C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Thinking LSx....

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Old Oct 8, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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Default Thinking LSx....

Hello All,
I've got a basically stock 1990 L-98 car with a 6-speed ZF, I'm bored to death of the car and have been thinking about getting rid of it, and the I started thinking about swapping in a 6.0 Vortec. Obviously these engines have been around since '99, they starting out at 300 HP and topped at 360 HP before they increased the displacement. I've got a line on 2002 pickup with a 6.0, and that's 300 HP, but is the best way to go. Is there a preferred engine that I should be looking for? I am planning to change out the cam, and the heads if it makes sense. Just looking for some suggestions on what's the best way to go with this.
Thank you,
Adam.
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:30 AM
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All depends on budget, a LQ4 is more common, but the LQ9 is probably the best 6.0 stock option, comes factory with the 33lb flex injectors and flat top pistons, giving it a higher CR. They also make great low end torque, and if you're planning on staying NA, tossing some reworked 862 heads or stock 243 heads on there gets you close to the 11:1 compression range, that and a cam would make for an awesome budget build. That said, the 3rd gens(99-07) suffered from con rod bolt issues making them notoriously sensitive in the higher revs. The 4th gens had a revised bottom end, so you can really benefit from being able to rev them higher, but they also use the 58X reluctor. There are reports of some of the 6.0s getting 4th gen rods pre-07 without AFM and with a 24X reluctor, those engines are treasure troves since you can use the P59 ECM which has a great open source community(PCMHammer, LSDroid) with the buy in at the cost of an OBDLink($50).
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatOneKid
All depends on budget, a LQ4 is more common, but the LQ9 is probably the best 6.0 stock option, comes factory with the 33lb flex injectors and flat top pistons, giving it a higher CR. They also make great low end torque, and if you're planning on staying NA, tossing some reworked 862 heads or stock 243 heads on there gets you close to the 11:1 compression range, that and a cam would make for an awesome budget build. That said, the 3rd gens(99-07) suffered from con rod bolt issues making them notoriously sensitive in the higher revs. The 4th gens had a revised bottom end, so you can really benefit from being able to rev them higher, but they also use the 58X reluctor. There are reports of some of the 6.0s getting 4th gen rods pre-07 without AFM and with a 24X reluctor, those engines are treasure troves since you can use the P59 ECM which has a great open source community(PCMHammer, LSDroid) with the buy in at the cost of an OBDLink($50).
That is all great info!! If its me, i am grabbing an LS3... Sky is the limit from there...
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by ThatOneKid
All depends on budget, a LQ4 is more common, but the LQ9 is probably the best 6.0 stock option, comes factory with the 33lb flex injectors and flat top pistons, giving it a higher CR. They also make great low end torque, and if you're planning on staying NA, tossing some reworked 862 heads or stock 243 heads on there gets you close to the 11:1 compression range, that and a cam would make for an awesome budget build. That said, the 3rd gens(99-07) suffered from con rod bolt issues making them notoriously sensitive in the higher revs. The 4th gens had a revised bottom end, so you can really benefit from being able to rev them higher, but they also use the 58X reluctor. There are reports of some of the 6.0s getting 4th gen rods pre-07 without AFM and with a 24X reluctor, those engines are treasure troves since you can use the P59 ECM which has a great open source community(PCMHammer, LSDroid) with the buy in at the cost of an OBDLink($50).
Thanks for the info, this is really helpful! Is there any way to tell the pre-07's that are equipped with the 4th gen rods?
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by TXGS507
That is all great info!! If its me, i am grabbing an LS3... Sky is the limit from there...
Maybe I'm wrong on this, but finding an LS3 seems like it would be like trying to find a unicorn. That and would think that they're expensive....
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Thanks for the info, this is really helpful! Is there any way to tell the pre-07's that are equipped with the 4th gen rods?
GM started phasing them into production in 03, and by 05 almost everything had them, LQ9s were the first to get the gen 4 treatment, so those are all but guaranteed. Anything 03 and up has a chance of having the gen 4 rods, but there are no external indicators of the gen 3 vs gen 4 rods. You have to pull the pan or snake a camera in from the drain plug to ID the rods to be sure though. The gen 3s are good to 600-700 wheel stock and can be revved to 7000RPM with rod bolts. It's really under boost that the rod difference is apparent, should have made that more clear. For a cam and heads engine making 500ish the only benefits is the 500-800 extra RPMs.
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Maybe I'm wrong on this, but finding an LS3 seems like it would be like trying to find a unicorn. That and would think that they're expensive....
Lots of L92/L96 6.2 or L76/LY6 6.0 engines out there though. All rectangular port heads.
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Old Oct 9, 2020 | 07:47 PM
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Thank you for all the advice, all good stuff!
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 11:51 AM
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I'm running an 05 LQ4 which has the 24x reluctor and gen4 lower half with 5.3l 706 heads, dorman LS2 intake, 92mm throttle body and summit .600 lift cam. So far about 10 miles on it and the power difference from the L98 is ridiculous
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by banditt1979
I'm running an 05 LQ4 which has the 24x reluctor and gen4 lower half with 5.3l 706 heads, dorman LS2 intake, 92mm throttle body and summit .600 lift cam. So far about 10 miles on it and the power difference from the L98 is ridiculous
Thanks, have some questions. When you (and the rest who have done this swap) were completely finished and driving down the road, can you give me an estimate on what it cost to do? Also, did you just go out and find a junk yard engine, or did you find a wrecked donor vehichle to part out? Thinking of ways to defer some of the cost. I've read some of the other threads on doing this and it surely doesn't sound like and easy project, how did you all think it went for you? To do difficult and never do again, or was the extra power so worth it that you were glad?
Thanks,
Adam
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Thanks, have some questions. When you (and the rest who have done this swap) were completely finished and driving down the road, can you give me an estimate on what it cost to do? Also, did you just go out and find a junk yard engine, or did you find a wrecked donor vehichle to part out? Thinking of ways to defer some of the cost. I've read some of the other threads on doing this and it surely doesn't sound like and easy project, how did you all think it went for you? To do difficult and never do again, or was the extra power so worth it that you were glad?
Thanks,
Adam

