C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

stock sbc block hp limits

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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 02:44 PM
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Default stock sbc block hp limits

I was thinking of assembling a 2 bolt 84 corvette block but having it machined for a 383 rotating assembly and a supercharger, installed with milodon 4 bolt splayed main caps and arp hardware. Can i run 700hp + with this combo? how strong does converting a factory 2 bolt to a splayed milodon 4 bolt make the block? (My luck is average but i'm not looking to build the block on luck)
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 02:57 PM
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Spend the extra money for a Dart or similar aftermarket block. It won’t cost that much more after all the machine work. It will be much stronger AND you can go larger than 383. And you will be much happier with the end result
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 03:14 PM
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If your goal is 700, I would look for a aftermarket block. If build 700 in 6 months you will want 800 just sayin. A 010 block they come in 2 and 4 bolt varieties should go to 700. Once you figure machine work : boring, splaying caps, align bore , checking for core shift, square decking, notching block for stroke ...etc you will be close to the cost of aftermarket iron block.
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 03:19 PM
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Can i get away with using a Dart SHP Iron block? It's the "most affordable" of them all. Dart rates it at 600hp but i've heard from some people that the actual numbers are SHP = 1000 and Little M = 2500
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 03:27 PM
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It depends on your build NA, Nitrous, Forced Induction? It will also depend on what you are going to do, street, drag, endurance, etc.
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevova
It depends on your build NA, Nitrous, Forced Induction? It will also depend on what you are going to do, street, drag, endurance, etc.
I've already got the cam, pistons, and heads in hand. 64cc heads, +15cc Dish Forged Aluminum pistons, Cam is custom grind for street/strip application courtesy of Lunati (solid flat tappet). plan on running a vortech V3 sbc supercharger kit and having a variable boost **** on it with the 16psi pulley. (full boost looking at somewhere in the 760 crank hp range according to the generous maths ) Though that number is heavily optimistic. Heads are Promaxx 190cc Aluminums. 2.02/1.6 valves going to be calling PAC Springs soon to have them help out on some new beehives for the cam. Stud girdles, and custom length pushrods and still debating on rocker choice. Cam powerband is 1800 - 6800rpm and is a small base circle cam.
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Old Jan 27, 2020 | 04:29 PM
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I used the stock short block with AFR190 heads, cam and intake. First a few years with Vortech V1 supercharger, about 10 psi boost.
( Stock 1984 block, stock crank, stock rods, stock pistons and stock bolts. )

Then replaced the supercharger with a turbo that made 627 hp to the wheels at 4200 rpm. 800 lbs ft @ 4000 rpm.
I ran 11.14 sec @ 126 mph with a 1.72 sec 60 ft that year.

Next year I had changed to a bigger turbo that made more power but a bit slower to spool up..
I ran 10.86 sec @ 134.5 mph with a slower 1.83 sec 60 ft.

Later that year I opened up the exhaust and that made a big differance until the engine exploded a few days later.
The direct cause was rod failure but the main caps showed sign of major cap walk,

I would say that with a good tune the stock block can last a while at 700 hp. A while can be days or years


That boost controller, is that a type of 'BOV'? If it is then I think that it is the wrong way to control boost on a centrifugal supercharger. The supercharger will actually run harder when the BOV is open.
I my opinion this is the correct way to reduce top end boost.
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...estrictor.html





Last edited by JoBy; Jan 27, 2020 at 04:30 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JoBy
I used the stock short block with AFR190 heads, cam and intake. First a few years with Vortech V1 supercharger, about 10 psi boost.
( Stock 1984 block, stock crank, stock rods, stock pistons and stock bolts. )

Then replaced the supercharger with a turbo that made 627 hp to the wheels at 4200 rpm. 800 lbs ft @ 4000 rpm.
I ran 11.14 sec @ 126 mph with a 1.72 sec 60 ft that year.

Next year I had changed to a bigger turbo that made more power but a bit slower to spool up..
I ran 10.86 sec @ 134.5 mph with a slower 1.83 sec 60 ft.

