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93 Header install advice

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Old May 8, 2020 | 11:09 AM
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Default 93 Header install advice

Been years scene I have installed any performance parts on a C-4 LT-1 motor been working on LS -motors . I have a set of 15 year old TR-Y long tube headers never in stalled coated ,putting them on my 93 LT-1 auto ..
Any advice on the install and header bolts some better that others all about the same ??.. Thanks . I have Ben installing headers for years sometimes everyone needs a revue .. Some people know it all I guess I am not one of them .. Thanks for any help ..
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Old May 27, 2020 | 04:26 AM
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I did this on my 93, pretty straight forward job. couple tips. I highly recommend ARP header bolts with 5/16" head. gives you ability to get at least a box wrench on all bolts to get tight enough. open end 3/8 wont cut it. they'll come loose and waste gaskets, also insist on Felpro 1406 gaskets(not the junk that come with headers) you will see in pictures I show both. they will slide in very easy from underneath with some prep work. not sure if you have the luxury of a lift but I did mine on car ramps and was high enough. you will want to remove A/C compressor alternator and ASR, for really easy access. on passenger side you need to remove dip stick tube, and coolant temp sender from head. obviously you will loose about a gallon + of coolant. underneath on driver side it it best to remove the oil Temp sender(not a must) but it is probably brittle and if you break it good luck finding a replacement. cost me $50+ shipping for a NOS that I was very lucky to find and it's right in the path to shove them in place. one other thing I had to do was pull my motor mount bolts one at a time and stick back in from the opposite direction cause tips of bolts hit and I didn't want to damage ceramic coating. as far as removal of stock most likely all studs from manifolds to cats broke. there's a bracket holding passenger cat that 2 bolts are the bell housing bolts. This was my toughest task. I cut bracket. as far as cats to exhaust the DS will probably break all studs as well. I eliminated all EGR crap. if you are too you will need block off plates for back of intake. I made them with aluminum plate.








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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMAMBA
I did this on my 93, pretty straight forward job. couple tips. I highly recommend ARP header bolts with 5/16" head. gives you ability to get at least a box wrench on all bolts to get tight enough. open end 3/8 wont cut it. they'll come loose and waste gaskets, also insist on Felpro 1406 gaskets(not the junk that come with headers) you will see in pictures I show both. they will slide in very easy from underneath with some prep work. not sure if you have the luxury of a lift but I did mine on car ramps and was high enough. you will want to remove A/C compressor alternator and ASR, for really easy access. on passenger side you need to remove dip stick tube, and coolant temp sender from head. obviously you will loose about a gallon + of coolant. underneath on driver side it it best to remove the oil Temp sender(not a must) but it is probably brittle and if you break it good luck finding a replacement. cost me $50+ shipping for a NOS that I was very lucky to find and it's right in the path to shove them in place. one other thing I had to do was pull my motor mount bolts one at a time and stick back in from the opposite direction cause tips of bolts hit and I didn't want to damage ceramic coating. as far as removal of stock most likely all studs from manifolds to cats broke. there's a bracket holding passenger cat that 2 bolts are the bell housing bolts. This was my toughest task. I cut bracket. as far as cats to exhaust the DS will probably break all studs as well. I eliminated all EGR crap. if you are too you will need block off plates for back of intake. I made them with aluminum plate.







wow, installing tpis 1 3/4 and later, arh 1 7/8” (stepped) headers was not near is involvd As all this

for the tpis i had to remove the starter and reinstall after putting the headers on

for the arh i had an issue with it contacting the swingout of my canton road race oil pan. I needed 1/8 spacers off the heads (and gaskets on both sides of the spacers).

i used cheap black oxide allen head bolts for the headers. They did require a re-torque buT have held fine ever since.

i used allen head bolts bc it was easier for me to get an allen ‘key’ into tight spots then a wrench. I could also use short allen keys that attach to a ratchet wrench.

(no doubt though arp is the better hardware)

got rid of the egr junk at the same time


Good luck !

Last edited by dizwiz24; May 27, 2020 at 07:07 AM.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:45 AM
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When I installed EM headers I didn't have any issues. They were expensive but well worth it.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 08:13 AM
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Aside from switching to the later style starter, my melrose just slid right in. Granted the early cars have a lot less going on I'd imagine it would be similar.

