more than I would have done by the seat of the pants. The FSM manual says 96 in lbs. WVZR-1 You seem to be correct about the new filters. The filter media does NOT seem the same as the one from 1996 (which I tore open but is seemed very clean). The new one seems denser. I did have it flushed by a dealership a year ago. They do not do the filter. I just wanted to see inside and change the filter. One kinda weird thing is while my pan never leaked a drop the bolts were not much more than hand tight. Confab-- I think the stop is for an exact point for the dipstick to go in so the depth in the pan is not set by the plastic handle of the dipstick. Just my guess. Thanks all, Dan
Last edited by Whaleman; Apr 7, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2017
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From: LeClaire Iowa