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Made some more progress.
Removed the cats
Removed the starter
Removed the bell housing bolts
Removed the 6mm ball stud lock bolt
Had to stop there because I didn't have the 12mm hex tool to get the ball stud loose to get the bell housing off. Local stores were closed at this time.
Where can I get new studs and bolts for the manifolds? I am going to remove the old ones and chase the threads. I figure changing those out to new will make installation a lot easier and smoother once this all goes back together.
I am taking the Italian car shop attitude of, this will get done when it gets done,
Weather kind of went south over the weekend so I decided to finish up the front bumper. I took it off when I painted the car recently.
The bumper came out pretty good. Buffing this out will be a nightmare. But I plan go slow and do it by hand. I have some bumper support parts on the way. As soon as they show up I can get it back on the car.
I was able to locate a 12mm Hex wrench and loosen the ball stud and get the bell housing loose. I found metal shavings in the bell housing??? See pic. The edge of the clutch looks like its been rubbing something. What could that be. The inside of the bell housing looks ok??
Also there is a wire attached the oil pan inside a huge bolt. I can't see how to get that wire unplugged. Any ideas? It is insane how many wires are plugged into this thing. There is no way I ill get all of them back in place.
Should I replace the ballstud?
Last edited by Furias15x; Apr 7, 2020 at 11:29 PM.
The bolt attached to the pan is the oil level sensor. Be VERY careful and take the blue clip off, then unscrew the oil level sensor from the side of the pan. However, I'd wait to take the sensor out until the motor is out. The sensor shaft is long and can be difficult to get out with limited room under the car.
There must be something that caused that rubbing. Keep looking. When I replaced the clutch on my 96, I replaced everything. That was some time ago and some parts were getting hard to find even back then. If you can find them, definitely replace the ball stud; and the clutch operating fork, if you can find one (remember it's for a pull style clutch and is different from the more common push style) and the budget can afford it.
Well, as to the clutch stud, the large print says LT1 and LT4, and the fine print says for all 6 speed, , LT1, LT4 and LT5 engines; Well that can't be ; the LT 1 and LT4 clutch stud part number is 10227810; the LT5 clutch stud is 10150085; not the same number. I've seen pictures of both side by side and the are definitely of different heights. However I suspect that the clutch stud in question is for an LT1 /LT4; All engines do use the same clutch fork, p/n 10065210. Hope this helps.
Well, as to the clutch stud, the large print says LT1 and LT4, and the fine print says for all 6 speed, , LT1, LT4 and LT5 engines; Well that can't be ; the LT 1 and LT4 clutch stud part number is 10227810; the LT5 clutch stud is 10150085; not the same number. I've seen pictures of both side by side and the are definitely of different heights. However I suspect that the clutch stud in question is for an LT1 /LT4; All engines do use the same clutch fork, p/n 10065210. Hope this helps.
Future gear head helped me get the motor out yesterday. He worked the hoist and I wiggled things around and came right out. Then he said we had to go fishing. So we did, I mean what are you going to do when they say we have to go fishing?
I wish I could have told you earlier about how to remove stuck fasteners or bolts in a Corvette. I use something called KROIL Penetrating Oil to loosen things up first. It is available on Amazon or even Eastwood but beware it is not the cheapest penetrating oil out there.
Anyway when you have a stuck bolt you heat it up with a Torch or even a good HOT air gun will do. Then liberally apply the KROIL on the bolt at the point where it enters the block. Kroil oil can be pulled into the joint using the heat. On tougher bolts before I get a longer extension I will apply the Kroil several times. This material is absolutely amazing and works like no other penetrating oil I have ever used. I have yet to find a fastener that it won't work on.
My Corvette Toolbox has a bottle of Kroil in it at all times. It works on anything that is frozen due to corrosion or dis-similar metals. Try it and it will be in your tool box forever...
Nice work!
Couple of questions as I’m undertaking this in the next couple of months.
Where did you bolt the hoist chain to? Also, I’m assuming you removed the bell housing with the engine in the car? Many people suggest removing the engine with bell housing attached. Curious about your lessons learned..
Nice work!
Couple of questions as I’m undertaking this in the next couple of months.
Where did you bolt the hoist chain to? Also, I’m assuming you removed the bell housing with the engine in the car? Many people suggest removing the engine with bell housing attached. Curious about your lessons learned..
I bolted the front chain bolt to head where the coil was mounted. I bolted the chain to the last intake bolt. I used grade 8 bolts.
Then I removed the head to find this. Might just derail the whole project.
Last edited by Furias15x; Apr 11, 2020 at 03:40 PM.
Don't let "first impressions" discourage you; get in their with a power washer (or hot tank) and some WD40 (as in water displacing formulae number forty). It just looks like a blown head gasket; it'll probably clean up just fine.
I've learned that with my C4 corvette, that taking my time is the most important thing. If I get in a hurry, I break things, and misdiagnose a LOT. When I step back and think about things, I find it's a lot more fun to work on these cars, and it's much more rewarding. Since nobody is going much of anywhere these days, it's not like I have anywhere to go anyway!
