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I forgot to mention, my one tire I ordered showed up the other day and it is really wide. I knew it would look wide but I didn’t even picture it to be that wide. Now I really want to see it on the car . I just wanted to make sure again before I place the order, getting them all at 18x9.5 +22 and then adding 1.5” to the inside will make an 18x11 +41 wheel right? I double checked but I just wanted to make sure it’s right before I order them. Thanks
I just wanted to make sure again before I place the order, getting them all at 18x9.5 +22 and then adding 1.5” to the inside will make an 18x11 +41 wheel right? I double checked but I just wanted to make sure it’s right before I order them. Thanks
If 'Weldcraft' is the vendor for the 'widening' - you let Weldcraft - 'DO THE MATH' Since you're into a 'widening operation' 'back-spacing' is your concern and the offset is of less concern. Custom wheel fabrication for 'one-off' installs are done with 'back-spacing' and rim-edge to rim-edge and NOT advertised widths.
Anything in excess of 7.4" actual wheel back-spacing I'd think could create issues.
Originally Posted by MatthewMiller
Yes, and it will have 7.61" off backspacing.
You CAN NOT assure the OP of that dimension - an 'approximation' ? OP can't deal with approximations. OP should be able to better dimensionally for his particular application by working with only 'back-spacing'.
The wheel vendor could provide you with the back-spacing of the wheel you order and let Weldcraft advise you. Do you actually need 38.1mm additional width or 'just close'?
Anything in excess of 7.4" actual wheel back-spacing I'd think could create issues.
I agree, which is why I predicted this plan would probably entail spacers up to 5mm. However, he is aware and wants to err on the side of a bit too much backspacing/offset rather than take a chance on having too little, since he can use a spacer to correct the former but there is no way to correct the latter.
You CAN NOT assure the OP of that dimension - an 'approximation' ? OP can't deal with approximations. OP should be able to better dimensionally for his particular application by working with only 'back-spacing'.
He's already dealing in approximations, since he's using an untried tire size and none of us are 100% sure what will work with that.
I just called them to make sure on the back spacing and they said it is 6.12. So that would make them 7.62 when they are 18x11. I will just go ahead and get them in this size and if they don’t work I’ll use small spacers. Maybe with the 305 tire it will fit instead of being a 315 though. And this way I can get them as far in as possible on the front since I have it lowered quite a bit and don’t want it to crack the edges of the hood.
I'm hoping the wheels sit about like this cars’ do in relation the the fenders. It has 315’s all around. I have always though these cars have such a large turning radius, if it was a small as a regular car and let you turn the wheels that far there is no way the wide wheels would fit up front. So I’m glad they made them with the stops out so far for the turning. If the car is moving slow during a sharp turn it barley wants to turn haha.
I need to fill out the form to send to weldcraft so they know what they are doing with the wheels. They can grind the welds down so they are smooth for an extra $50 each wheel. Do you have an opinion on whether I should do this or just leave them as they are?
I need to fill out the form to send to weldcraft so they know what they are doing with the wheels. They can grind the welds down so they are smooth for an extra $50 each wheel. Do you have an opinion on whether I should do this or just leave them as they are?
Other than appearance, I'm not sure what the advantages to doing that would be. So I have no worthwhile opinion on this. What do they say is the advantage?
If 'Weldcraft' is the vendor for the 'widening' - you let Weldcraft - 'DO THE MATH' Since you're into a 'widening operation' 'back-spacing' is your concern and the offset is of less concern. Custom wheel fabrication for 'one-off' installs are done with 'back-spacing' and rim-edge to rim-edge and NOT advertised widths.
Anything in excess of 7.4" actual wheel back-spacing I'd think could create issues.
You CAN NOT assure the OP of that dimension - an 'approximation' ? OP can't deal with approximations. OP should be able to better dimensionally for his particular application by working with only 'back-spacing'.
The wheel vendor could provide you with the back-spacing of the wheel you order and let Weldcraft advise you. Do you actually need 38.1mm additional width or 'just close'?
I forgot to mention, when I called weldcraft they said they won’t calculate the offset. They only deal with backspacing because they add what we they are adding to the backspacing and that is what they figure. About the 38.1 additional width, they come in 9.5 and I need to me widened to fit my 305/35r18 tires so I figured since most say 18x11 is a better fit I might as well just get them in 18x11 since it costs the same anyways. And I might use a 315/30r18 tire at some point too.
