I removed many unused wires and have some options on wiring what's left. Just to get going I wired a few things but there are no fuses yet. What would be a good way to wire just a few things? It's easy to run a circuit back to the battery. Or use a small fuse panel or bus. I would like to add front lights yet and turn signals. Here is what I have just to be running:

 

Do the job once. Do the job right. Disasters happen when you least expect it. Don't take any chances with electricity!

 

You can use a fuse panel from Amazon, comes with 14 circuits, originally designed for a boat, so it has stainless terminals and hardware. Has stickers so u can label the circuit.
you can add circuits later.
Has clear cover, and uses same blade type fuses the car came with.
you can also forget fuse box,
and just cut an aluminum panel, cover it with plastic sheet, and mount Self resettable circuit breakers on it.
like the ones for air conditioners.
just use a sharpie and write over the breaker on the panel.
you can always pick a place( like where heater used to be), or use inline fuses.
i like to use relays.
the coils use
milli-amps To turn on, mount the relay close to the item turning off, on, and get More voltage out to the Unit.
i have no idea why manufacturers put fuses in inaccessible places like under the dash near the steering column,except it’s pretty well protected.
A while back i bought a fuse box out of a 2007 impala, and they included miles of wire as removed from the car.
got it off ebay for $23.
premarked for fuel pump, lights, etc.
one out if a 2000-2005 tahoe even has places for relays and they are plug-in.
they mount face up, and u can get terminals for them at any autoparts store or GM dealer.
again, heater area is perfect, and they have a snap-on cover.

 

You can use a fuse panel from Amazon, comes with 14 circuits, originally designed for a boat, so it has stainless terminals and hardware. Has stickers so u can label the circuit.
you can add circuits later.
Has clear cover, and uses same blade type fuses the car came with.
you can also forget fuse box,
and just cut an aluminum panel, cover it with plastic sheet, and mount Self resettable circuit breakers on it.
like the ones for air conditioners.
just use a sharpie and write over the breaker on the panel.
you can always pick a place( like where heater used to be , use inline fuses.
i like to use relays.
the coils use
milli-amps To turn on, mount the relay close to the item turning off, on, and get More voltage out to the Unit.

 

I did it complex with a brand new harness COMPLETE. 7 years and suddenly some real movement.
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I was tempted to reuse the stock fuse panel but looking at the back of it many things are tied together. I plan to remove the stock steering column so have been looking at blinker options. I found a universal turn signal that should work well.

 

I assume this is for are race/track car? I am looking to go though the wiring in my race car in the near future. There are combined fuse and relay panels that I’m thinking about using.

 

Yes track car though I street drive too. It's all gutted out and the unnecessary wiring removed now. Which was a bigger project than I would have thought. Wires wore me out! I kept the stock circuit from front and rear lights. The brake lights I got power to and those are working well.

I just have ring terminals on the battery for now. With some in line fuses and relays for the fuel pump and fan. It's simple and works well. Next is switched power for speedo and tach.

 

Yeah my racing car is set up more or less the same with inline fuses etc and some unknown switches. I think I’m going to buy a fuse and relay holder I just need to know that they will be robust enough for the track. It’s amazing what breaks or comes loose when you start racing hard.

 

That's true! My father helped do some wiring a few years back. He used computer connectors that vibrated loose my first event.

I also need some ideas for LS coil holders. Maybe I will clad the all thread in a tube and make a holding bracket.

 

My solution here is to add a positive bus bar by the battery for the six fused ring terminals (fan etc). Then another one in the cabin that is relay switched power for gauges etc.

 

The original location for the Fusible Links is a nice well-protected place for wiring parts or components. Painless Wiring makes a lot of really nice complete kits for rewiring your Car. They may not be the least expensive but they work very well.

I always worry about what would happen if the battery was shorted in an accident or mix up on the track. I personally want a switch that isolates the battery in a big hurry if you need it.

Recently did a "dumb" thing, I had a weak battery in my DD so I put a spare full size auto battery in between the front seats. I took my Contigo Stainless steel water bottle with me on a quick trip with my wife in the car when suddenly I had to stop and the bottle rolled forward and dead shorted the battery. I responded within a fraction of a second and by then the bottle was red hot and had melted through the outer layer of the Stainless Steel vacuum jar. I put my hand under it and broke it free and sent it flying.

The whole point is that Batteries CAN BE very dangerous and they should be treated with great respect in any car. GM put those fusible links between the battery and the fuse block to prevent your Corvette from catching fire easily. In my C3 I have the battery inside an insulated compartment to keep it as cool as possible. It is also strapped to the floor so it can't roll over.

You can never be TOO careful when working with a Flooded Lead Acid battery. When they are dead shorted there is a LOT of energy there to deal with. The posts on top of the battery turned liquid literally in fractions of a second of contact. Liquid metal loose in a car with people nearby, bad scenario.
I am planning on putting G-switches that isolate the battery in case of getting in an accident. These are used in some new cars today. Back when I was 19, I rolled (either 4 or 5 full rotations) while sailing over the Four lane section of I-95 near Brunswick Georgia. It was a Mazda Rotary and it used a electric fuel pump. After the Car and I came to a stop it was on it's drivers side down and after exiting through the passenger door we watched the fuel pouring out on the hot engine. We rolled it over onto the wheels so we could shut off the power to the fuel pump. I was waiting for it to catch fire, fortunately it did not.

I have seen a lot of Bubba's work on electrical systems. Some of it is downright dangerous and should be fixed right away. If you do add a Positive Bus bar someplace be sure to get one that has a cover for it. I also keep a small Halon Fire Extinguisher in my Corvettes. Better to be safe than to be sorry afterwards!