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I'm elbow deep into a bushing update, and when I got the first rear corner apart, one look at the driveshaft tells me I should do U-Joints while I have the thing apart. I want to keep this work rolling, has anyone had luck with any of the part store u-joints that I could pick up in the morning, instead of waiting a few days for a package of the Spicers to be delivered? It seems, if Rock Auto is correct, Moog 231 should be a cross fit? If not, does anyone have updated Spicer numbers, or do they even make parts anymore? All the threads I see in reference to them are older, but they do occasionally popup on the box chain sites, just with different part numbers than I'd expect.
Also, any reason to think that if there is no play in the wheel bearing, that it would need to be replaced? I'm definitely in a do-it-all-now mood, if there is any likelihood of it needing fixed int he near future.
….. The driveshaft u-joints are 1310's … smaller than the half shaft joints @ 1350's … If you're beating on the car , stick with Spicer non-greaseable joints ….. I get mine from Denny's Driveshafts 5-1350X - kit … set of 4 for $68 plus shipping ….. free shipping if you spend $99 or more …..
….. The driveshaft u-joints are 1310's … smaller than the half shaft joints @ 1350's … If you're beating on the car , stick with Spicer non-greaseable joints …..
this.
however, I put moogs on mine and have no issues. I daily drive the thing like a grandmother though.
….. The driveshaft u-joints are 1310's … smaller than the half shaft joints @ 1350's … If you're beating on the car , stick with Spicer non-greaseable joints ….. I get mine from Denny's Driveshafts 5-1350X - kit … set of 4 for $68 plus shipping ….. free shipping if you spend $99 or more …..
I agree. I think that if you need them quickly and you can find Moogs locally (without grease fittings), then those will be a good second-tier option. I did not have good luck with a house-brand of u-joint that I installed on an urgent-need basis. I autocross too, and we have to remember that these halfshafts double as our rear upper control arms. They take serious cornering loads. These joints are one area where quality really matters.
I also agree that if you don't have play in the rear wheel bearings, don't replace them. Any new bearing you get will be Chinese garbage, regardless of the name on the box. If you have OE bearings still in there, they are likely to outlast whatever you'd replace them with. Again, I have found that autocross use does tend to thrash rear bearings. But I don't have any good solutions for better parts in the rear. They would be hard to change at an autocross site, but they aren't as hard to change in a garage as people make them out to be. You just need the proper torx bit and a long extension. Check them often, and replace only if/when they start to get sloppy. In the meantime, if you can find some that are verifiably made-in-US, snag them and keep on the shelf.
I’ll go ahead and add that the rear wheel bearings are cake. Took an hour with my buddy. Some tight spaces but nothing you can’t handle. Don’t have to remove much either. Basically just the wheel hub.
U joints were easy to get out but putting it back in myself proved challenging
There's apparently a drivetrain specialist place on the other side of town that carries the Spicers, so I'll just get both sides ripped apart this weekend, everything cleaned up and all the bushings done, and then grab those Monday.
….. The driveshaft u-joints are 1310's … smaller than the half shaft joints @ 1350's … If you're beating on the car , stick with Spicer non-greaseable joints ….. I get mine from Denny's Driveshafts 5-1350X - kit … set of 4 for $68 plus shipping ….. free shipping if you spend $99 or more …..