Half Shaft U-Joints
Thread Starter
Pro
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From: Wichita Kansas
FedEx Bowl 4 St. Jude '09
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Half Shaft U-Joints
Just a quick question... I replaced my rear wheel bearings last year, which was pretty easy. But now I would like to change the U-Joints in the half shafts. I have been reading up on this topic here and there and basically it sounds like a nightmare, having to remove everything from the exhaust to some of the rear suspension parts. I was wondering if this could be accoplished by pulling the rear wheel bearings off again? Would this give you enough room to get the half shafts out?
Thanks
Jason
Thanks
Jason
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Phila., PA burbs
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
Here's a link that Scorp made that explains the process very well
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
[Modified by TA, 2:51 PM 11/22/2002]
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
[Modified by TA, 2:51 PM 11/22/2002]
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 738
Likes: 67
From: Wichita Kansas
FedEx Bowl 4 St. Jude '09
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (TA)
Here's a link that Scorp made that explains the process very well
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
[Modified by TA, 2:51 PM 11/22/2002]
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette...nts/index.html
[Modified by TA, 2:51 PM 11/22/2002]
What exactly does the camber brace do, in case I dont get it marked according?
Thanks
Jason
Racer
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Honolulu Hawaii
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
When I changed both of my rear wheel bearings, I had to remove the halfshafts to get access to the large torx bolts on the inside. Removing the halfshafts were a painful 2-3 hours just for the halfshafts.. Luckily I when to the hobby shop where they have hydraulic lifts. Much easier to remove them when you're standing instead of on your back.
-Tim
-Tim
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: West Islip New York
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
Excellent write up and photos !!
The only thing I'd change/recommend is that you get new strap kits for the u joints, they're only $5.
The camber brace (spindle rod) controls how the rear tires sit with relation to the ground. Perfectly vertical = 0 camber, top in = negative camber, top out = positive camber.
OK, another recommendation. Since the spindle rods are coming off, leave them off and get the Vette Brakes camber struts. These are much better pieces and worth the upgrade.
http://www.vettebrakes.com/
The only thing I'd change/recommend is that you get new strap kits for the u joints, they're only $5.
The camber brace (spindle rod) controls how the rear tires sit with relation to the ground. Perfectly vertical = 0 camber, top in = negative camber, top out = positive camber.
OK, another recommendation. Since the spindle rods are coming off, leave them off and get the Vette Brakes camber struts. These are much better pieces and worth the upgrade.
http://www.vettebrakes.com/
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,870
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From: Long Island, NY
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
Removing both halfshafts should take you about 1.5 hours.
I removed the other leaf spring bolt, the tie rod bolt, and the outer camber arm bolt. A total of 3 bolts.
Vic
I removed the other leaf spring bolt, the tie rod bolt, and the outer camber arm bolt. A total of 3 bolts.
Vic
Team Owner
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From: Boston, MA
You can remove the camber rod at either end, but the way in that writeup is easier. Getting the large bolt back into the knuckle side of it can be seriously hard because of some small bumps inside the rod.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,019
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From: down that one road next to that big tree
Re: (scorp508)
the half shafts are only hard the first time or if you haven't torn into the suspension before. the most important thing i can add is buying QUALITY U-joints and having a shop press them in. a true OE spicer joint will be around $50 each pressing at a shop is normally $10-15 each. spend the money on them !! i got somewhere in the neighborhood of 500 miles out of a mid america joint before i tore it in half. a OE spicer will last years and years, 100k miles is possible, the factory used these for a reason & they are some of the best joints on the market. check your phone books for driveline shops !! your money will be well spent.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Sun City West Az
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
If your 94 is like my 92, do yourself a favor. Don't mess with the camber bolt and it's adjustment. There are 2 smaller bolts that attach the entire brace to the 3rd member. They are just above the camber adjustment bolt. Remove those 2 bolts and the whole camber rod with attaching bracket will slide off the rear end. If you do this last after removing the u joint caps on the 3rd member yoke and having lowered the spring, the wheel will just push out by hand pressure with the 1/2 shaft attached at the spindle hub. that way you don't have to be concerned about camber adjustment and all the related marking. Hope this helps.
[Modified by ittlfly, 6:12 AM 11/23/2002]
[Modified by ittlfly, 6:12 AM 11/23/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,019
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From: down that one road next to that big tree
Re: (scorp508)
$50/ea. is lunacy.:crazy:
Beefy Cold Forged Spicers are even 60% of that cost. :cool:
Beefy Cold Forged Spicers are even 60% of that cost. :cool:
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,521
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From: West Islip New York
Re: (gtsyellow)
where are those sold? the forged big ole non greeseables are what i was after, is there a cheap net source? most the spicers i've seen for $30 aren't the OE spicer.
[Modified by 1MoorTym, 9:25 AM 11/23/2002]
Safety Car
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From: Jacksonville Fl
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
For the half shafts, other than good quality normal hand tools ( use snapon/mac/matco sockets and save yourself a lot of rounded bolt headaches ), in order to do it quickly on the garage floor, all you need is a few jackstands and couple of 12" long 3/8 extensions.
Basically, after jacking the rear end up, remove tires, remove the outer tie rod ends, remove the spring bolt nuts and washers, use the long extensions with a 5/16 socket to remove the inner u-joint straps by rotating the shafts to the right position for each bolt, then remove the inner straps the same way, pry the wheel hub assembly out enough to work the shafts out.
After changing the joints, installation is reverse of this and your all done with all four half shaft u-joints in about 3 & 1/5 hours.
It's not as hard as a lot of people make it out to be. I think most people take more stuff apart then they have too.
Basically, after jacking the rear end up, remove tires, remove the outer tie rod ends, remove the spring bolt nuts and washers, use the long extensions with a 5/16 socket to remove the inner u-joint straps by rotating the shafts to the right position for each bolt, then remove the inner straps the same way, pry the wheel hub assembly out enough to work the shafts out.
After changing the joints, installation is reverse of this and your all done with all four half shaft u-joints in about 3 & 1/5 hours.
It's not as hard as a lot of people make it out to be. I think most people take more stuff apart then they have too.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Jacksonville Fl
Re: Half Shaft U-Joints (Jstockton)
I just looked at scorps instructions...he removes the camber bolts...I did not. It may have made it easier to remove the shafts, but I did not have to get an alignment after I did mine because I did not mess with anything that sets the alignment.
So, if you want to save a trip to the alignment shop...leave the inner camber bolts untouched.
[Modified by BBA, 5:04 PM 11/23/2002]
So, if you want to save a trip to the alignment shop...leave the inner camber bolts untouched.
[Modified by BBA, 5:04 PM 11/23/2002]
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 83,383
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From: Boston, MA
So, if you want to save a trip to the alignment shop...leave the inner camber bolts untouched.
