C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

93 no start

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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 11:03 AM
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From: Troy Al
Default 93 no start

I drove my 93 coupe to work Friday. When I got in it to go to lunch it wouldn't crank. By that I mean it spins over, but never starts. At first I thought I had flooded it. So I waited 1/2 hour tried it again, Then several times later through the day. Not getting a strong squirt from the shrader valve on the fuel rails. At that time I was thinking Opti again, as this car has a history of this problem. I was parallel parked on a slight hill. Nose down. Other then the heat of the day, everything was the same as early that morning where it fired off in the garage just 4 hours earlier, first bump of the starter.. At the end of the day, I hired a roll back to pick it up and move it to my house. The next day I go out, and it cranks up! Didn't I read here on the forum about the anti-theft system doing something like this? I've searched, but don't see it. As I recall, something about the sharp incline the car is placed in creates, or clears the anti-theft if it thinks it is being towed and stolen and turns off the fuel pump. Can someone familiar with this system please give me a quick overview of how this works? How can I prevent it from happening again and leaving me stranded.
THANKS!
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Old Sep 15, 2019 | 01:55 PM
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The vats works off your key reader in the lock cylinder .
It doesn’t know if the car is being towed or not.
It can also effect the cranking circuit the starter enable relay. When the event occurs you should check for injector pulse with a noid light as well as check for spark and fuel pressure.

www.tunedperformance.org to get vats disabled.
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 08:22 AM
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Sounds like the hill nose down was affecting fuel delivery. Is your gas guage working? Did you have fuel in tank? Has the fuel pump been out or is it original? Jack it up in your garage and see if it will not start. How about codes any past in memory?
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Old Sep 16, 2019 | 11:34 AM
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From: Troy Al
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Originally Posted by fake
Sounds like the hill nose down was affecting fuel delivery. Is your gas guage working? Did you have fuel in tank? Has the fuel pump been out or is it original? Jack it up in your garage and see if it will not start. How about codes any past in memory?
Three bars on the gas gauge. When it gets down to two, the reserve indicator comes on. I have let it get down to one bar, and it still cranks. Also, the next morning it started with no gas added.
My question is there anything that would make the fuel pump shut down? How can I reset it if it happens again? Fuel pump is less than a year old AC Delco. I wish I had tried to remove the power from the battery post to reset the system. The gas level sending unit was replaced a few years back, and has been working reliably since.
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Old Sep 18, 2019 | 10:13 PM
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You can't judge fuel pressure with a squirt, you need a gauge

When you turn the key, just listen for the 2 second prime.
But I don’t think you have a fuel delivery problem, I think it's a spark problem

Possible bad ICM. Hard to check especially if heat related. Easy to replace and not too expensive.

Possible bad ECM. Their known to do strange things with temperature also.

If this happens at home, you need to check for spark off the coil and check the drive for the injectors with a noid light. Then you will have some real data. Can't fix this on the street.
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Old Sep 20, 2019 | 10:43 AM
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From: Troy Al
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Originally Posted by pcolt94
You can't judge fuel pressure with a squirt, you need a gauge

When you turn the key, just listen for the 2 second prime.
But I don’t think you have a fuel delivery problem, I think it's a spark problem

Possible bad ICM. Hard to check especially if heat related. Easy to replace and not too expensive.

Possible bad ECM. Their known to do strange things with temperature also.

If this happens at home, you need to check for spark off the coil and check the drive for the injectors with a noid light. Then you will have some real data. Can't fix this on the street.
Thanks for your help. I had wished I had checked for ignition failure. Your right. I didn't have my tools, so it would have been difficult to check. Both the ICM and ECM have been replaced fairly recently. The ECM was sent off for a rebuild. I can certainly put another ICM on it, but I feel like I'm just throwing parts at the wall to see what sticks. I have a fuel pressure gauge, but didn't have it with me the night it quit. All good suggestions. I'm afraid to drive it too far, or out of town now. Towing fees are eating my lunch!
Thanks again.
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Old Sep 21, 2019 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by choopes
Thanks for your help. I had wished I had checked for ignition failure. Your right. I didn't have my tools, so it would have been difficult to check. Both the ICM and ECM have been replaced fairly recently. The ECM was sent off for a rebuild. I can certainly put another ICM on it, but I feel like I'm just throwing parts at the wall to see what sticks. I have a fuel pressure gauge, but didn't have it with me the night it quit. All good suggestions. I'm afraid to drive it too far, or out of town now. Towing fees are eating my lunch!
Thanks again.
Finding intermittent problems is tough especially on the road. Extremely difficult to check for spark on the street by yourself. But you can carry a fuel pressure gauge with you. Just takes a minute to connect to see what the pressure is. If you can eliminate fuel, (or select) that’s a big portion of possibilities eliminated. Then you can zero in on spark or injector drive problems.
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