1994 base convert...engine is not Vette like!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
This has been a Closer Look. Ba-da..boom!
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
As I said above... the thermostat sets the minimum operating temperature.:
The problem with a low temp thermostat then for regular driving is that there are times when the car will be running at a temperature lower than it's design intended. The result is increased wear on the engine's internals. It's essentially the same as if you assembled the engine with clearances tighter than designed for because you didn't follow the directions or your tools were not calibrated properly.
The bottom line however is that in a street car, you're increasing wear and getting no benefit. In a race car, it's a band-aid but not one that you should plan to rely on. If you're having overheating problems, check the cooling system thoroughly and if all is well, upgrade the radiator, fans or even the water pump -- not the thermostat. If your coolant gauge never goes above normal then your cooling system is adequate for your use of the car. If you're chasing more power, this isn't a place to look. Any power gain would be circumstantial (ie, only under certain conditions), incredibly negligible, and at the risk of accelerated wear on your expensive engine internals (especially in street cars).
If the engine does not reach a high enough temp for the computer to leave warm-up mode then fuel economy will drop dramatically. This is the reason we do not produce or recommend for street use: 160° thermostats, running no thermostat or drilling holes in a thermostat.
Another concern is oil temperature and viscosity. If the engine oil does not get hot enough to burn off certain contaminants then the oil's effective life will be reduced
Some engines may exhibit a slight decrease in fuel economy with lower coolant temps but typically not more than 1 MPG. I believe this is the trade off made for the improved throttle response of a more effective powerplant or could just be an indication that some minor adjustments need to be made in the tune.
Drawbacks during normal driving/non-race conditions: -Fuel economy suffers because combustion chambers are not preheated as designed for factory operating temp -Emissions are also higher because the cooler engine is less likely to have a clean and full burn of the fuel -Lower combustion chamber temp caters to forming carbon deposits -Heat from the HVAC system will not be as hot
As far as the advantages of opening the thermostat’s valve at a lower temperature goes, there are proven benefits in a high-performance or race environment.
[/QUOTE]
So again I say, unless you are doing something to exploit the lower operating temps, it is pointless. You can go argue with the publishers. They only tout benefits for track applications and turn their nose up at it being just a band-aid for overheating issues.
The problem with a low temp thermostat then for regular driving is that there are times when the car will be running at a temperature lower than it's design intended. The result is increased wear on the engine's internals. It's essentially the same as if you assembled the engine with clearances tighter than designed for because you didn't follow the directions or your tools were not calibrated properly.
The bottom line however is that in a street car, you're increasing wear and getting no benefit. In a race car, it's a band-aid but not one that you should plan to rely on. If you're having overheating problems, check the cooling system thoroughly and if all is well, upgrade the radiator, fans or even the water pump -- not the thermostat. If your coolant gauge never goes above normal then your cooling system is adequate for your use of the car. If you're chasing more power, this isn't a place to look. Any power gain would be circumstantial (ie, only under certain conditions), incredibly negligible, and at the risk of accelerated wear on your expensive engine internals (especially in street cars).
If the engine does not reach a high enough temp for the computer to leave warm-up mode then fuel economy will drop dramatically. This is the reason we do not produce or recommend for street use: 160° thermostats, running no thermostat or drilling holes in a thermostat.
Another concern is oil temperature and viscosity. If the engine oil does not get hot enough to burn off certain contaminants then the oil's effective life will be reduced
Some engines may exhibit a slight decrease in fuel economy with lower coolant temps but typically not more than 1 MPG. I believe this is the trade off made for the improved throttle response of a more effective powerplant or could just be an indication that some minor adjustments need to be made in the tune.
Drawbacks during normal driving/non-race conditions: -Fuel economy suffers because combustion chambers are not preheated as designed for factory operating temp -Emissions are also higher because the cooler engine is less likely to have a clean and full burn of the fuel -Lower combustion chamber temp caters to forming carbon deposits -Heat from the HVAC system will not be as hot
As far as the advantages of opening the thermostat’s valve at a lower temperature goes, there are proven benefits in a high-performance or race environment.
[/QUOTE]
So again I say, unless you are doing something to exploit the lower operating temps, it is pointless. You can go argue with the publishers. They only tout benefits for track applications and turn their nose up at it being just a band-aid for overheating issues.
Last edited by KyleF; Sep 17, 2019 at 12:14 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
You ARE the same "Kyle" from third gen!
Fortunately, I never said one word about using a stat as a band-aid for overheating. Did I? If I did, please quote where I did that so that I can correct it. My point was that it can benefit performance -all by itself, (as demonstrated (twice) by Engine Masters); as much as a stupid foil for 1/4 the cost. Post all the worthless, irrelevant links you want...I've done it and measured the results objectively and with repeatability.
At any rate the OP could run the car cooler if he chooses, and exploit the benefit for free, with more timing.
Fortunately, I never said one word about using a stat as a band-aid for overheating. Did I? If I did, please quote where I did that so that I can correct it. My point was that it can benefit performance -all by itself, (as demonstrated (twice) by Engine Masters); as much as a stupid foil for 1/4 the cost. Post all the worthless, irrelevant links you want...I've done it and measured the results objectively and with repeatability.
At any rate the OP could run the car cooler if he chooses, and exploit the benefit for free, with more timing.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
Mr. Kendrick it seems we agree on being able to exploit lower temps. He never said he was going to do a tune... OP never mentioned a tune at all which makes cranking the timing up irrelevant to this thread as far as I can remember... not reading back right now.
How does one get an LT1's tune done for free?
Last edited by KyleF; Sep 17, 2019 at 01:32 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
Likes: 3,216
From: Park City Utah
Haven't priced one recently. I also don't know what the OP's plans are for mods/tunes, or whatever. you're right that an LT1 would require an actual tune, rather than a distributor twist. One important point from the other thread that I linked was that Engine Masters picked up meaningful hp w/o exploiting the lower operating temps. IOW, they didn't change the timing. They just changed temps and lost or gained power.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 61
Likes: 5
From: VA
