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leak could be in the tank between the fuel pump and outlet line, also when I did my fuel pressure regulator the round disk on the diaphragm had a rough service and would not seal, I had to polish it on a flat surface with some fine sandpaper (can not remember what gritt) so it would seal.
leak could be in the tank between the fuel pump and outlet line, also when I did my fuel pressure regulator the round disk on the diaphragm had a rough service and would not seal, I had to polish it on a flat surface with some fine sandpaper (can not remember what gritt) so it would seal.
I will pull the fuel pump and have a look.
I put a brand new regulator in. The old one was gross but seemed intact
Hooked up noid ight and it checks out.
I couldn't get the engine to fire even with some starter fluid.
Taking a break for remainder of the day and read up on a few things. But here is where I am so far but nothing I did helped:
Engine cranks
Engine does not start
getting spark
Have fuel injector pulse
Fuel pump primes.
While priming fuel pressure goes up and drops again
When I crank engine and as long as I crank I get around 40 pressure
As soon as I stop pressure drops immediately.
Replaced fuel regulator membrane
Pulled distributor and set timing again
No fuel leaks or excessive fuel smell
Battery was fully charged
Before I started everything was fine. So something must have happened in between. Or I forgot to plug something in, but I am sure everything is connected.
the things that are now different from before I started:
Rebuilt harness
New intake manifold seals
New seals on fuel rail
New fuel injectors
New air plenum gaskets
New distributor rotor and cap
New vacuum lines, connected as per sticker and forum pics.
Did a few more tests this morning.
Pulled all plugs and they appeared to be dry.
Checked resistance on injectors and all were between 15 and 15.2
I'll probably have a second pair of hands on the weekend to test a few more things. Until then I can finish up the trunk carpet and try to figure out how to jack up the rear of the car to replace shocks. Had a look this morning but with my shop jack it does not seem possible to lift without issues.
Oh, also got a nice set of wheels for the car. I'm excited about those. I am going to paint them graphite. Gonna be some work to prep them for paint.
I made one of these, the bottom piece is 4"x4", the verticle piece is 3 1/2" x 4" and I put a top piece on mine it was 2" x 4". It will slide between your exhaust pipes and works perfect. If you can't make one they call this a Jack-A-Vette and someone sells them but I don't remember who.
Oh that's cool. So that's basically an upside down T.
I have the car covered most of the time and only uncover the front half, so it never occurred to me to look at it from the back.
Should be interesting to see how that goes next time the car is at a shop to get an inspection and have them go over everything.
I'd assume they know how to lift it, but there is just not a lot of area.
Speaking of inspection and going over things.
I dont think this looks right and assume the bushing should be much wider...
I will go over suspension etc once car is running but noticed this while replacing the shocks.
Since I have spark and fuel, I wonder if it's an air issue.
Vacuum lines seem correct, tps is within spec.
could also be timing, but that's triple checked and I don't think I'm that far into either way to prevent a start.
Well, I am finishing up trunk carpet for now and take a break from start issue. Maybe it'll come to me in a day or two.
Still waiting for a new storage compartment, mine was broken, before the last piece of carpet goes in.
I'm pretty happy with the results, considering i only paid 55 dollars for the the complete carpet set. Trunk area required a lot of trimming.
Door panels are next.
I will need to try getting the covers on the bottom seat cushions again. Last time I stopped because I got a little frustrated because they just wouldn't fit.
there are some good video's out there on covering the seat covers, when I did mine I had a hard time with the bottoms also.
I have the iggee covers. You have the same?
Looking at them I think they just can't fit due the way they are stitched together. But I'll try it again one of these days.
Ok, and yes.
I did not want to spend too much money on real covers for now and in case I decide to put aftermarket seats in later on.
My covers just go on top of the originals.
I'm sure you've confirmed your distributor is installed so the rotor is pointed at the #1 cylinder when the #1 piston is at TDC on the power stroke, but here's a trick I use to get the distributor really close to the correct firing position. I have no trouble getting a newly assembled engine to start right away.
The distributor will obviously create a spark when the distributor shaft rotates past the critical alignment position of the magnetic pick-up (assuming your electrical is working). The distributor will also make a spark when the shaft is stationary and the HOUSING is rotated past that critical spot!
1. Set your timing marks at 8* BTDC on the #1 cyl. compression stroke.
2. Set your rotor pointing at the #1 cyl.
3. Spark plug #1 removed and arranged so you can see the spark.
4. Disconnect EST connector.
5. Ignition on.
6. Quickly twist your dist. housing back and forth.
7. Set the dist. at the position where you see the spark occur.
8. Snug down the dist. This won't be your final position, but the engine should start!
If you don't see a spark with this procedure, something is wrong.
Last edited by Hot Rod Roy; Apr 23, 2020 at 08:06 PM.
I'm sure you've confirmed your distributor is installed so the rotor is pointed at the #1 cylinder when the #1 piston is at TDC on the power stroke, but here's a trick I use to get the distributor really close to the correct firing position. I have no trouble getting a newly assembled engine to start right away.
The distributor will obviously create a spark when the distributor shaft rotates past the critical alignment position of the magnetic pick-up (assuming your electrical is working). The distributor will also make a spark when the shaft is stationary and the HOUSING is rotated past that critical spot!
1. Set your timing marks at 8* BTDC on the #1 cyl. power stroke.
2. Set your rotor pointing at the #1 cyl.
3. Spark plug #1 removed and arranged so you can see the spark.
4. Disconnect EST connector.
5. Ignition on.
6. Quickly twist your dist. housing back and forth.
7. Set the dist. at the position where you see the spark occur.
8. Snug down the dist. This won't be your final position, but the engine should start!
If you don't see a spark with this procedure, something is wrong.
Excellent, thank you. I will definitely try that.
Yes, confirmed that distributor is installed correctly and rotor points to #1 with engine TDC. I think I posted a pic a few posts earlier. All wires are plugged in correctly as well.
Now just to be sure:
When you say power stroke...
I set it TDC by checking timing mark (obviously) but also putting my thumb over spark plugs hole with air pushing out.
from what I read that's the stroke I am looking for.
Just double checking...
Ok, followed the steps, got spark, tightened distributor.
car started and kinda ran for a few seconds. But she won't stay on. It's like she is not getting fuel or something.
exhaust manifolds are warm
i wonder if it's vacuum. Hooked up vac gauge to one of the ports (have to check with manual if this is the correct port) and get around 15 when cranking.
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