OK, I've owned the LT4 for 20 years. It has almost 32,000 miles on it. I have kept it immaculate but I have never checked the clutch fluid. Spring cleaning, I pulled back the ECM exposing the top of the clutch fluid reservoir. The fill cap was really tight and it took channel lock pliers to loosen it. The fluid inside was black and really, really UGLY!!!.

I have heard of others that had issues trying to drain the system down at the slave cylinder and ending up with clutch problems. Some recommend using a turkey baster to remove only the top fluid in the reservoir and replacing just it, frequently diluting the bad fluid over time. Looking for recommendations please. I need to do something with the black tar looking fluid in there now.

 

Yes, what you describe is called "the Ranger Method" and it does work well. Take the baster and remove the old stuff. Put in new fluid and then pump your clutch steady with regular pressure for about 25 times. Then uses the baste to pull out then replace new fluid and start the pumping again. Do this 4-5 times then go for a ride. You may have to do The Ranger method a couple of more times after that, but it does work.

 

When I did mine, there is a bleeder on the slave cylinder, all 96's should have it, you can jack up the car a bit from the passenger side and get to it and let it gravity bleed. If you do the turkey baster method you don't get the dirty fluid from the slave cylinder and whats in the line. just jack up the car a bit, crack the bleeder loose and let it gravity bleed (make sure you keep topping the reservoir up when its going down or you will get air in the system)

 

I should add if you can't get the bleeder loose don't break it, then use the turkey method.

 

I think I'm going to do the baster method. Don't really want to mess with the slave cylinder if I don't need to. Besides, at 71 years old I don't do too well laying under cars any more. Get dizzy.

 

Sure thing, just a suggestion, whatever works best for you. At 71 I don't blame you LOL

 

When the cap is removed from the top of the reservoir there is a small rubber "cup" inside. Pulled it out and it was caked with black fluid. It does not look like it is made to expand and contract like the ones in standard master brake fluid cylinders. Planning on wiping it off with a cloth. I have a small glue syringe that I cut the nozzle some and will use it to suck out old fluid. After refilling the reservoir can the black cup be folded up some or is it reinserted in the expanded position? Any thing else I should be aware of other that spillage and cleanliness?

 

Just an update. I have owned my LT4 for 20 years and I finally got around to flushing the clutch fluid from the top reservoir. I did not want to mess with the lower slave clutch cylinder. It was a simple task. Remove two small bolts holding the ECM in place and slide it out of the way without unplugging any wires. I had a small glue syringe (get them at hobby shop) laying around for years from making an RC controlled plane. It was used to glue balsa wood panels with Elmer's wood glue. I cut the tip off to make the hole a little bigger. Using it as a baster it was PERFECT for sucking the dirty fluid out. No worry, not a drop of old fluid dripped out. About two syringe full removed old fluid, wiped empty cylinder with lint free towel and then refilled the same way with new. A meat baster will work but I can't imagine anything working any better than the glue syringe. No drips, drops or mess to harm your paint.

Replaced the cap and pumped the clutch about 25 times and repeated the steps again, about 15 times. It's May now and I am late taking the Vette out of storage due to the Covid-19 lockdown. But at the end of summer I will repeat the process again before putting it back for winter storage and it should be good for years of light driving.

Stay Healthy guys (and girls)!!! Wear your masks and keep social distances. Protect yourself and us seniors too.

 

I do the ranger method a once every year (2-3 empty/fill/pump cycles at one time) as regular maintenance, usually during the oil change and fluid/chassis inspections.