When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not much happened with the car this week. I had her at the shop for inspection and oil/coolant change. Car is in good shape but I still have a small leak coming from the throttle shaft. But it doesn't seem to affect the car much.
Now there are only two things to focus on:
It takes some cranking to start when cold. But I think I know where to look for that.
The other one is hesitation in throttle response, which is more pressing because it's currently a bit more tricky to drive a manual like that.
Other than that she's running but I haven't taken her out much. I just bought a new motorcycle which I have been riding in the mornings before work.
I'll drive the car for 40-50 miles tomorrow to get her going. Maybe things adjust themselves a bit.
Anyway, if anyone has an idea on the throttle response is gladly take it.
Did some research on the sticky throttle.
Tested both cables going to throttle body and they were smooth.
Reading that some people have the same issue and that I might be vaccum related, I adjusted the TB adjustment screw out a little to slightly open the butterflies.
this fixed the issue, throttle response is now smooth and no more stickiness.
took her out for an hour, stop and go traffic as well as highway. At first, the car wasn't happy when shifting into second gear and she kept bogging.
after 3 miles or so it must have adjusted itself because it smoothened out.
Car now runs really nice. It pulls hard, I floored it in 3rd at 70mph and it took off.
I think it also helped that I put different spark plugs in the other day. The new ones sit deeper.
now it's just taking care of the start issue and trying to figure out what to adjust so I can remove my key again. I haven't been able to remove it for a while now, I must have misadjusted that mechanism.
ideally though I'd like to be able to remove the key in any gear.
Found the key issue.
When the car is in reverse, a rod pushes into the steering column releasing the key.
Mine snapped off preventing the key from being removed.
If I push it in with my finger it releases easily.
this works in all gears, which is great.
I'll see if I can fix it in place, I'd rather park my car in first.
You can see the small black rod/switch that goes into the column top of the pic. It should be connected to the large one.
Another item off my list, now it's just taking care of the hard-to-start issue, which is most likely 9th injector related.
Honestly, the car should start pretty well without the ninth injector. I had mine blocked off since it was leaking on my last Corvette, and it just took an extra turn or two to start.
Honestly, the car should start pretty well without the ninth injector. I had mine blocked off since it was leaking on my last Corvette, and it just took an extra turn or two to start.
Right now it takes about three seconds of cranking but fires right up after and idles fine.
It's three seconds every time. Fuel pressure is good from ignition through cranking and running.
Doesn't bother me much right now but it's something I want to address.
Just ordered new brake rotors all around, so that will take priority.
Right now it takes about three seconds of cranking but fires right up after and idles fine.
It's three seconds every time. Fuel pressure is good from ignition through cranking and running.
Doesn't bother me much right now but it's something I want to address.
Just ordered new brake rotors all around, so that will take priority.
I would say you may have a faulty ninth injector. I'd also say that it's really not an issue, although if you want to address it go for it, it's your car. For me, I'd buy the blockoff plate for ~$20 and be done with the whole thing.
I would say you may have a faulty ninth injector. I'd also say that it's really not an issue, although if you want to address it go for it, it's your car. For me, I'd buy the blockoff plate for ~$20 and be done with the whole thing.
But wouldn't that also require marking changes to the ECM or somewhere else?
But wouldn't that also require marking changes to the ECM or somewhere else?
Nope. There's a blockoff plate for both the fuel rail and the intake, you just block both off and leave the pigtail disconnected. No codes or issues with this. It takes a little more cranking to get it started-but you're already experiencing that.
Here's a good test-disconnect the pigtail and try to start the engine. Any changes? if so, then the injector is likely doing something. If not, then it's probably not working. I'd do this test on a cold engine that has sat overnight.
You could simply leave it in place, but it can potentially leak, causing you issues. If there is an issue with the injector, it's best to simply block it off. While you can buy one aftermarket, it's pricey with very little benefit.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
