96 dana diff. series 2 or 3?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
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From: Fort Mill, SC
96 dana diff. series 2 or 3?
I guess when I order a new ring and pinion I need to order for a 2 or 3 series correct? If so, how do I know what I have. I have a 1996 with a 2.59 ratio.
Is there a good document I can use for r&r? I think I will pull it and deliver to a shop and re-install.
Opinions of been discussed to exhaustion about 36 vs 44 and rations.. thats not what Im looking for here, respectfully. I just need to make sure I order the right parts.
I guess I should order a rebuild kit as well?
Is there a good document I can use for r&r? I think I will pull it and deliver to a shop and re-install.
Opinions of been discussed to exhaustion about 36 vs 44 and rations.. thats not what Im looking for here, respectfully. I just need to make sure I order the right parts.
I guess I should order a rebuild kit as well?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 80
From: Fort Mill, SC
If Im series 2.. is it the thick I want? Such as this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Richmond-Da...gAAOSwbYZXfjkf
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
If you have a Dana 36 with a 2.59 ratio, you have a 2 series carrier.
Yes best to get a rebuild kit with all bearings, seals, and shims (if needed).
You will spend more money going this route than finding a used 44 with that ratio in it.
Yes best to get a rebuild kit with all bearings, seals, and shims (if needed).
You will spend more money going this route than finding a used 44 with that ratio in it.
Last edited by KyleF; Dec 18, 2019 at 10:46 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
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From: Fort Mill, SC
Really? Hmmm a used 44 with all parts need/ed? shorter drive shaft yes? and shipping? I'll start looking.
Last edited by barchetta1; Dec 18, 2019 at 11:55 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Fort Mill, SC
I dont know.. ebay they are 1200 to 1500 $$.+ freight. I figure, 600 parts $250 labor but maybe as much as $400 labor. But Id have a new albeit weaker differential and not risking used from a stick car. Im auto so not going to be near the torque on this. But here we go into the debate which I was trying to avoid. I keep watching for a local opportunity but never seem to find one..
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2016
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From: N.E. Ohio OH
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
A 3.07 ratio Dana 44 will have come out of an earlier, less HP/Torque car.
What ratio are you wanting to go to ? Once it is all said and done, and depending on your end HP/Torque destination, you could always get a diff from Zip and have them fit it for their enhanced batwing that has the support blocks for the bearing blocks. Makes it like a baby 44.
What ratio are you wanting to go to ? Once it is all said and done, and depending on your end HP/Torque destination, you could always get a diff from Zip and have them fit it for their enhanced batwing that has the support blocks for the bearing blocks. Makes it like a baby 44.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 80
From: Fort Mill, SC
A 3.07 ratio Dana 44 will have come out of an earlier, less HP/Torque car.
What ratio are you wanting to go to ? Once it is all said and done, and depending on your end HP/Torque destination, you could always get a diff from Zip and have them fit it for their enhanced batwing that has the support blocks for the bearing blocks. Makes it like a baby 44.
What ratio are you wanting to go to ? Once it is all said and done, and depending on your end HP/Torque destination, you could always get a diff from Zip and have them fit it for their enhanced batwing that has the support blocks for the bearing blocks. Makes it like a baby 44.
zip has nothing in stock and I have no ship pallet to ship them mine first.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2013
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From: near the thumb in the mitten
D36 2.59 diff with batwing can be found for a few hundred dollars they are extremely common. Owners who swapped it out for d44 or 3.07 D36 normally happy to part with atleast the "diff, hogs head, chunk " keeping the batwing or cover.
D44 will require m6 driveshaft ( shorter) & c beam. A4 c beam can be modified by drilling new holes on transmission end. A4 yoke needs to be installed on M6 tube.
D44 will require m6 driveshaft ( shorter) & c beam. A4 c beam can be modified by drilling new holes on transmission end. A4 yoke needs to be installed on M6 tube.
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Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
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From: Michigan
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
Don't fear the Gear, your LT1 will have no issues running between 2000-2500 RPMs
You will love the added torque multiplication though when you put your foot down.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Fort Mill, SC
I don't know why you feel this way. I had a DD Mustang GT 5-speed I ran 4.11's in. No Problem. 2500RPM at 75MPH and got over 22MPG.
Don't fear the Gear, your LT1 will have no issues running between 2000-2500 RPMs
You will love the added torque multiplication though when you put your foot down.
Don't fear the Gear, your LT1 will have no issues running between 2000-2500 RPMs
You will love the added torque multiplication though when you put your foot down.
seems like a huge jump. I'll write him and see if he has the c member and the driveshaft.. who knows, maybe it will fall together. A ratio that high has to be aftermarket yes?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Fort Mill, SC
According to my chart 4th @ 76.5 would be 2600 rpm though.. I usually drive in 3rd and according to my chart 77.5 is 2600.
Last edited by barchetta1; Dec 23, 2019 at 12:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
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From: Fort Mill, SC
Im glad you told me this, I didnt know Id need a special drive shaft. I think Im going to stick with my original plan a 3.54 dana 36. Im not a drag racer.. have no interest in drag starts. Just want performance on the road.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
I was on the fence with my Mustang because it was a DD. 3.73 or 4.11. Thought, split the difference and do 3.90. The guy who installed mine (yup certainly couldn't afford the tools to do it right at that time) gave me those words and the answer was no. Just about everyone I have ever known that has changed their rear gear has been very happy, and most say they would have went a step lower.
