I'm starting to believe it may be the CTS. About a year or so I replaced the CTS because the car would stall once it warmed up because it stayed rich. The current symptoms are a bit different because it doesn't stall this time, although the more I play around it definitely seems to be a open to closed loop issue. When i have a few spare moments I'm going to unplug the CTS. If I'm right the car will be harder to start cold, but run fine in closed loop. I've already checked the wires at the plug and distributor and the injectors read the correct resistance so unplugging the CTS is the next easy check.

 

Just out of curiosity How old is the oxygen sensor? Just curious as if it were older than the (24 month/50k miles) life span by a significant margin I might replace just to be sure that it is not part of the problem.

The bit where you mentioned that it runs fine for the first minute and then starts to miss still suggests that the fuel pressure is not where it needs to be. The pressure could be dropping after a minute and that would affect your idle pretty severely. It is important to test the Fuel pressure to eliminate it from the list of suspected causes. Sometimes the vacuum lines to the Fuel pressure regulator might have been disconnected or develop a leak so it is working but not properly.

Your engine should not have heard any detonation and yet your Actron shows it had 12* being held back due to a knock somewhere. I would test the knock sensor as soon as I could.

-40 Degrees does seem "unusually cold" for New Jersey this time of year. There is a chart in the FSM to show what the different resistance readings mean in temperatures. If your car saw this number it would clearly have the fuel enrichment turned "ON". This should be fairly easy to measure with a good volt ohm meter. I would imagine the engine would be getting so much extra fuel it would be having a hard time idling properly and get bogged up.

Does your engine have the extra injector known as a Cold Start Injector? On my 1988 C4 it is on the drivers side towards the rear of the intake manifold, there is a thermo switch that activates this device, especially at forty below... They can be disabled by unplugging the power wires to the 9th injector, that is IF your Corvette has one.

I used to clean the contacts with an eraser, points file or very fine Emory cloth but I learned about a chemical called "DeOxIt" and it is unbelievable how well it works on old connections. I took it out and used it on a light bulb socket on my C3 and the bulbs are noticeably brighter afterwards. The same with my battery power flashlights, every one got brighter just by wiping the contact surface with this material. I am now using it everywhere on both of my Corvettes and it does a great job wherever I find a use for it. This stuff applied to sensor wires could ensure a more accurate reading as it improves the connection. Once you try it you will have a bottle in your tool box and one in the house.

I hope it is the CTS as you would have a perfectly functional Corvette very quickly for very little $ out. And I like it like that....

 

I'm hoping it is as easy as the CTS. If that proves wrong then going to get a gauge to check fuel pressure. If it gets more involved then that unfortunately I probably have to get the garage I use get involved because of the arthritis in my hands. Replacing the CTS and pulling the dash display are pretty easy, but even doing those became much harder then they should have been.

 

Finally had time to open the hood today to unplug the CTS. As expected it didn't run perfect when first started because computer thought car should be in closed loop, but after a few minutes it revved strong with no more miss. It does now have the SES light because of CTS being unplugged. I did plug scanner in just be be sure and sure enough no codes found. So now to go pickup a new CTS.

UPDATE

New CTS installed and all running good again. $21 part was all it took. On the road again!!