Rack and Pinion Replacement?
I've got my fingers crossed that it's only a PS line with a bad leak, but I'd rather be prepared for a more major problem and then be relieved if it's not. Unfortunately if the rack does need to be replaced it might be a while since the "working side" of my shop is occupied with a relatively long-term project that can't be moved again until it's at least a roller.
Thanks, in advance, for any input or experience with C4 rack and pinion replacement.
Lynn
Last edited by lake_harley; Oct 26, 2019 at 09:29 AM.
I understand re the Rack rebuilt, that's costly. Might be your PS pump,, hopefully !
You might power wash or clean the area under the radiator and PS Pump and where ever else you can get at... Then park the car with a clean drip pan under when the fluid is leaking onto your garage floor.
What you need to know is where the fluid is leaking from, and check the color. As the Transmission fluid line could have a leak or where it's attached to the radiator. Which Leaks,,,, PS Pump, Trans, or a little of Both ??
If your Rack is leaking, the only qualified re-builder I know is Turn One
good luck,
Michael
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My big question is, if it's the rack and pinion that needs to be replaced, how much of a hassle is the replacement process? One Chevy dealership mechanic I talked with talked like it's an all day job, so if he's saying that I fear it would take me a couple days since it's my first time doing it. Not an appealing thought.
But you're exactly right, I first need to clean everything up to determine the leak's source. Just a quick check of the PS fluid level might give a quick answer, but I can't open the hood with the car under my lift. Guess I'll just have to make time to look into it.
Thanks
Lynn
With two mentions and satisfied users of Turn One, I'll check them out.
Lynn
Last edited by lake_harley; Oct 26, 2019 at 01:38 PM.
An experience mech can change to R&P fairly quickly,,, esp on a Rack. They tend to exaggerate considerably
The key is to get everything CLEAN..
Block your wheels with a 2x6 or larger with a tapered edge towards the Tire. This will help to keep the Toe In close to where it is now. You should get an alignment when this Job is finished.
You'll need a good pair of Vice Gripe to Turn the Outer Steering Rod on the Rack, loosen the Jam Nut First. I usually get all the nuts and bolts loose prior to removing anything, esp on a Rack replacement. The Bolt of the Rack that secures the steering shaft can be a |PITA
Be sure to Center the rack to Straight ahead prior to blocking the wheels.
Since your replacing the Rack get a new PS Pump too, and flush & check the hydraulic lines with PS fluids, lots and lots.
You should get a set of Metric Line Wrenches for the Hydraulic lines, last thing you want to do is damage one of the hydraulic lines. Sometimes a hydraulic line fitting will be very tight. If so, try Tapping the Wrench Plastic Hammer.
If your R&P doesn't come with new mounting bushings, get them , their inexpensive.
You might be able to find a step by step post, try a Google search..
Good Luck...
Michael.
Thanks again.
Lynn
Last edited by lake_harley; Oct 26, 2019 at 05:48 PM.
Went
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
the springs inside for pressure are c4 specific but the pump itself is very common on GMs.
I replaced my 25 year old PS pump and first one was junk, second one has low assist at idle.
turned my old one in as a core .... at least keep yours and swap springs if needed.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Oct 27, 2019 at 09:24 AM.





Last edited by Natty C; Oct 29, 2019 at 07:58 PM.
Unfortunately, I still have my "working" shop tied up. Maybe when the 'Vette's turn comes around I'll find it's just a leaking line. (Fingers crossed!)
Thanks.
Lynn





Unfortunately, I still have my "working" shop tied up. Maybe when the 'Vette's turn comes around I'll find it's just a leaking line. (Fingers crossed!)
Thanks.
Lynn
Rebuilt rack/ $378 and some change.
Power steering pressure hose/ $31 and some change.
Power steerig return hose/ $24 and some change.
Power steering pump/ $136 and some change.
Tie rod ends/ $60 and some change each/ X2 @ $121 and some change total.
Fluid/ $11 and some change for 2 pints.
The rest was labor.
Remove and replace rack assy /road test - 3hrs
Remove and replace power steering pump assy/ Remove and replace return and pressure hoses - 2hrs
Remove and replace tie rod ends - 1.62 hrs
Complete 4 wheel alignment - 1.12 hrs.
Looks like I only paid around $500 in labor.
Heat is the killer for the power steering systems, if you could cool the fluid with an additional cooler the whole system would last much longer. I have a larger than stock P/S reservoir and that alone adds 16 ounces or more fluid into the system with a aluminum container to help dump the heat. A simple fluid cooler would be more than enough if located on the return line and has good airflow. The cooler the better, PS get a lot of abuse.
Power steering inline filters are a good thing to add as well, they protect the whole system from a errant sliver of metal or anything that does not belong inside the PS system.
Good Luck on whichever direction you decide to go! Lucas makes a great leak sealing power steering fluid if it is a small leak!
Best regards,
Chris
I paid 140(needed a sleeve). Then of course a new pump and new hoses. Worth a try.
Good Luck


















