VATS bypass successful....sorta
Issue #1
I had/have a VATS issue.I ohm'ed out both my keys. 681 Ohms which is key code 3. Successfully soldered in resistor. Had a '95 T/A that I did the same thing to as well.
Tried to start it immediately after soldering and nothing. I tried a few more times...nothing. After letting it sit for 10 minutes with the key on (procedure read elsewhere I believe) came back and nothing. Went back under dash and verified connections by testing continuity of the resistor, it is 668. All good there because low side is 650 for this key. Tried it again it fired right up and had done so flawlessly for a little less than 24 hours. Was filling the cooling system this AM so a few starts were involved. Just about finished up and now it's doing exactly what it was before I "thought" I had fixed the issue. It now won't start and the same SECURITY light is solid when I try to crank it over. I hear the fuel pump pressurize for the obligatory 2 seconds and all lights and gauges work I believe.
Issue #2
Changed CTS and the connector was shot so that was replaced as well using low temp solder heat shrink connectors. Only did one wire at a time so as not to get CORNfused.
Now when it's plugged in and idling the fans will come on if turn on the AC but they will not activate from temperature and the car overheats. BUT, when I unplug the connector when the car is up to temp and climbing 210 ish possibly higher haven't lasered it yet, the fans come on when I UNPLUG the CTS connector. What is that all about?
I'm interested in gleaning some info about the VATS relay and it's location. Also, is there a workaround or a direct replacement if that's the culprit? I appreciate any help.
Last edited by Chris THE Welder; Apr 23, 2020 at 01:32 PM.
This is that link:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...orkaround.html
Amazon Bypass Module:
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