Without a donor car it will get a bit more expensive to go D44, but a 3.73 is far from a drag race gear. It's often considered the optimal street gear. With a OD, 3.73 won't be bad and you would find the car much happier to cruise in OD.
On the Mustang, it had a 3.55 factory. When I went 4.11 I actually got better gas mileage on average. My daily commute was mainly 45-55mph zone and after the 4.11 it was all 5th gear territory.
Lots of things to consider. Do what's best for you, but a 3.73 won't be like driving a race car or only for race car starts.
I changed the gear in my Mustang, IROC, Z28 and Viper. Don't regret any of them and always opted for the lowest gear (highest numerically) I was considering. Never regretted it. It really shows up in the 20-80mph range.
Last edited by KyleF; Dec 24, 2019 at 02:02 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 80
From: Fort Mill, SC
We all have reasons. Just ask yourself this, do you know anyone who wishes they didn't go lower on gear?
I was on the fence with my Mustang because it was a DD. 3.73 or 4.11. Thought, split the difference and do 3.90. The guy who installed mine (yup certainly couldn't afford the tools to do it right at that time) gave me those words and the answer was no. Just about everyone I have ever known that has changed their rear gear has been very happy, and most say they would have went a step lower.
Without a donor car it will get a bit more expensive to go D44, but a 3.73 is far from a drag race gear. It's often considered the optimal street gear. With a OD, 3.73 won't be bad and you would find the car much happier to cruise in OD.
On the Mustang, it had a 3.55 factory. When I went 4.11 I actually got better gas mileage on average. My daily commute was mainly 45-55mph zone and after the 4.11 it was all 5th gear territory.
Lots of things to consider. Do what's best for you, but a 3.73 won't be like driving a race car or only for race car starts.
I changed the gear in my Mustang, IROC, Z28 and Viper. Don't regret any of them and always opted for the lowest gear (highest numerically) I was considering. Never regretted it. It really shows up in the 20-80mph range.
I was on the fence with my Mustang because it was a DD. 3.73 or 4.11. Thought, split the difference and do 3.90. The guy who installed mine (yup certainly couldn't afford the tools to do it right at that time) gave me those words and the answer was no. Just about everyone I have ever known that has changed their rear gear has been very happy, and most say they would have went a step lower.
Without a donor car it will get a bit more expensive to go D44, but a 3.73 is far from a drag race gear. It's often considered the optimal street gear. With a OD, 3.73 won't be bad and you would find the car much happier to cruise in OD.
On the Mustang, it had a 3.55 factory. When I went 4.11 I actually got better gas mileage on average. My daily commute was mainly 45-55mph zone and after the 4.11 it was all 5th gear territory.
Lots of things to consider. Do what's best for you, but a 3.73 won't be like driving a race car or only for race car starts.
I changed the gear in my Mustang, IROC, Z28 and Viper. Don't regret any of them and always opted for the lowest gear (highest numerically) I was considering. Never regretted it. It really shows up in the 20-80mph range.
I dont have the right tools nor space to set mine up myself or I would. I have no issue setting up gears even for the 1st time.. Its amazing what a person can do when they are careful and do their homework..
I dont think I will find a dana 36 3.73 so may just yank it and do a total rebuild.. I really dont think my automatic car is gonna hurt a 36.. Ive never heard of one doing so anyway..
thanks again and Merry Christmas.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 229
From: Michigan
Agreed, not for a SOTP feel. What you have to keep in mind about gearing is this: It affects the torque output or force at the tires at the expense of speed. Force and speed are inversely proportional so the Horsepower curve doesn't change. As long as you have traction, there is not one "bolt-on" mod that can be done as cheap that will affect the feel as much. There are some draw backs to going too low on an engine that doesn't have a high RPM capability, but you are not considering ratios that low so I will save that.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,060
Likes: 80
From: Fort Mill, SC
Agreed, not for a SOTP feel. What you have to keep in mind about gearing is this: It affects the torque output or force at the tires at the expense of speed. Force and speed are inversely proportional so the Horsepower curve doesn't change. As long as you have traction, there is not one "bolt-on" mod that can be done as cheap that will affect the feel as much. There are some draw backs to going too low on an engine that doesn't have a high RPM capability, but you are not considering ratios that low so I will save that.
One concern is that 1st gear is going to be nearly useless. I can bump up the shift point some but still.. 2-3 is if I understand going to in a way be closer together which is desperately needed. Again I can pump up the shift point at 1/2 throttle on up.. 3rd should be killer no matter what gear and 4th is an issue only on a road trip. Which up to now I dont do.. I more or less go out for an hour or two drive now and then on a sunny day.
Would be fun to get next to a modern camaro with like a 3.73... just to see what could be done
All of the mods Id like to do are not engine.. Id REALLY love to use some sonax parts on my 4l60e.. I REALLY want to do their HD 2-3 valve.. Im a road racer (or used to be anyway) and I hate that in D there is no engine braking.. it makes it VERY difficult to navigate a corner using the throttle for controlling. Essentially throttle steering. As soon as you lift the damn thing goes free wheeling and you have to wait for the TC to spool up again.. its in a way quite dangerous actually. It would be easy for an inexperienced soul to add too much throttle and be surprised when the TC hooks back up.