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If you don't know or understand specifically what's needed it's a 'foolish' move on your part. Is it close by and easy to put your hands on before you pay?
Nice, thank you.
Best i pull the harness first and take pics and send them over
Removal ain't for the 'novice' either! You need to be prepared to offer up original harness #'s also and I'd suggest you accomplish that 1st.
If you posted a snapshot of the SPID label there's several of us that could likely ID the part #'s for the complete car. Which specific harness(s) do you feel you need?
that first picture of the wires.. but that tire.... that thing has been in or near a fire and gotten very hot... in fact after looking again..... about every picture i see fire damage to wiring/components. might be a good option to make it brain dead and ditch the electronics all together old school 385 action torque monster. beauty of that is with the manual trans you do not need to worry about tranny issues with no wiring
Finally found time to get started on pulling the wiring. So far so good, no wiring damage towards front of the car. Everything seems to be concentrated near the firewall.
I label every connector and take a pic. While I am at it I will replace all vacuum lines. Never liked those plastic tubes, especially when that old.
The only difficulty I ran into so far are the two driver side connectors on the firewall next to the battery. They don't want to disconnect. Need to figure out how to get to the release clamp towards the brake booster.
Thinking of maybe pulling the manifold to give it a good cleaning. This way I can replace the gaskets as well. Not sure if they are damaged..
absolutely 100% positive you want to pull the intake manifold.
the condition of that is appalling. i take them and pressure wash them then give them an eagle 1 treatment to brighten them up as new.
search google for that it will lok new. u will want to refinish your vc’s as well. that takes pressure washing and then paint stripper applications while covered in a garbage bag. then pressure wash and light sand then paint and 2part clear in can. ive had awesome results with kids acryllic paint and very fine brush and toothpick to repaint badge. then 2k clear it while clearing the vc’s. then scuff paint in the badge mounting location and underside of badge and jbweld it on.
entire engine gasket kits can be picked up on RA for very cheap. i use hylomar on my gaskets....but not necessary.
obey aaaallllll torque specs and totque bolt patterns!! have fun!
Is that a piece of Romex house wiring under there?
Where?
Oh, if you mean under the dash and what you see in the engine bay then yes. Someone wired up a push button and ran this across the engine bay to the starter. Already melted and exposed live wire
From what I am reading the car needs 22lb injectors. Anything bad about them? Reason I am asking is that all other vendors are selling injectors around the $300 range.
Yepp, going to clean everything. Already ordered all necessary gaskets, including the intake manifold ones.
Thanks for confirming the injectors, I will order them.
I will probably replace the egr valve as well. I noticed that there is a connector on the fuel rail, passenger side, that had nothing connected. Seeing online that there is an egr wire, I assume it might plug into there. Missing on mine
Two of the current injectors were pretty lose. Really amazed that the car was running and driving with all of what's going on. Really growing on me and can't wait to have her back on the road. I only drove her home back then when I got her.
Oh I see, so it's basically just for trouble shooting, not operational.
yes you should find a cap for it just to play it safe, it would be a shame if gas starts squirting out after all your hard work
and you end up have a car fire.
yes you should find a cap for it just to play it safe, it would be a shame if gas starts squirting out after all your hard work
and you end up have a car fire.
Yes, definitely don't want that...
Thanks much for the info...
