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After ONLY 25 years, my 95 fuel pump decided to quit ( thankfully in my driveway ). Confirmed that the fuel pump fuse and relay were sending voltage to the sending unit. At least it's easier to get to than my K5 Blazer. Boy ! That assembly was very corroded ! ! Alcohol fuel blend ? For the next owner, I ordered a stainless steel replacement and a new fuel pump. There is a thingie between the pump and the fuel line that the manual mentions as a pulse damper device. New pumps just provide a length of rubber tube as a replacement. The device is also really surface corroded but I think it is fine internally if I can clean it up. My question is . . . Is it really necessary ? These pumps are impeller types ( not like cam driven / block mounted carb pumps of old that *did* pulse at half rpm ) So I really don't have a way to test it , but before I put it all back together,
What is the experience from others who have been there/done that ?
Use a piece of Hose that is designed for being submerged in gasoline and made for EFI pressures. The damper is not needed and a lot of us remove them and replace them with a section of hose. Just make sure you use SS clamps on the fuel lines.
Good Luck and put that fuel system back together so you can enjoy your Corvette!
Might be easier to buy the kit from Racetronix to install the thing. They have all the parts needed including the gasket and the SS bolts to make future work easier. Sure, you can buy 6 inches of submersible line but not sure who sells it by the half foot.
I drained the tank yesterday and cleaned the bottom of the tank with an old tee shirt. Noticed that there is a plastic thing attached to the bottom. Is this where the fuel strainer sits ? I didn't notice it as I pulled the sender out .
I drained the tank yesterday and cleaned the bottom of the tank with an old tee shirt. Noticed that there is a plastic thing attached to the bottom. Is this where the fuel strainer sits ? I didn't notice it as I pulled the sender out .
Don
It could be the sump if it has straight lines. Take a picture
What's your year? What mods do you have and want to make?
Sorry forgot to mention that, it's a '96 and it has the LE2 package from Lloyd Elliott and all the supporting parts. He recommended 30lbs injectors, so I was curious about an upgraded fuel pump.
Sorry forgot to mention that, it's a '96 and it has the LE2 package from Lloyd Elliott and all the supporting parts. He recommended 30lbs injectors, so I was curious about an upgraded fuel pump.
I pulled the sender/pump and checked the old pump with a motorcycle battery on the bench.... nothing. The pump wouldn't spin This after draining all the gas out of it and letting it sit overnight.
I missed a critical piece of troubleshooting. The fuel gauge showed FULL with maybe 3 gallons left in the tank.
I installed the new fuel pump / sock / Stainless Steel sending unit. . Connected the power connector and tried to crank the car....... Spins over .... No Start.
Gas Gauge reads FULL with 5 gallons of 93 octaine. The Factory Service Manual points towards an open ground for the sending unit.
Hummmmm.... an open ground would also keep the pump from running.
I brought the motorcycle battery to the car, and clip-lead the battery to the pump connector. It RUNS !!! Wooo Wooo ! !
Back to the ignition key. . . crank and the engine fires and runs.
So it appears that I have a bad ground wire back at the tank.
So now, I have to find where that ground goes, and give it a good cleaning..
I am not so sure on the newer C4's but I did the same thing and found a bad connection at the fuel pump relay that was causing my issues.
On the 1988 C4 there was a ground strap that was broken off and I reconnected it and suddenly the antenna popped out. There are so many different ground locations on these C4's
Do you have the set of factory service manuals for your particular year Corvette? The manuals I have for my 1988 C4 have two books, the big one is the main car and the second is only for the electrical issues and has schematics and location maps of the grounds. If you have the manuals then you should be able to find exactly where the fuel pump is supposed to get it's ground from.
You might be able to run a temporary wire supplying ground now but for long term I would find the problem. I use a gadget called a "Power Probe" and it acts like a multi meter but also has the function of being able to supply +12 Vdc at the tip or 0 Vdc simply using a rocker switch. It is a very handy tool on a fiberglass Car.....
I spent weeks finding and fixing all my bad grounds and voltage drops through out the Corvette. Now I use "DeOxIt" to properly clean the terminals and connections. I had a 2 volt voltage drop so everything was at 10 volts instead of simply because the post where the fusible links get their power had corroded up badly. The radio sounded bad and nothing worked properly until I solved the voltage drop. After fixing it the fuel pump even runs faster with full battery power. I had digital dash problems, (LOTS of bad grounds here), C68 A/C controller problems due to bad grounds, interior lights and so on.
It is imperative that you fix the bad grounds and voltage drops in your Corvette as the drive-train and the interior all need full power. I used battery grease on top of the hardware around any power connections to keep them from corroding again.
It is great that you solved your issues! We like to see that around here on the Corvette Forum! The best part is we all learn while were are working together.