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Just received my Opti from the Optidoc (Brad). I'll update after I have some free time to install it, but it looks solid. He even included a new vent kit, which I wasn't expecting, but sure am happy about.
A friend of mine just had a similar experience for his 95 with Optidoc. He installs it this weekend, but we already know it works because he got the video of the test.
For some of you that have had this done, is the rebuild cost a set amount or does it vary based on the condition of the opti? My OEM opti was functioning fine when I removed it last year, but I thought about having it refreshed and keep it as a reserve unit.
When I pulled my Opti, it was a reman, so I just went ahead and paid for one of his already reconditioned units. I believe he charges a flat rate on his service of reconditioning your own Opti.
For some of you that have had this done, is the rebuild cost a set amount or does it vary based on the condition of the opti? My OEM opti was functioning fine when I removed it last year, but I thought about having it refreshed and keep it as a reserve unit.
Yes Its a set price, but he has options like Ranger mentioned
Sorry for the delay, I thought I could just go to Auto Zone, Pep Boys, Advanced, etc and the two hoses that go to heater core to the water pump. Crazy me in thinking they could even find them in the computer. I ordered them from Zip, got them yesterday and installed today. The car fired right yup and honestly idles better than it has before. Not that I ever felt it was bad, but it sounds better and is definitely more responsive. Is it the new plug wires, the Opti, the mental case of me? Don't know, but it runs nice. The car isn't overheating even after running for 30 minutes in my driveway, but the low coolant light is on. I am hoping it's just air in the system and the light will go off after bleeding and topping off during the next bunch of heat cycles. So far, I give Brad an A+.
Update, car is still running great! The low coolant light went off the next morning,
I assume the computer saw too great a difference in temps at different locations and assumed the coolant was low. Once the air was purged, all was well. I've shifted it a bunch of times at around 6100 rpm with no issues. Great job Brad.
Last edited by Ranger72; May 27, 2019 at 01:30 PM.
If yours is like my 86, the low coolant sensor is in the radiator. You would find it there about 2"-3" below the radiator filler cap on the passenger side, it's got a green wire on it.
The easiest way I've found to fully fill the cooling system is: take an old antifreeze jug and cut off the bottom to act like a funnel. Duct tape it to the fill neck (cap off). start the car and let it run till the thermostat opens and the coolant level in the radiator will drop a couple of inches. Fill it to the neck with antifreeze, pull off the funnel jug and put the cap on the radiator with the engine still running. All done.
Till doing that, the low coolant light would come and go at times. This resolved it.
I'm about to go for my first opti. I guess wire, plugs, water pump are in order while all this is apart. 93 LT1-55k on it. I think it got wet when changing all my hoses and was back firing under light load.
OptiDoc. Thumbs up
