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Anyone done a battery relocation to the rear compartment behind the passenger seat?
Any how to write ups with parts used, and picks?
I searched some, found a few old threads, not much info, and picks removed.
thanks
Anyone done a battery relocation to the rear compartment behind the passenger seat?
Any how to write ups with parts used, and picks?
I searched some, found a few old threads, not much info, and picks removed.
thanks
i did this. It was trickier than I thought it would be.
I used a batt tray out of a 2001 toyota corolla for the bottom of the compt. Drilled some locating holes in the compt for the bottom of the tray. Also that tray has a ‘drain’ out the locAting pins so any acid overflow goes out it vs. destroy/eat out the bottom of the compt
i used heavy ga welding wire to connect the grounds.
put a 350 amp fuse in there off the ‘+ ‘ side (ie. In case of a serious short so I didnt have an explosion behind the pass seat).
I drilled vent holes around the top of the compt to vent out any hydrogen gas that may form (from a charging malfunction).
i put a standoff negative terminal underneath the compt to make disconnect simple (before maintenance) from the outside.
i also put in a moroso kill switch on the +.
its inside pass compt so its prob not racing rules friendly
but In figure if im conscious and the car flips, I can kill the batt. I also rigged the fuel pump and fuse (racetronix hotwire kit) off this switch.
I removed the heavy plastic rear compt storage lid and used a piece of home depot/lowes fiberboard (not shown) to cover the compts instead. Used a hole saw to drill a hole in the fiberboard for the disconnect switch. The carpet covers the fiberboard (drill a hole thru that too)
no idea what that device is with the gold clamp. Whatever it was i removed it/didnt need it. I took this picture in 2011.
the bose radio receiver is pushed to the front of the compt. No modification to its wiring is necessary to
move it.
you can also use a top terminal batt now if you want. Heck config it for a lightweight lithium ion batt
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by RtStuf
Why relocate the battery?
Other than perhaps mounting the battery underneath the left side headlight, the stock battery location is about the worst place to put it if handling and a balanced car are of interest to a driver.
Putting the battery in the right rear compartment helps traction and handling.
Other than perhaps mounting the battery underneath the left side headlight, the stock battery location is about the worst place to put it if handling and a balanced car are of interest to a driver.
Putting the battery in the right rear compartment helps traction and handling.
yep. My plan was also to pull the passenger seat and track (35 lbs) any time i wanted a quick weight reduction for racing.
the battery makes up for that.
Its some work to do, but onceits in there, its seamless. I can still jump start it, etc.
heck, you could prob jumpstart it off the alternator + lug and put the negative on a hunk of metal.
though changing its a PITA, so I am religious about using the trickle charger to make the batt last longer. I also have a plug for that coming off of both terminals
Photo of what it looks like installed. The black fiberboard is underneath the carpet and is the new storage area cover. The underside. Note the holes I drilled in the locating plugs for the 01 toyota corolla plastic battery tray liner. This is to direct any leakage out and not into the bottom of the storage compt Also Note the negative with 18mm brass disconnect nut. I have 2 grounds coming off of it, 1 goes to the frame, the other goes to the front of the car frame. Its overkill but I thought I was chasing a ground issue., so I added it. Turns out I didnt need the 2nd ground bc the issue I had was the ecm adapter chip got loose
Last edited by dizwiz24; May 10, 2020 at 06:57 PM.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Originally Posted by dizwiz24
yep. My plan was also to pull the passenger seat and track (35 lbs) any time i wanted a quick weight reduction for racing.
the battery makes up for that.
Its some work to do, but onceits in there, its seamless. I can still jump start it, etc.
heck, you could prob jumpstart it off the alternator + lug and put the negative on a hunk of metal.
though changing its a PITA, so I am religious about using the trickle charger to make the batt last longer. I also have a plug for that coming off of both terminals
I've got 16# lawn tractor batteries in the right rear storage compartments of both my '69 and '84. Lighter weight and better location.
use welding cable (its thick but still flexible) for your connections.
for one connection that made a real tight loop, I used braided audio system wire bc it was even more flexible than welding cable.
i used 1/0 (overkill i know) welding cable in most places . I had to use a propane torch to solder AND crimp all the wire ends into heavy copper lug terminal ends
Last edited by dizwiz24; May 10, 2020 at 02:24 PM.