One thing to keep in mind is I am 90% sure you will need accessories out of a c5+ because the truck ones won't fit.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Thanks, have some questions. When you (and the rest who have done this swap) were completely finished and driving down the road, can you give me an estimate on what it cost to do? Also, did you just go out and find a junk yard engine, or did you find a wrecked donor vehichle to part out? Thinking of ways to defer some of the cost. I've read some of the other threads on doing this and it surely doesn't sound like and easy project, how did you all think it went for you? To do difficult and never do again, or was the extra power so worth it that you were glad?
Thanks,
Adam
I spent more than I anticipated but I also bought a 4L60E and rebuilt it as well. I'm well over the 7k mark. I bought a junkyard engine with 113k miles and did a clean up and rering/rebearing on the bottom end since it all looked good. I would try to find a wrecked vehicle and part it out if you have the time and space. I did all the work myself to save on labor, plus I don't trust anyone else to touch my car. The extra power was definitely worth it! It wasn't that hard to install the engine, just buy the swap mounts and transmission adapter and it goes right in. You'll have to decide on an operating system, I went with the Holley Terminator X Max. It's still in the process of self learning but you can tune the transmission stuff as well. Look up my build thread it has most if not all the details. There are several guys I followed on here to aid me in my swap and theyve been very helpful. Any specific questions you guys have feel free to ask! I'll do what I can to help.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Alejandro Guerrero
One thing to keep in mind is I am 90% sure you will need accessories out of a c5+ because the truck ones won't fit.
As far as I know the truck stuff doesn't work. I think the mid mount F body accessories may work, depends on where you locate the engine. I used the C5 accessories and theres lots of room between the balancer and the steering rack. If I ever need to get the balancer off I won't have a problem but you may if you use F body accessories.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ThatOneKid
That said, the 3rd gens(99-07) suffered from con rod bolt issues making them notoriously sensitive in the higher revs. The 4th gens had a revised bottom end, so you can really benefit from being able to rev them higher, but they also use the 58X reluctor. There are reports of some of the 6.0s getting 4th gen rods pre-07 without AFM and with a 24X reluctor, those engines are treasure troves since you can use the P59 ECM which has a great open source community(PCMHammer, LSDroid) with the buy in at the cost of an OBDLink($50).
That's some fairly bad/misleading info.

-Rod bolts were never an issue. If they were, it would've had to have been in 97. I've repeatedly hit 7600 RPM with gen 3 rods in multiple engines, and seeing rod bolt failures are incredibly rare.
You'd have a hard time finding multiple examples of rod bolt failure due to RPM.

-ALL engines got the gen 4 rods midway through 04, regardless of what vehicle they were in, or what displacement they were. 4.8 and up. Iron or Aluminum, even gen 3, it didn't matter.