Other than appearance, I'm not sure what the advantages to doing that would be. So I have no worthwhile opinion on this. What do they say is the advantage?
I think that is all it is for, it was just an option on the modification form I need to send to them and I wasn’t sure whether I would want them smoothed out or not. I asked them about it and they said it’s to hide where they welded it and it doesn’t make the wheel any less strong by grinding the welds but I think it would be fine just leaving the welds as they are since it’s probably far enough back in that you can’t even see them anyways. I checked with them to make sure and they said they won’t hurt the chrome finish of the wheel too., just the 3-4 inch area that will be raw aluminum from the welding.
I checked today and the lug nuts now get just over 8 turns before it touches the wheel. I checked this on the rear wheel since it will probably be the one to need the spacer. I’m sure it is past the 8 1/3 that you said it needs to be too because it was just over 8 and that was just until it touch by my fingers tightening it, so when it is torqued it has to be past 8 1/2 turns.
I will for sure. After all of the help I have been given from everyone there’s no way I could just forget about posting a picture and leave the thread. I don’t know why so many people will start a thread and then just leave without showing or telling the final outcome of what they were asking about.
I checked today and the lug nuts now get just over 8 turns before it touches the wheel. I checked this on the rear wheel since it will probably be the one to need the spacer. I’m sure it is past the 8 1/3 that you said it needs to be too because it was just over 8 and that was just until it touch by my fingers tightening it, so when it is torqued it has to be past 8 1/2 turns.
5 turns would be enough. So you should be in good shape with what you just measured. Just remember that if you need a few more turns you can look at getting ET lug nuts or even the open Vorshlag nuts.
Last edited by MatthewMiller; Apr 18, 2021 at 10:58 AM.
I’m planning on getting these lug nuts. You can change the center cap to whatever color you want and I was going to see if I like them red. If not I can just leave it black since the little cap on top unscrews. If the spacers make the threads not long enough I will probably just get extended studs instead of those lug nuts because I like this style lug nut. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Lug-N...b4f3%7Ciid%3A1
I think you guys were right about the offset I need. I saw a thread where someone was selling their wheels and they have 19x11 +35 and 19x10.5 +35 wheels with 305/30 and 295/30 tires on their 85 and this is how the wheels sit. They look like they fit just right so I know I’m going to be happy with how the new wheels fit.
My wheels showed up to weldcraft finally so they can widen them and then I’ll pick them up. Esr actually accidentally sent an extra set to weldcraft which they thought were my wheels at first and that caused a lot of confusion but we finally got everything sorted out. I’ll just pick up both sets of wheels when I go to weldcraft and then I’ll drop esr’s set off at FedEx for them since weldcraft didn’t have a way of getting their shipment to FedEx. They measured the wheels and said it all measured right. He sent me a picture of them before they widen the wheels.
I got the wheels today. I already had an appointment at a tire shop to put the tires on tomorrow but I had to put one on just to see if it looks like it will fit. Here’s the pictures. I think they will look great, it may need that spacer like Mathew mentioned, what do you think? The sway bar and control arm/dog bone link are both pretty close but I don’t know how far the tire will bulge out. There is just over a finger width in between the rim and the suspension pieces so if the tire bulges out further than .5-1” then it will need a small spacer but they look like they will fit almost perfect. It sits just inside the fender too but I will have to see it with the tire on of course. I didn’t stick one on the front to see how that fits, I’ll have the tire shop put the wheel and tire on the front and rear and see if they think it will work.
I think they will look great, it may need that spacer like Mathew mentioned, what do you think? The sway bar and control arm/dog bone link are both pretty close but I don’t know how far the tire will bulge out. There is just over a finger width in between the rim and the suspension pieces so if the tire bulges out further than .5-1” then it will need a small spacer but they look like they will fit almost perfect. It sits just inside the fender too but I will have to see it with the tire on of course. I didn’t stick one on the front to see how that fits, I’ll have the tire shop put the wheel and tire on the front and rear and see if they think it will work.
If I still had mine, I'd go outside and look at how close the rim edge was to the swaybar and trailing arms. The other part you're going to have to look at closely is the trailing arm mounts that bolt to the frame. The pivot bolts for the trailing arm bushings may rub the corner of the tires. The reality is that every tire is a little different in sidewall bulge and tread width, so you're going to have to try it out and see.