Use a smaller battery, odyssey or Braille if you have the bucks to spend. But the cubby hole is easy. One thing that helps is to use don 1/4 thick alum or plastic to help level out the bottom of the tray. I’ll get some photos of the setup in the race car.
i did this. It was trickier than I thought it would be.
I used a batt tray out of a 2001 toyota corolla for the bottom of the compt. Drilled some locating holes in the compt for the bottom of the tray. Also that tray has a ‘drain’ out the locAting pins so any acid overflow goes out it vs. destroy/eat out the bottom of the compt
i used heavy ga welding wire to connect the grounds.
put a 350 amp fuse in there off the ‘+ ‘ side (ie. In case of a serious short so I didnt have an explosion behind the pass seat).
I drilled vent holes around the top of the compt to vent out any hydrogen gas that may form (from a charging malfunction).
i put a standoff negative terminal underneath the compt to make disconnect simple (before maintenance) from the outside.
i also put in a moroso kill switch on the +.
its inside pass compt so its prob not racing rules friendly
but In figure if im conscious and the car flips, I can kill the batt. I also rigged the fuel pump and fuse (racetronix hotwire kit) off this switch.
What are you using for a battery hold down in case the car flips? A 40lb battery flying around behind your head is not a good thing.
i did this. It was trickier than I thought it would be.
I used a batt tray out of a 2001 toyota corolla for the bottom of the compt. Drilled some locating holes in the compt for the bottom of the tray. Also that tray has a ‘drain’ out the locAting pins so any acid overflow goes out it vs. destroy/eat out the bottom of the compt
i used heavy ga welding wire to connect the grounds.
put a 350 amp fuse in there off the ‘+ ‘ side (ie. In case of a serious short so I didnt have an explosion behind the pass seat).
I drilled vent holes around the top of the compt to vent out any hydrogen gas that may form (from a charging malfunction).
i put a standoff negative terminal underneath the compt to make disconnect simple (before maintenance) from the outside.
i also put in a moroso kill switch on the +.
its inside pass compt so its prob not racing rules friendly
but In figure if im conscious and the car flips, I can kill the batt. I also rigged the fuel pump and fuse (racetronix hotwire kit) off this switch.
What are you using for a battery hold down in case the car flips? A 40lb battery flying around behind your head is not a good thing.
What are you using for a battery hold down in case the car flips? A 40lb battery flying around behind your head is not a good thing.
you can see the hold down hook ends sticking out the bottom of the storage compt in the one photo. Theres also large body washers on each one (which you can see in the photo)
Its a rubber strap type with two threaded long vertical rods on each side of the battery.
Last edited by dizwiz24; May 12, 2020 at 01:25 PM.
Marc Haibeck does battery relocations on the ZR1 and it gives them the same weight distribution as a LT1 car. Also helps increase battery life getting it away from heat from the engine compartment.
Marc Haibeck does battery relocations on the ZR1 and it gives them the same weight distribution as a LT1 car. Also helps increase battery life getting it away from heat from the engine compartment.
is the Bose radio receiver still in there? or was it relocated?
I would think you would run into clearance issues if you mounted the battery fore-aft like that vs. transverse.
The radio receiver is crammed in front of the battery in the setup I have done. Not sure it would fit into the same spot if I had it mounted fore-aft like that.
I also see the vacuum T- fitting. Im assuming that battery is designed to vent any hydrogen gas build up out of that nipple on it.
Ive never seen an aftermarket battery (interstate, etc) that has a nipple on it to vent hydrogen gas build up.
Last edited by dizwiz24; May 13, 2020 at 10:29 AM.
Battery Relocation