Definitely spring for good hardware and the 1406 gaskets. My headers and heads were matched (out of the box) to the 1406 size. No leaks and super easy to work with compared to the cheap metal ones.

Last edited by 84 4+3; May 27, 2020 at 08:14 AM.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dizwiz24
wow, installing tpis 1 3/4 and later, arh 1 7/8” (stepped) headers was not near is involvd As all this

for the tpis i had to remove the starter and reinstall after putting the headers on

for the arh i had an issue with it contacting the swingout of my canton road race oil pan. I needed 1/8 spacers off the heads (and gaskets on both sides of the spacers).

i used cheap black oxide allen head bolts for the headers. They did require a re-torque buT have held fine ever since.

i used allen head bolts bc it was easier for me to get an allen ‘key’ into tight spots then a wrench. I could also use short allen keys that attach to a ratchet wrench.

(no doubt though arp is the better hardware)

got rid of the egr junk at the same time


Good luck !
yeah not all completely necessary but made job easier. I didn't mess with starter. And I accidentally bumped the oil temp switch cracking it and had a tough time finding replacement. If you at least aware you could skip removing if careful. My #1 an allen wouldn't fit. I did buy a set of them first but didn't work. ARH I realize much better quality. The Hookers fit really good, they're just very tight on #1&7 tubes.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKMAMBA






sbc have been notorious for stripping out header bolt threads in the heads, so here is what i do. get a 3/8 - 16 bottom tap and chase the threads all the way to the bottoms. then i use a header bolt that is 1 1/4" under head length. also use a double gasket

[QUOTE=dizwiz24;1601572341

for the arh i had an issue with it contacting the swingout of my canton road race oil pan. I needed 1/8 spacers off the heads (and gaskets on both sides of the spacers)

Good luck ![/QUOTE]

i had the same issue with my lt4 383 with arh 1 3/4 - 1 7/8 step headers with the canton pan. when i double gasketed the headers it gave me the clearance between the headers and the pan.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:23 PM
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Thanks for taking your time to send all this info . I for sure will use all of it . These old headers I have are tri-ys NOS , coated I can't remember the brand but still in biz and still in the org. box , but not making these any
longer for this old 93 ,they are for a 93 ,EGR delete ,I got them relay cheap old Corvette old headers ( just something to do ) I have been doing other projects and have for just yesterday gotten all the hardware to install ( I got the good stuff ) not going cheap with gaskets bolts ETC.. I have the right stuff I hope ..
I don't get the deal take starter off install headers and put starter back on ,seems if the starter was in the way on install it would be in the way after install .. I grues I will see the deal when I get into it .. Thanks ,this kind for info relay helps ..
I take pic ..
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:36 PM
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I never had to touch the starter on mine. that does seem weird. before my Hooker headers I had cheap ebay shortys only because studs broke on original manifold when I removed exhaust to do a stall converter install. it was easier to do shorty headers. however easy to install they sucked when changing plugs. the hookers I can change plugs in about 30 minutes. the shorties also hit the hvac box so I had to modify it.
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Old May 27, 2020 | 07:59 PM
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I have learned way back ,way back working on Corvettes the C-4 and 5s NO short cuts just bite the bullet and start removing parts to make your job WAY easier .Years back I tried to work around stuff ,I did not want to take all the parts to get to something .I have over the years ( just do it ) start taking parts off .plugs going Alt . A/C compresses the Temp. deal it's all coming off .
I don't think it will be big deal with all the info I have . The striped bolt deal I B taping and two gaskets .One thing I do is leave NOTHING to chance , I drive my Corvette all over the country I do not need to be on side of the road calling AAA . I have had good luck over the years and going to do my best to keep it that way . That's why I ask : I need some header install advise and will use it all . Thanks ..
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Old Jul 3, 2020 | 02:45 PM
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Update : The day before header install drove around block to charge BAtt. ETC.. OPTI SPARK died .. 2 years 10,000 miles later and a good one NOT CHINNNNEEES one well anyway dead ,got a another one coming .. GOT to love these C4s ...
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 12:29 PM
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UPDATE : BAD EMC . Could not be rebuilt . I have figure out finding what the hell is wrong with my old C-4 is not as easy as one might say all you got to do is check RIGHT no some times not that easy
Some times the EMC would work and sometimes not it cranked and run a few times for a short time 1 min. then nothing them later do it again ??? So sometimes power here and there sometimes not .
Sometimes the ICM had power them nuting . I was thinking the OPTI was bad ?? so new OPTI , was under warranty so FREE YEA (Not a cheap one ) they sent a new one OK , nothing changed so new ICM not it , nothing changed new coil not it . Still crank and run for a min. them nothing .. Checked the speed sensors all good .
Sent off the EMC the mother board shorted out DOA and it was doing the same with the testing guy sometimes worked sometimes not so new on the way . NOT cheap .. So what do you do ..
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 12:31 PM
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OOOOPPPPS ECM NOT EMC .. TOOO meanly aberrations for sure LOL..
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Old Aug 8, 2020 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BLKMAMBA
I did this on my 93, pretty straight forward job. couple tips. I highly recommend ARP header bolts with 5/16" head. gives you ability to get at least a box wrench on all bolts to get tight enough. open end 3/8 wont cut it. they'll come loose and waste gaskets, also insist on Felpro 1406 gaskets(not the junk that come with headers) you will see in pictures I show both. they will slide in very easy from underneath with some prep work. not sure if you have the luxury of a lift but I did mine on car ramps and was high enough. you will want to remove A/C compressor alternator and ASR, for really easy access. on passenger side you need to remove dip stick tube, and coolant temp sender from head. obviously you will loose about a gallon + of coolant. underneath on driver side it it best to remove the oil Temp sender(not a must) but it is probably brittle and if you break it good luck finding a replacement. cost me $50+ shipping for a NOS that I was very lucky to find and it's right in the path to shove them in place. one other thing I had to do was pull my motor mount bolts one at a time and stick back in from the opposite direction cause tips of bolts hit and I didn't want to damage ceramic coating. as far as removal of stock most likely all studs from manifolds to cats broke. there's a bracket holding passenger cat that 2 bolts are the bell housing bolts. This was my toughest task. I cut bracket. as far as cats to exhaust the DS will probably break all studs as well. I eliminated all EGR crap. if you are too you will need block off plates for back of intake. I made them with aluminum plate.







