just clean the contacts on the cap and check the pintle and the seat in the TB to see if clean.....

 

Found 2 issues today, fuel pressure is stuck at 29PSI with the vacuum connected and 36 with the hose disconnected and the hose to my vacuum accumulator is dry rotted. I'm guessing the fuel pressure is the cause of my tip-in problem and the dry rotted hose is the high idle. IAC was surprisingly clean, but the threads were nasty so I cleaned them up.

 

have you had the fuel pump out?....is the sock dirty on the bottom?...you need more than 29 lbs with key on...

 

Its a brand new pump, the original in it was siezed up. Im going to try pinching the return today and see what it'll get up to. I have a new fuel filter on order just in case its plugged up. Its got gas of unknown vintage in it and two doses of fuel system cleaner that im trying to get it to run through.

 

Guessing I found the source of my code 33 and high idle, only 5 inches of vacuum. Does it make it easier to pull the plenum?

 

What are you trying to accomplish?

 

Was trying to replace the vacuum hoses, I pulled the plenum, replaced all the hoses, and resealed the plenum. Now getting 18" vacuum at idle, i don't think the vacuum hoses were entirely the issue. From what ive read the plenum can be a real pain to pull off because of how tight it is, but mine literally fell once I pulled the last bolt out. That leaves my fuel pressure issue to be fixed, and the engine should be all done after a full fluid change.

 

if you have a vac leak around the plenum area, you should hear it....otherwise a little spray of carb cleaner will find it.....

 

Dang son...you work fast!

I'd really like to see some photos of the engine bay if you don't mind. It would help me understand better what you're working with, if anything might have been removed/added by the PO, etc. I think a lot of help could be had from the forums if you're able to post a couple photos. For instance, do you still have all the EGR/emissions crap on the car? A lot of hot rodders remove it because it cleans up the engine bay a lot as well as deleting a ton of potential vacuum leaks. The fact the plenum just fell off sounds like someone has pulled it off quite a few times before. While you were in there, did you notice any issues with gaskets on the runners? Just a thought.

On the drivers side, there's a tube that comes out of the intake manifold in between the plenum runners, and goes to the charcoal canister in the front on the driver's side. It's been a PITA for me as it seems to constantly leak-might be worth checking out. Also, if your fuel pressure regulator isn't working, it could be leaking vacuum (and fuel!)-might solve both your problems.

Sounds like you're pretty capable already, probably way ahead of me...but that's my $.02 anyway.

 

I'll get some pics tommorow after work. While I had the plenum off, I disconnected the EGR solenoid while I had it off but I read that doing so can cause overheat issues so im kind of regretting it. I'd love to delete the AIR pump and other emmisions crap to clear out the engine bay but I'm not sure I'd pass VA inspection. If there's any fellow northern VA C4 owners who have passed with a clean engine bay, let me know please.
The plenum and runners were CAKED in carbon, oh and I didn't have a CSI which I presume 85 MY was supposed to have. I'm completely lost on what this car should and shouldn't have.
I didn't check the regualtor diaphagm while I had the plenum off because I was scared to tear it, I want to check the fuel filter first before I call it dead.

 

I've eliminated the EGR on a prior car, it was easy and I never had an issue with it at all-never even threw a code (although I've heard it can set one). I'd say you're fine there.

AIR pump is easy too, just need to get a pulley to put there instead. Some of the piping for the AIR can be a PITA to get off unless you're willing to cut it. I'd say double-check your laws before doing that, I have the benefit of not needing to pass emissions because I live in BFE. You probably won't get much if any horsepower from deleting the stuff, but it sure cleans up the engine bay a whole lot to have it gone. I've still got my EGR system but I'm seriously considering deleting it for that reason.

While you're doing all of this cleanup work, you might bypass the coolant to the throttle body as well. It's there to prevent icing, but unless you plan on driving in pretty cold weather, you don't need it. Again, it's not a performance thing, but it will clean up the bay more and it's really easy to do.One less thing that's going to be in your way all the time.

Have you flushed all the fluids? Because seriously, do that before you start driving the car. You might save yourself a huge headache later and learn about problems before they get expensive. Sounds like the previous owner was the meddling type, and if they didn't do something right you could end up screwed. I like to KNOW it was done right. Again, just my $0.02

 

My vettes a garage princess till I get the clutch master replaced . The coolant tested ok, but the oil, and brake fluid are being fluahed out, as well as the trans fluids. Im not sure what the PO did and didn't do, all I know is it has a new clutch. Any and all help is appreciated.

 

Good deal-sounds like you're on top of it. I'd still flush coolant too-why not? it's like $20, when you're doing all this other work...might as well start fresh.

Clutch can be a pain to bleed if you don't have a friend to help you, or even if you do. I've had a bleeder kit recommended to me (the kind that vacuums fluid through) but never used one; supposedly it makes the process easier. I've also had poor luck with aftermarket-maybe you can get an original one and refurb it?

 

Yeah, might as well with the coolant, the clutch will bleed fine, but if it sits for more than a couple minutes the clutch will go straight to the floor. The only success ive had was with the slow pumping, pushing to floor and holding, then slipping my foot off, I picked up a Luk unit because they have some ok reviews.

 

My LUK failed after like 200 miles. Hope yours is better lol-they do have ok reviews which leads me to believe I may have been an outlier.

 

I like McLeod clutches

 

Yikes, I don't think the one in the car is OEM but I'll check and see. Id prefer an OEM rebuild than an aftermarket unit, but ill go with whatever works the best.

 

Well, got swamped with work and haven't been able to go to the car, so pics will be coming tomorrow. I have 2 questions, I can't find a conclusive result anywhere. Should my 85 have a cold start injector? There was no place for it in the plenum, but it takes forever to start it after its sat. According to WinALDL my PROM ID is 2581, but I couldn't find if these were CSI equipped or not.
Secondly, and this is a super stupid question, do you have to clear codes after fixing issues or will they clear by themselves? I've noticed that if the car is warm, I can start it up and for about 3 seconds it will idle super smoothly, but then the check engine comes on and it idles like crap, I haven't tried clearing the codes yet but now I'm curious.

 

85 should be on drivers side bank......remove neg terminal to clear codes.....

 

The CSI should be on the ‘85. It’s on the drivers side on the intake underneath the runners from the plenum. Kinda hard to see. If you can’t find it I’ll send a pic.