1989 Corvette Wiring ?
#1
1989 Corvette Wiring ?
Two chewed wires. Looks like a sensor or something.
Ok guys I’m new here, so hello. I’m trying to help an older man fix his corvette after some rats got ahold of it. It’s a 1989 corvette not sure on the exacts as I’m not real savvy on the corvette area. Can anyone tell me what these are?
Last edited by aweiss1991; 04-23-2019 at 12:04 PM.
#4
Safety Car
After seeing those injector wires for cylinders #6 and #8 I too would be very careful about starting that car up. The sensor on the left side of the picture is the EGR temp Sensor and is a single wire coming out of the sensor.
If you don't mind an idea try this one. Pull the fuses and then connect the car's Starting and Ignition battery and check each circuit individually for shorts or "strange" resistance values. You can use a good Volt Ohm meter or the current measuring fuse adapter from Harbor Freight. Check everything to be sure there are no major shorts that could start a fire. The cars primary power goes through a post under and behind the battery towards the drivers door. That is where the Fusible Links get their (12 Vdc) power to send to the fuses on the dashboard end and under the front center panel of the dashboard. If the post has rust or any corrosion on it be sure to clean them up or you will not have full battery voltage at the fuses. If a fusible link burns they don't always break thru to the out side, it is good to use pins and test them carefully to ensure that they are still functional.
This is the Harbor Freight tool that I use, I have one 20-amp and one 30-amp and they cost about $14 each, they are a very handy tool when working on a car with electrical gremlins. They are accurate enough until I break out the expensive multimeter.
My car must have had mice trying to live in it as when I took the dashboard out of the car I found a dried out 30" snake skin in my air vent tubing, black snakes LOVE those furry little critters. I am however glad he/she moved out after them. The idea of a snake in the dashboard is not a cool one with me.
I hope you get lucky on that one!
P.S. Sorry, I still have not figured out how to size imported pictures. At least you get a good view of the device!
If you don't mind an idea try this one. Pull the fuses and then connect the car's Starting and Ignition battery and check each circuit individually for shorts or "strange" resistance values. You can use a good Volt Ohm meter or the current measuring fuse adapter from Harbor Freight. Check everything to be sure there are no major shorts that could start a fire. The cars primary power goes through a post under and behind the battery towards the drivers door. That is where the Fusible Links get their (12 Vdc) power to send to the fuses on the dashboard end and under the front center panel of the dashboard. If the post has rust or any corrosion on it be sure to clean them up or you will not have full battery voltage at the fuses. If a fusible link burns they don't always break thru to the out side, it is good to use pins and test them carefully to ensure that they are still functional.
This is the Harbor Freight tool that I use, I have one 20-amp and one 30-amp and they cost about $14 each, they are a very handy tool when working on a car with electrical gremlins. They are accurate enough until I break out the expensive multimeter.
My car must have had mice trying to live in it as when I took the dashboard out of the car I found a dried out 30" snake skin in my air vent tubing, black snakes LOVE those furry little critters. I am however glad he/she moved out after them. The idea of a snake in the dashboard is not a cool one with me.
I hope you get lucky on that one!
P.S. Sorry, I still have not figured out how to size imported pictures. At least you get a good view of the device!
#5
Thanks guys. I was thinking they might have something to do with the fuel system, but I was not real sure, as I am not real sharp on these newer model engines. I will let him know and hopefully he can get it fixed. Unfortunately, he called me and told me he jumped it and got it running and took it for a spin. I am not sure how that went for him being that he was probably not getting full fuel with those two injectors down for those cylinders. Ctmccloskey I am going to have to get me a couple of those little things from my local Harbor freight.
#6
Safety Car
aweiss1991
That is very kind of you to help the older gentleman with his Corvette! I can't imagine that it ran very well like that, maybe it was before the mouse attack! There would have been a serious loss of power with two dead cylinders.
Testing and working on these older Corvettes is fun but demands a good working knowledge of electricity and some electronics to dig deep into the control system. It would be incredibly helpful if you had access to a copy of the Factory Service Manual for that particular year Corvette as they have the testing procedures and repair help as well. Another tool that might save you a lot of time would be a fuel pressure tester, they are not cheap but less than $40 or so online. The fuel pressure is vital to this Corvette running properly. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail on the passengers side near the distributor that the gauge connects to. When the car is off and you turn the key to the run position the fuel system will prime the system so the injectors all have fuel, the priming is usually a short 2-3 seconds or so but can take longer. The injector wiring harness' might be replaceable at FIC or someplace that sells or rebuilds fuel injectors. You should see around 42 psi on the gauge if all is working still with the engine primed but not running.
Those injector wires should be taped or covered. One side of the injector harness is 12 Vdc when the engine is on all the time, the ground wire is the one that activates the injector when the ECM tells it to, it "Pulls" it to ground closing the circuit and making the injector "inject". No more confusing the poster.
Good Luck and if you have any questions we are here to help. Welcome to the Corvette Forum! We are glad you are here!
Best regards,
Chris
That is very kind of you to help the older gentleman with his Corvette! I can't imagine that it ran very well like that, maybe it was before the mouse attack! There would have been a serious loss of power with two dead cylinders.
Testing and working on these older Corvettes is fun but demands a good working knowledge of electricity and some electronics to dig deep into the control system. It would be incredibly helpful if you had access to a copy of the Factory Service Manual for that particular year Corvette as they have the testing procedures and repair help as well. Another tool that might save you a lot of time would be a fuel pressure tester, they are not cheap but less than $40 or so online. The fuel pressure is vital to this Corvette running properly. There is a schrader valve on the fuel rail on the passengers side near the distributor that the gauge connects to. When the car is off and you turn the key to the run position the fuel system will prime the system so the injectors all have fuel, the priming is usually a short 2-3 seconds or so but can take longer. The injector wiring harness' might be replaceable at FIC or someplace that sells or rebuilds fuel injectors. You should see around 42 psi on the gauge if all is working still with the engine primed but not running.
Those injector wires should be taped or covered. One side of the injector harness is 12 Vdc when the engine is on all the time, the ground wire is the one that activates the injector when the ECM tells it to, it "Pulls" it to ground closing the circuit and making the injector "inject". No more confusing the poster.
Good Luck and if you have any questions we are here to help. Welcome to the Corvette Forum! We are glad you are here!
Best regards,
Chris
#7
Harbor Freight has a fuel pressure test kit for $20.00. I picked one up for my '89 and it was a huge help in diagnosing a bad fuel pressure regulator. It's not super high quality, but it gets the job done. See link below ...
Fuel Pressure Test Kit
Fuel Pressure Test Kit
Last edited by 28uniflite; 04-24-2019 at 01:15 PM.