-Gen 4 engines didn't start getting put into trucks until 07 (08 model year). All trucks (NOT SUVS) kept using gen 3 engines with gen 3 electronics/hardware up through 07 model year.
This means they all still had no DoD/AFM, no VVT, 24x, cam sensor in the back, knock sensors in the valley, etc.
None of this bares any special allowances or requirements for the P59 ECU.

-SUVs started getting some gen3/4 mixed engines in 05/06 that were 24x with some gen 4 specific features.

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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Thanks for the info, this is really helpful! Is there any way to tell the pre-07's that are equipped with the 4th gen rods?
13mm exhaust manifold or valley cover bolts are usually the best indicator without opening the engine.
There is no other external way to tell.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by xflagz51
Maybe I'm wrong on this, but finding an LS3 seems like it would be like trying to find a unicorn. That and would think that they're expensive....
The LS3 was used in thousands of corvettes/camaros/G8s.
The L92 was the truck/SUV version and could be easily converted to an LS3. Any 6.2 could actually.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Alejandro Guerrero
One thing to keep in mind is I am 90% sure you will need accessories out of a c5+ because the truck ones won't fit.
The truck alternator sits too high. You can relocate it to the passenger side to make it fit.
The truck power steering pump fits fine with the use of a smaller dorman pulley.
I'm not positive on the low truck A/C compressor.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeNova
That's some fairly bad/misleading info.

-Rod bolts were never an issue. If they were, it would've had to have been in 97. I've repeatedly hit 7600 RPM with gen 3 rods in multiple engines, and seeing rod bolt failures are incredibly rare.
You'd have a hard time finding multiple examples of rod bolt failure due to RPM.

-ALL engines got the gen 4 rods midway through 04, regardless of what vehicle they were in, or what displacement they were. 4.8 and up. Iron or Aluminum, even gen 3, it didn't matter.

-Gen 4 engines didn't start getting put into trucks until 07 (08 model year). All trucks (NOT SUVS) kept using gen 3 engines with gen 3 electronics/hardware up through 07 model year.
This means they all still had no DoD/AFM, no VVT, 24x, cam sensor in the back, knock sensors in the valley, etc.
None of this bares any special allowances or requirements for the P59 ECU.

-SUVs started getting some gen3/4 mixed engines in 05/06 that were 24x with some gen 4 specific features.
Not gonna argue but did want to state I've had 2 cases of rod bolts letting go above 7K one in a 01 EGR engine, and another an 03. The 01 let go at 7150 according to the logs and the 03 at 7300. 3rd gens do not like being revved higher then 6500, if there wasn't an issue GM wouldn't have revised the rods, that costs money and thats the last thing GM had.
My 04 Sierra Vin Z(flex) had 3rd gen rods, otherwise good contribution, thanks for the corrections. I'm a bit rusty when it comes to LS hunting, its been a few years and I've forgotten all the tidbits, my apologies if i mislead anyone.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 04:56 PM
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Before you start on a swap think about if that's what you really want to do. The reason I said that is because you stated you were bored with the car and when you start a swap it can get annoying. You can find a C5 or C6 for a reasonable price. I did a LQ4 swap back in 2013 to my C4.. It took two days to get it running and driving but I research how to do it for a year. Since then I've put Heads cam exhaust, Fast intake CAI converter to the swap. I like the C4. I recently brought a 06 C6 but like the C4 better. When I first put the stock LQ4 in the C4, in ran 13.0s in the 1/4 that's what my C6 runs. Now my C4 runs 11.3s -11.5s
Randy
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by rlane5
Before you start on a swap think about if that's what you really want to do. The reason I said that is because you stated you were bored with the car and when you start a swap it can get annoying. You can find a C5 or C6 for a reasonable price. I did a LQ4 swap back in 2013 to my C4.. It took two days to get it running and driving but I research how to do it for a year. Since then I've put Heads cam exhaust, Fast intake CAI converter to the swap. I like the C4. I recently brought a 06 C6 but like the C4 better. When I first put the stock LQ4 in the C4, in ran 13.0s in the 1/4 that's what my C6 runs. Now my C4 runs 11.3s -11.5s
Randy

Its a big job and definitely has frustration written on it. I too did many months of research and bought 2 books to understand the engine as i had only worked on old school GM engines. It helps to have a lot of different tools, welder, shop press and lots of patience!
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