Later that year I opened up the exhaust and that made a big differance until the engine exploded a few days later.
The direct cause was rod failure but the main caps showed sign of major cap walk,

I would say that with a good tune the stock block can last a while at 700 hp. A while can be days or years


That boost controller, is that a type of 'BOV'? If it is then I think that it is the wrong way to control boost on a centrifugal supercharger. The supercharger will actually run harder when the BOV is open.
I my opinion this is the correct way to reduce top end boost.
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...estrictor.html
Hey JoBy, hoped you would chime in! I didnt actually know about the intake restrictors! I'll look at them and see if they can be adjusted via a **** or controller. I figured you had used the factory block to a point. Its crazy that you had 700hp on stock block! i know my 84 is a 010 casting no. block so that may be the case for yours. but you saying main cap walk was apparent definitely seals the deal on going for a dart SHP block.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 08:59 AM
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I would think if you splayed the mains it wouldn't have exhibited cap walk imo. The 010 blocks are nice. Iirc the dart block comes ready to be a 383 it just needs the bores set up. Something to think about also is the block is a bit heavier than a stock casting.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 10:11 AM
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Personally, I'd go with the aftermarket block if my goals were FI and 700+ hp.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 10:36 AM
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Agreed.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 01:01 PM
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Stock block is way stronger than people think.

700 hp easy. You are pushing a 3300 lb sportscar, not a 6500 lb pickup truck with a load of dirt up a hill.

you are wasting $$ with a bottom end build.
you should put that money in the top end.

and dont wimp out and go ls motor. They arent really any stronger.

the only way id consider all that stuff is if i was rebuilding it anyways, or wanted piece of mind during say, an open road race event (100 miles at 200 mph)

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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
and dont wimp out and go ls motor. They arent really any stronger.
LMFAO.
I typically read some absurd old-school mentality stuff here in the C4 section that makes me facepalm my eyes crossed, but this one almost made me put it through my head.


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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
LMFAO.
I typically read some absurd old-school mentality stuff here in the C4 section that makes me facepalm my eyes crossed, but this one almost made me put it through my head.
Some us old schoolers were making big power with sbc when you were in your diapers lol
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by JoBy
That boost controller, is that a type of 'BOV'? If it is then I think that it is the wrong way to control boost on a centrifugal supercharger. The supercharger will actually run harder when the BOV is open.
I my opinion this is the correct way to reduce top end boost.
https://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/produ...estrictor.html
I hate to go OT here, but this made me think of something that I've wondered for years:
Why don't we put the TB before the compressor and control boost with our throttle? Side benefit: Very low load on the compressor/drive when running at part throttle.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by TommyFox
Some us old schoolers were making big power with sbc when you were in your diapers lol
Most of you older guys have a 30 year jump-start on us and we still managed to beat most of you to a single-digit highway cruiser.
It also gives us completely different definitions of "big power".
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
I hate to go OT here, but this made me think of something that I've wondered for years:
Why don't we put the TB before the compressor and control boost with our throttle? Side benefit: Very low load on the compressor/drive when running at part throttle.
Poor throttle response, harder to build idle vacuum, reduced idle air controller/idle valve efficiency, high vacuum pulls oil through the seals and causes premature failure, and difficulty tuning tip-in and acceleration enrichment.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 03:19 PM
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Huh. None of those really make any sense to me, except for maybe pulling oil.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 03:50 PM
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My comments about the LS Motor - if you get detonation it will kill it just the same as an SBC.

LS people making big power are doing so having learned from decades of gearheads making mistAkes on the SBC.

inadequate fuel systems, tricking out a coolant temp sensor with a resistor as your ‘sole source’ of providing extra fuel for nitrous or boost (bc no one knew how to tune), lack of meth/water inj (theyve been around for ever but it seems no one used them in the 80s to 90s efi hot rod years), lack of timing retard (again bc noone knew how to tune)...

make the same mistakes on an ls motor and it will fail just the same


Last edited by dizwiz24; Jan 28, 2020 at 03:55 PM.
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Old Jan 28, 2020 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
Huh. None of those really make any sense to me, except for maybe pulling oil.
Putting the throttle body that far away from the intake causes a lot of issues.

Low air speed during idle/cruise means that cracking the throttle open will cause a hesitation until the air makes it to the intake.
This makes throttle body mounted idle air controllers less efficient, since their effect will have a delay and closed loop idle will be harder to maintain.

For the same reason, its hard to tune accel enrichment with EFI (the fuel injected equivalent of the accelerator pump) because the air and fuel are entering at 2 different points.
Tuning accel enrichment fueling with a carburetor is easier on a draw-through setup than a draw through throttle body EFI setup.

Its also harder to build idle vacuum because of the extra plenum volume and multiple possible leak points. Can still be done with the right precautions though.

And on turbochargers and centrifugal superchargers, having the compressor under vacuum for long periods can pull the oil through the seals.
Its a lot worse on a turbocharger since the oil is pressurized so differential pressure is even higher.

It can be done, but its just not worth all of the downsides.
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