What did you do to connect the headers to the rest of the exhaust? My headers also have these 3 bolt flanges and haven't figured this out yet.
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Old Dec 31, 2020 | 01:07 PM
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UPDATE : I know it's been way too long stuff keep coming up well started and had to get some more parts for the install anyway..
I have questions . OK the headers I have are EGR delete ( that's no problem ) But the AIR system ties into it on this 93 and I have a plug under the ASR and I left it unplugged one time ( over looked it ) NO cruse control >
OK here we go : don't worry about the cruse ? remove the AIR pump , will it throw codes ,does it really matter ??? just remove it all .this is all new to me ..

Thanks for any help ..
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 12:30 PM
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Default 93 Header install


Finely installed .Thanks again for al the info used it all and it made it way easer for the install ,removing 27 year old exhaust parts not easy ( SAW SAW was my best friend ) ..
27 year old Corvette with new 20 + year NOS headers works for me ..
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Old Jan 11, 2021 | 03:02 PM
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Did you ever get the Cruise Control working again? Was it just because the ASR was unplugged that 1 time?

Also, what kind of seat of the pants difference is it with the headers, versus how it was without them?
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Old Jan 12, 2021 | 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by IspeedAtNight
Did you ever get the Cruise Control working again? Was it just because the ASR was unplugged that 1 time?

Also, what kind of seat of the pants difference is it with the headers, versus how it was without them?
Yes the ASR has plug under it and I forgot to plug it in ,plugged it in and works fine .

Good question LOL I have not cranked it yet just finished it yesterday will be cranking today and going to the Muffler shop to tie it in to the rest of the system and will be installing LT-4 rockers as will ,got a set of LT-4 ORG. rockers and push rods and a retune chip all this should give it a little more pep .Film @ 11 ... I got a hot rod don't really need another one but had the headers got the rockers cheap so and had the 93 so why not .. I am just hoping it runs lot of changes for sure .. Let you know ..
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Old Jan 19, 2021 | 09:45 AM
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Done finely ,does it run better HELL yes it does have a custom chip in it so the headers alone with out a chip I don't know if would make a difference or not , was in work yep lot's work . The resonator was replaced with a X-pipe from JEGS built in the stainless muffler looking deal sounds great and for sure has a little more get up and go ,was in worth it I think so . Thanks for all the help for the install advice used it all and made install WAY easer .. Now on the to the stock LT-4 roller rockers install ..
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