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After much searching and reading, looking for the 'yup' this is still a good standard for an upcoming alignment on a 95 vert. Following is the C4 section from the VBP alignment sheet that has been floating around. All new suspension (lowered about 1/2"), RideTech HQ Single Adjustable shocks. Currently running standard size staggered tires, will be upgrading in the near future to 18" same size all four corners. My preference would be for the Advanced Street set up. Thanks in-advance for your comments and direction.
Cheers. -Steve
Last edited by steve1657; Sep 25, 2019 at 07:57 PM.
I've experimented quite a bit with alignments and I'd say the autocross and track setting is pretty close to what I use. But my suspension is pretty moddified so your mileage may vary.
For what purpose - just street driving? If so, I'd probably go for a bit more negative camber up front, maybe -0.5-0.75, and stick with zero toe. The rear spec for "Advanced Street" is probably pretty good. I believe the 88-96 cars have a bit less (negative) camber gain in bump, so it stands to reason they can use a bit more static camber than the earlier C4s. As long as you stick with zero toe up front, the extra camber won't cause a lot of inside tire wear.
PS - If you're planning to autocross or track the car, you need every bit of camber you can get and then some. -3.5 front and -2.5 rear is not too much, with close to zero toe.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Sep 23, 2019 at 10:12 PM.
I run advanced street with the exception of a tiny bit of front toe in an close to double the camber. My 91 feels good with it and handles well. With fresh tires it will corner well enough the average person is screaming to get out LOL.
The alignment was completed yesterday and I appreciate all of the input. Did the tech miss the rear toe for adv street, it seems to be set about neutral ?? Should I take a trip back and ask for an adjustment to the requested specs ?? For Matthew Miller, used for spirited street driving.
I provided a copy out of the FSM for both front and rear torque specs, with a reminder the rear spindle adjustment nut required 187 lbs.ft. Upon pickup I asked if this was completed, "well um that tool is broken". Shows me a 1/2 breaker bar and says that he hung on it at 160 lbs. Great, I should have brought my own tools too, I'll just check the torque when I get it home
Did the tech miss the rear toe for adv street, it seems to be set about neutral ?? Should I take a trip back and ask for an adjustment to the requested specs ??
I wouldn't sweat that at all. That's extremely close to zero toe, which is fine. A teeny bit of toe in at the back provides a bit of extra stability at the expense of understeer. But the camber he put in there is going to keep things stable anyway, and the later C4 rear geometry is biased toward more stability too. So you're good.
I provided a copy out of the FSM for both front and rear torque specs, with a reminder the rear spindle adjustment nut required 187 lbs.ft. Upon pickup I asked if this was completed, "well um that tool is broken". Shows me a 1/2 breaker bar and says that he hung on it at 160 lbs. Great, I should have brought my own tools too, I'll just check the torque when I get it home
I have to say that these are prone to moving around no matter how much torque they are tightened to. The stickier the tires and the more cornering force used, the more likely it becomes. Even for otherwise stock C4s, I'd replace the stock camber (spindle) rods with aftermarket links that use rod ends in place of the axial bushings and cam bolts. You'll probably be fine since you aren't autocrossing or tracking the car on competition tires. However, while you're under there checking the torque, you should take a paint pen and mark the cam adjuster's position on each side. That way, if they move you will be able to see it for sure. Also while you're under there, check the bolts that hold the brackets to the diff housing. They can start moving around, too.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Sep 24, 2019 at 05:54 PM.
However, while you're under there checking the torque, you should take a paint pen and mark the cam adjuster's position on each side. That way, if they move you will be able to see it for sure. Also while you're under there, check the bolts that hold the brackets to the diff housing. They can start moving around, too.
Thank you for your continued input and guidance. Great idea to mark the cam positions with a paint pen. Otherwise everything should be good and tight, just rebuilt the entire suspension / brakes and have been back to recheck torque after a couple of test drives. Now to dial in some 18" wheel / tire combo for all four corners, looking for same size that will fit 95 convertible.
Couple of pics of dirt / clay welded between the rear bushings and suspension pieces and after shot of the front finished.
Now to dial in some 18" wheel / tire combo for all four corners, looking for same size that will fit 95 convertible.
I'd suggest 275/35/18 on 18x9.5 or 18x10 wheels, with anywhere from 50-56mm offset. The less offset, the more wide-stance and aggressive looking it will be.
I'd suggest 275/35/18 on 18x9.5 or 18x10 wheels, with anywhere from 50-56mm offset. The less offset, the more wide-stance and aggressive looking it will be.
How are you liking the Ridetech shocks?
Ridetech shocks have made a significant difference. No more floating front and bouncy rear, feels much more planted and that was before the alignment, I know I was crabbing down the road LOL. I hope to get out more this week and much more this weekend to dial them in. That and decide on 18" rims / tire combo, looks like most of the aftermarket corvette style rims are 18x9.5". Should be like a new car
VBP Alignment Spec Sheet Still Preferred ?
