85 with Vortec Head Cam Advice
Just picked up some freshly rebuilt (3 angle valve job, new springs, seals, etc.) vortec heads for a steal. I also already have the scoggin dickey vortec head TPI intake manifold waiting to go on. I will be installing them on my 85, which still has the stock 624 heads. I currently have an edelbrock high flo manifold, edelbrock runners, and ported plenum. It still has the stock solid lifters. Stock camshaft too, as far as I know. The car runs beautifully, has fantastic oil pressure, etc. I'm going to install the vortec heads and scoggin dickey intake to gain some power. Should I change the camshaft while I'm doing the heads? The car idles perfectly right now and I'm not looking for that lumpy big camshaft idle sound. I'd still like it to idle like stock or close to stock anyways. I'd like to gain as much power as I can with the vortec heads so if I can pick up a considerable amount more by changing the camshaft, while I'm in there, I will. If there is a lot to be gained from a cam swap, with those heads, I'm all for it. If so, does anyone know of a proven combo for these heads? What camshaft would work best for me with those heads? I understand that vortec heads won't allow a real high lift cam, which I am ok with and I am not going to have any machine work done on these heads to change them, from what they currently are. I have no idea of what cam would work best with them and it's all a bit confusing to me as there are so many options. Also, should I stick with the stock solid lifters or go with a retrofit roller setup on my stock 85 block? I'm also going to have to ask how I will determine what length pushrods to use and what the best rocker arm ratio to use with this setup would be, once I figure out what camshaft I will be going with. Thanks in advance for any light anyone can shed on this for me.
If you have the stock cam it has 202-206 @ .050, around .420 lift 114 lsa. It is not a solid lifter cam unless someone put one in. Am sure someone will comment on what cam would work with your upgrades.
Lunati 256 voodoo with those heads/intake your car will pull like a 383 guaranteed.
Smooth but throaty idle, instead of pulling when yo uhit pasing gear its going to smoke the tires. If you have a good ear you can tell its got a cam but isnt rumpity
Passes smog easy too.
Yrs ago did a $900 10:1 shortblock, performer heads with some work which arent as good as your vortecs, ported base+runners.
It was an Iroc with those lousy 2xx gears. I was shocked how hard it pulled, bet it would run 13s all day.
Smooth but throaty idle, instead of pulling when yo uhit pasing gear its going to smoke the tires. If you have a good ear you can tell its got a cam but isnt rumpity
Passes smog easy too.
Yrs ago did a $900 10:1 shortblock, performer heads with some work which arent as good as your vortecs, ported base+runners.
It was an Iroc with those lousy 2xx gears. I was shocked how hard it pulled, bet it would run 13s all day.
Last edited by cv67; Apr 12, 2020 at 01:21 PM.
Thanks for the comments so far. Just to confirm, the Lunati 256 wouldn't be too much lift for the stock vortecs considering the bosses haven't been machined down to allow more lift, etc, correct? And that will work with my non roller lifters, correct? I see they advertise .454/.468 (intake/exhaust). I will be buying whatever is recommended to me on here cause I know you guys will give me good feedback on what would be best. Also, it would be stupid to do the heads and leave the stock cam in it, right? And yes, I'm definately not looking for the lumpy/lopey idle sound. I'd like it to sound as close to a smooth stock idle as I can get. Thanks!
Last edited by tuneportbeast; Apr 12, 2020 at 06:08 PM.
No consistent answer however .420 is the minimum maximum. Some claim .450-..470 so.it varies from head to head. The l31 cam had .423 lift.with 1.5 rockers. It might be worth while to have guides reworked for more lift giving more options.
There are "stock lift" racing cams the use .390 intake and .410 exhaust that will work.
There are "stock lift" racing cams the use .390 intake and .410 exhaust that will work.
If even .450 is the maximum safe lift I could get from the unaltered vortecs, how much would I really have to gain, making sure I install a cam with lift numbers under that, when the stock cam has .410/.423 (intake/exhaust) already? Would it even be worth the trouble? This might be a stupid question, but what if I kept the stock cam and added 1.6 rockers to the vortecs, bumping the overall lift up slightly anyways? I just really want to ditch the stock 624 heads for some actual great performing heads and got an incredible deal on these freshly rebuilt vortecs and would really like to keep the low budget theme going. I'm going to end up buying new roller rocker arms/pushrods for it and I don't mind spending the money for a new cam too if it makes sense. Opinions?
Vortecs are far better than the 624s. Getting the guides cut down should not be expensive. It's really just disassemble cut guides and reassemble. You could disassemble and reassemble youself take bare heads in. You would need to keep everything together a marker to number the valve and a 16 Ziplocs for all the related pieces for that valve. Meaning valve, spring, keepers, retainer, cap seals, and spring shim if present.
a
The "stock lift" cams aren't stock they are designed for a racing class mostly ovals. Isky was making them when I was doing ovals.
a
The "stock lift" cams aren't stock they are designed for a racing class mostly ovals. Isky was making them when I was doing ovals.












