When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Good argument.
As much as I love geeking out over big bad brakes, I've not yet found a legitimate reason to upgrade the brakes on my Kart b/c the stock ones are way better than good enough.
Sorry Tom. Bad argument. Big brakes a consideration for your Kart? That weighs what? And you might go racing?
Here's a "legitimate reason": You like the crazy-wild in-your-face impact of overkill!
Love that wing! But would you please show us the data that the wing is a measurable improvement . . . in something? Or did I name it?
Man thanks for that info. I was kinda thinking the same.. see what happens with stock brakes (and race pads).
Do you have any build pics, or at least fully torn down pics? You seem to have gotten yours lighter than most I've seen. My cage I think will be a bit more substantial (it's being built to NASA race standards), but if I can get mine down to your weight pre-cage, I'd be really happy!
Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
JeremyG, I have a Kart also -an '89 that I've stripped and caged. I cut the w/s frame and halo off before caging and used a polycarbonate wind screen. My kart weighs 2280 w/o me in it and my fuel cell holds 8 gallons. I think pads and good brake fluid are all you'd need for track duty for two reasons:
1. the reduced weight of the car
2. The poor aero of the car. It definitely slows faster from just coming off the gas than my complete '92...and it doesn't want to coast down hills well either.
You might as well try it w/the stock brakes first; the pads are a consumable anyway and fluid is maintenance, so trying decent pads and fluids is barely any more $$ than normal PM/consumables and it may work just fine. We can recall that the Challenge cars used stock brake hardware and held up sufficiently, even with full bodied cars with cages.
My weight is with the cage. I think I am low on weight b/c I "chased" weight all over the place. Losing the w/s and Frame, the halo, even the front frame horns and bumper brace was surprisingly heavy, when I cut it off...adn I didn't add heavy rotors and calipers!
I want to get my cage to NASA spec, so I need to add another side bar, and a diagonal roof bar, I believe.
I made a thread pm the build, with pics and some vids. It's can be found, HERE.
.
Last edited by Tom400CFI; Feb 12, 2020 at 11:27 PM.
My plan was to change it to Speed density like you suggested and stick a filter on the TB. In the mean time, the engine is a poorly maintained turd, so I'm not stressing about it.
Cone filter with an airbox around it would work too. Something similar to what you'd buy for a truck from Volant or similar? Should be pretty easy to fab up a box to hide it, and then you can ensure you're getting fresh bottom air, with a little slit to get some from the front too?
Id also go with braided lines only because you can hang your calipers from them when changing pads (if you have to remove the calipers to do it).
OMG!!! That is perhaps the MOST DANGEROUS advice I've ever seen on a forum! The steel braid is nothing more than a protective sleeve covering the plastic pressure line inside. The threaded ends are simple compression fittings attached to that plastic inner hose. If anything it is more risky to hang your calipers from aftermarket lines, than from the factory ones.
My weight is with the cage. I think I am low on weight b/c I "chased" weight all over the place. Losing the w/s and Frame, the halo, even the front frame horns and bumper brace was surprisingly heavy, when I cut it off...adn I didn't add heavy rotors and calipers!
Your car is 180 lbs lighter than mine. I'm pretty sure it's not because of the brakes lol.
In the mean time, the engine is a poorly maintained turd, so I'm not stressing about it. 
