Can a esc module be bad and not throw a code? I have hesitation and cut out when wide open throttle sometimes and no service engine or codes. I put new ignition coil , ignition module, mas air flow sensor and still have the problem. I even checked all the ohms of the injectors and got 15.6 across all them so there good to. I'm leaning towards bad fuel pump since I don't have a light on and no codes. I checked the fuel pressure a while back and got 39 with valcum and 49 with out valcum . I didn't get to see what numbers where goin down the road tho. THOUGHTS??

 

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Can I unplug it and try to see what happens or will it retard the timing not plugged in ?

 

Bad ESC includes engine performance issues, engine stalling, the car not starting, and the engine not sparking. You can refer this link for your reference. Hopefully it can help you.
https://community.cartalk.com/t/bad-...l-module/81819

 

I just unplugged it and took it for a ride before work no hesitation or cutting out hell it seems to run stronger but I still have a stall sometimes when I push the clutch in to slow down to a stop sign iac? Tps volts need checked ?

 

One really strange thing about our L98 C4's is that when a Knock Sensor "fails" the engine runs "less timing" to avoid damaging the engine. The knock sensor overacting will also cause your car to run less timing, they fail both ways.

I thought mine was having a fuel problem but after driving a 1987 C4 and then getting into my 1988 C4 I was shocked at my loss of performance. The 1987 would spin the rear tires effortlessly whereas my 1988 C4 would never spin its tires. The difference was amazing. I tested the my knock sensor and it was not working. After replacing the sensor the car launches and runs much stronger. To test it you have the engine running and monitor the output voltage, while doing this simply take a metal wrench or hammer or whatever and bang on one of the cylinder heads. If the knock sensor is good you should see a signal being sent after the banging on the engine. If you don't get a signal then replace the Knock sensor. Just for good reference this is a great thing to do while flushing your coolant. The knock sensor is near the bottom of the engine cooling loop and dumps out some nasty stuff when removed.

The EGR valve can cause some big issues when it is not working properly. Be sure the entire EGR system is connected and working. Start at the EGR Vacuum Solenoid mounted near the thermostat, be sure it has a good source of vacuum and that the hoses and wires are all intact. To test the EGR valve for movement you disconnect the vacuum line to it and apply vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump. Upon applying vacuum the rod in the center of the EGR should move.

Adjusting the TPS is "critical" for a properly running L98 Corvette. Be careful with the IAC as I bought a replacement that had a different shape "Pintle" that would not work with my throttle body.

Just to keep my new Bosch injectors happy I run a bottle of B&G 44k Fuel System cleaner, this stuff works great and is not a "Snake Oil".

Best regards,
Chris

 

I I put a new knock sensor in to I forgot to mention that I also eliminated my EGR I had them program my chip for the elimination of the EGR. Is there a way to jump a couple wires on the plug for the ESC so that way it thinks it's plugged in and I don't have a check engine light on all the time instead of spending 80 bucks on a new esc

 

What year car do you have? Some of the ESC units are used on other platforms as well, and can be picked up for cheap off another car or truck at a junkyard.

 

87 corvette

 

I believe the module on your car is used on a lot of the 5.7/4.3 liter car and truck engines of that era. Is the label still on your module that you can tell me the three letter code?