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I will be rebuilding the transmission on my 95 in a few months. The engine is stock right now. I will probably be doing a cam change next winter, going the hot cam route or something similar. Not much more than stock , just something to add a little pep.
Anyway, would anybody have a recommendation for a torque converter? Something that's good for a stock LT1 and can still be used with a mild cam upgrade.
Thank you
Chad
Car should've come with a 2200-2400 TC, and I'd recommend 2400 max for daily driving and regular street use. PI Vigilante, Yank, and there are several others.
I had a Yank 3000 put in in my ‘95 coupe when my tranny took a dump. Had a 4L60E built by Performabuilt Transmissions in Pa. No issues doesn’t miss a beat. The other thing I learned when I purchased the Yank converter is that if you read the fine print on the Yank installation instructions you will see that if you don’t use Dextron III trans fluid with the install it will void the torque converter warranty.
Last edited by Turbo Bob; Jul 21, 2019 at 09:06 AM.
Car should've come with a 2200-2400 TC, and I'd recommend 2400 max for daily driving and regular street use. PI Vigilante, Yank, and there are several others.
If you were racing, probably 2600-2800.
..... … I have used both Yank and Precision Industries Vigilante (currently) … great converters … call them and ask for their guidance on stall speed … Vigilante offers a free re-stall in case you don't like the 1st choice …..
I went with a Yank SS 3200 and have really enjoyed it. I did find it necessary to mount a B&M trans fluid cooler in front of the AC condenser and it really does the job.
I went with a Protorque 2800 in my 93, love it. had a Protorque 3800 in my 4th gen Camaro. great converters and much cheaper than a Yank. 2800 will allow you to stay with stock diameter converter. any higher stall jumps you to a 9 1/2" billet converter at double the price. street drive ability is absolutely fine.converter and 3.54 gears took a full second off my 1/4 mi. et and 60' from 2.1 to 1.7
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by Mr. Peabody
I went with a Yank SS 3200 and have really enjoyed it. I did find it necessary to mount a B&M trans fluid cooler in front of the AC condenser and it really does the job.
Yes, the higher the stall speed the more heat the TC generates. Also the greater the torque multiplication which will stress the transmission and rear end more - be ready for that.
Yes, the higher the stall speed the more heat the TC generates. Also the greater the torque multiplication which will stress the transmission and rear end more - be ready for that.
Yes I agree. The Yank was installed when my original 4l60e was replaced for a built one that I purchased from someone who stopped a project and had a built 4l60e from a known to me builder. This was 10 years ago just after the hot cam kit and headers were installed. Drove the car every day and did a full 1st gear & half way through 2nd burnout every night at a particular stop on the way from work each night. (talk about perma-grin). The combination of the mild cam and the higher stall TC really make the car so fun to drive.
Last year the sprag broke and so I had the trans rebuilt and I swapped out the D36 for a 3.45 D44.
Yes, the higher the stall speed the more heat the TC generates. Also the greater the torque multiplication which will stress the transmission and rear end more - be ready for that.
So can I get some "driveability concerns" in using a 2800 vs 3000 vs 3200 TC....I haven't bought one yet and was considering Yank or Vigilante and I'm intrigued by Blackmamba's choice
You never mentioned what rear gear you have.... Considering you are looking at a small cam in the future , I would go with something in the 2800-3200 range in a small dia converter, along with a transmission cooler...
Next, I would find a dana 44 with a 3.45- 4.10 gear range....
Then do the cam....
FWIW with a 3000 yank, 4.10 gear, hand ported heads, hotcam, LT headers feeding into stock exhaust, I was able to run a best of 11.71 at 117.3 mph on lightweight wheels and slicks...
Just a decent converter and a decent gear will put you into the 12's with drag radials , on a good day!!
You never mentioned what rear gear you have.... Considering you are looking at a small cam in the future , I would go with something in the 2800-3200 range in a small dia converter, along with a transmission cooler...
Next, I would find a dana 44 with a 3.45- 4.10 gear range....
Then do the cam....
FWIW with a 3000 yank, 4.10 gear, hand ported heads, hotcam, LT headers feeding into stock exhaust, I was able to run a best of 11.71 at 117.3 mph on lightweight wheels and slicks...
Just a decent converter and a decent gear will put you into the 12's with drag radials , on a good day!!
1996 A4(stock rebuild) with 3.07 rear
LE2 build (with Manley 2.00/1.56 valves and Lunati dbl springs)
222/228 .570/.565 110 LSA camshaft and all supporting parts and the “while you’re in there” parts
Ported intake
30lbs FIC injectors
48mm TB
I have 3.07 gears and was thinking of moving up to 3.54s. I plan on staying with the D36. Mostly cruising, running it from 20 - 80 mph (feel that torque ), so no track time (maybe once or twice)
another question I have is will a D36 2 series carrier be "weaker" with Richmond thin gears (3.54) than a stock D36 with 3.07s?
LE2 build (with Manley 2.00/1.56 valves and Lunati dbl springs)
222/228 .570/.565 110 LSA camshaft and all supporting parts and the “while you’re in there” parts
Ported intake
30lbs FIC injectors
48mm TB
I have 3.07 gears and was thinking of moving up to 3.54s. I plan on staying with the D36. Mostly cruising, running it from 20 - 80 mph (feel that torque ), so no track time (maybe once or twice)
another question I have is will a D36 2 series carrier be "weaker" with Richmond thin gears (3.54) than a stock D36 with 3.07s?
TIA
Cam close to my LE cam 223/231 .557/.571 110 LSA
and Lunati voodoo springs 73925K5
ever have it dynoed? curious on hp with the LE2 heads, my guess with H/C 370 rwhp ish
LE2 build (with Manley 2.00/1.56 valves and Lunati dbl springs)
222/228 .570/.565 110 LSA camshaft and all supporting parts and the “while you’re in there” parts
Ported intake
30lbs FIC injectors
48mm TB
I have 3.07 gears and was thinking of moving up to 3.54s. I plan on staying with the D36. Mostly cruising, running it from 20 - 80 mph (feel that torque ), so no track time (maybe once or twice)
another question I have is will a D36 2 series carrier be "weaker" with Richmond thin gears (3.54) than a stock D36 with 3.07s?
TIA
Actually, I was answering the OP.....
But on yours, this is my opinion.
I would not fool with the D36. I would put that money in a D44
That being said, I would want a 3.73-4.10 ratio.
BTW the lower you go, ie: 3:07 to a 3.54. it will put more torque on the ring gear, carrier, caps etc.
wow that cam is choppy compared to what i thought I'd get, there were cams that Lloyd said were much more choppy.
I have to remember this is technically the wife's corvette ......so it can't be too crazy! Thats why I ask about the TC......
So far the best mod for her is me changing the dingy, dirty gray carpet/interior to Torch Red and after shampooing it thoroughly it is RED!!
I'll remember a line Lloyd say to this northerner....with his Texas twang...."It's gonna be like gettin' rearend by a dump truck"
Yeah My 3800 in Camaro I used to say like getting rear ended by a bus.
2800 no where near like that. drives completely smooth when just cruising. not bad at all.
that 1st start clip was before tune which took most of the chop out. here is 2 clips both after tune with old exhaust and new
Shorty headers,stock cats, X-Pipe and muffler deletes:
Torque converter suggestions
… I have used both Yank and Precision Industries Vigilante (currently) … great converters … call them and ask for their guidance on stall speed … Vigilante offers a free re-stall in case you don't like the 1st choice …..
), so no track time (maybe once or twice)