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I’d like to take it out, but if I can’t is there a problem leaving it? Can you help me ID the other hoses? If I were to try to start it right now, would that be ok? Assuming, obviously, that I get the belt and pulley back on. I’m going to keep removing poppies as much as I can but I want to make sure I’m not risking anything if I leave some parts on that are buried. Particularly the pipe that goes down the front of the engine. I don’t know where that goes or what it does.
I can’t remember 100% but I thought there was a line to the cat a line to the exhaust manifolds and a line back to the air box. I think you could start it without any worries.
I just did the AIR delete on my 85 last week. I left the original hoses on the manifold check valves as my check valves leak just a little bit of exhaust. I just clamped a large bolt in each hose for now. That metal crossover tube was a royal pain. Unless you want to remove your AC compressor, I don't think it is possible to get out in one piece.
I ran a new vacuum line to replace what used to go to the air solenoids. It was a good opportunity to go over all the vacuum lines on the car and I found a few hooked up incorrectly.
I had a check engine light after removing the AIR system, I didn't check the code but once I cleared the memory and reconnected the AIR solenoids it went away. The solenoid assemblies come apart which makes it easier to leave them connected and tie them up out of the way somewhere.
I am installing an offroad dual exhaust from Allen's Stainless Exhaust, so I won't have a cat to worry about.
I can’t remember 100% but I thought there was a line to the cat a line to the exhaust manifolds and a line back to the air box. I think you could start it without any worries.
With the check valves installed at manifolds and cat line there will be no issues starting the car. There will likely be a small exhaust leak at idle though. It was annoying enough that I plugged mine. I'd like to remove them but they are rusted in place so it may have to wait until I do headers of some sort. The manifold air tubes appear delicate and it would suck to break one.
Other than maybe some extra noise, is there any danger to an exhaust leak? My goal is 100% clean but I just want to make sure it runs ok before I remove much more, so if I end up having to put something back it's less work (I doubt I'll have to put anything back, but...just want to see it run I guess)
Other than maybe some extra noise, is there any danger to an exhaust leak? My goal is 100% clean but I just want to make sure it runs ok before I remove much more, so if I end up having to put something back it's less work (I doubt I'll have to put anything back, but...just want to see it run I guess)
Carbon Monoxide poisoning causing sleepyness and death.
Other than maybe some extra noise, is there any danger to an exhaust leak? My goal is 100% clean but I just want to make sure it runs ok before I remove much more, so if I end up having to put something back it's less work (I doubt I'll have to put anything back, but...just want to see it run I guess)
I mean... exhaust also comes out the tailpipe. I can’t imagine there’s any more danger of CO poisoning from a small leak under the hood...
It’s kind of a joke I should have used an emoji or LOL or something. But exhaust leaks under the bonnet that make there way into the cabin have caused tragedy in they past.
So I got it all back together. Car runs great. I know it’s not supposed to affect horsepower but it feels stronger. I think i had a small vacuum leak.
only thing is that the bracket for the alternator connection is too long. It doesn’t connect. I’m not sure how big an issue that is, it’s very solid as is and doesn’t appear to be in danger of moving. Thoughts?
It’s WAY too long This seems to work without issues
So I got it all back together. Car runs great. I know it’s not supposed to affect horsepower but it feels stronger. I think i had a small vacuum leak.
only thing is that the bracket for the alternator connection is too long. It doesn’t connect. I’m not sure how big an issue that is, it’s very solid as is and doesn’t appear to be in danger of moving. Thoughts?
It’s WAY too long This seems to work without issues
There can be a fair bit of vibration on the alternator and pulley assembly so it would be better to have a bracket. I don’t know why it doesn’t fit but maybe your alternator has been replaced with a different model. Your alternator looks different to mine, mine is a Bosch but I always figured mine was non genuine.
Edit: you could always cut and drill that bracket or fabricate a new one.
Last edited by GregMartin; Apr 27, 2020 at 07:11 PM.
I’ll get access to a drill press and put another hole in the thing. Not a huge deal I guess.
EDIT: I contacted the person that sold me this bracket (another forum member), and he said that the idea is you remove the rear bracket from the alternator and rotate the alternator outwards. Personally, I'm not sure why you would do that. Maybe it's for belt fitment? I'm thinking I'll just drill another hole, as I'd prefer not to move the alternator around.
Yes you do rotate the alternator outwards and the rear support no longer fits. The upper support from the eliminator is enough.
The rear alternator support isn't important like the rear Compressor support, because the compressor bracket is weak-*** pot metal and the engine torque will cause it to crack and also take out your tensioner. Although the bracket on 84-87 isnt as shitty as what comes on 88+ in my opinion.
Yes you do rotate the alternator outwards and the rear support no longer fits. The upper support from the eliminator is enough.
The rear alternator support isn't important like the rear Compressor support, because the compressor bracket is weak-*** pot metal and the engine torque will cause it to crack and also take out your tensioner. Although the bracket on 84-87 isnt as shitty as what comes on 88+ in my opinion.
Used all brackets and stock size belt. I need to see who’s I went with on the delete
My Project '89 has been dormant for 6 years. $23k in parts invested. Originally became stuck installing long tube Melrose headers.
Problem was my stock fuel line on the RH inside frame rail. I am using Russell PTFE stainless braided fuel line from the fuel filter forward.
Re-routing is a real BITCH but am using Redhorse AN hose fittings. Reading this because today i decided the A.I.R. pump and diverter valve MUST go
with so little room to work. I already have the bracket. Seems like it must happen.
Attachment 48343035 I bought the $99 one off Ebay. It even came with an aluminum pulley instead of plastic. Note hole used to keep factory serpentine belt.
