C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Please help identify noise?

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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 02:16 PM
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Default Please help identify noise? UPDATE

A little spirited driving today.... Get home and hear this?
Alt? AC compressor? Power Steering pump?

Car runs awesome!! gotta fix this. Previous owner recentl installed a new Alternator... wonder if this is a chinese cheepo....? Its definitely not AC Delco... Any help would be appreciated.

Last edited by TXGS507; Oct 13, 2020 at 05:03 PM.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 02:30 PM
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Sounds like power steering pump but could be a defective alternator. Have you checked the power steering reservoir to see if it is full?
The actual power steering pump is mounted under the alternator and the reservoir is located on the passenger side near the valve cover.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grandspt
Sounds like power steering pump but could be a defective alternator. Have you checked the power steering reservoir to see if it is full?
The actual power steering pump is mounted under the alternator and the reservoir is located on the passenger side near the valve cover.

Yep, power steering is full....
Man, hoping it is just s shitty alternator.... Gonna go buy one and see.... No whining from the pump... It literally just started this today after some spirited driving...
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 03:52 PM
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Get a long piece of rubber hose and listen.

But sounds like a PS pump to me.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 04:01 PM
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Unplug the alternator and start it up and see if the noise goes away.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Krusty84
Unplug the alternator and start it up and see if the noise goes away.
Isn't the plug on the bottom of the Alt?
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ChumpVette
Get a long piece of rubber hose and listen.

But sounds like a PS pump to me.
I actually used a wooden dowel... It could be any of them.... compressor, alt, PSP... lol.... Cannot pin point or isolate
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TXGS507
I actually used a wooden dowel... It could be any of them.... compressor, alt, PSP... lol.... Cannot pin point or isolate

They are all on the same accesory bracket, but the noise will definitely be greater on the one that is having the issue. The only one you really can’t acces is the PS pump.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 05:02 PM
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Problem solved... Thank s to KRUSTY for PMing me....

I merely un bolted the hot wire on the Alt... ( isolated it of course) and fired her up... NOISE GONE, PROBLEM SOLVED... Ordered an AC Delco Alt....

This may explain the passenger window randomly not going up, down w drivers side button.... Have to use passenger side and it was still iffy.... also, needle volt gauge has kinda jumped around a little since i b0ought the car... But the digital reading read 14..?

Car running, alt un bolted, turning wheel, NO noise from PSP... Man, this is great... Can't wait to get new Alt installed.

Thanks to everyone for taking time to chime in.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 05:34 PM
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Glad you figured it out.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by TXGS507
This may explain the passenger window randomly not going up, down w drivers side button.... Have to use passenger side and it was still iffy.... also, needle volt gauge has kinda jumped around a little since i b0ought the car... But the digital reading read 14..?
I am not certain how GM wired the window switches on your 96 but the way GM has done in the past was that the driver's side switch is actually wired through the passenger side switch. Basically the driver's side switch is activating the passenger side switch. So if the passenger side switch is iffy, that is likely your problem. Spray some contact cleaner into the passenger side switch and rock it back and forth a bunch of times and see if it starts working good again. If that doesn't work, you might need to pull the switch and clean up the connectors and put some dielectric grease on them and reinstall.

I have had this issue with several different GM vehicles over the years. It is usually because the passenger side switch is rarely used and the contacts within the switch get dirty or slightly covered in corrosion from not being used.
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Old Oct 10, 2020 | 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Krusty84
I am not certain how GM wired the window switches on your 96 but the way GM has done in the past was that the driver's side switch is actually wired through the passenger side switch. Basically the driver's side switch is activating the passenger side switch. So if the passenger side switch is iffy, that is likely your problem. Spray some contact cleaner into the passenger side switch and rock it back and forth a bunch of times and see if it starts working good again. If that doesn't work, you might need to pull the switch and clean up the connectors and put some dielectric grease on them and reinstall.

I have had this issue with several different GM vehicles over the years. It is usually because the passenger side switch is rarely used and the contacts within the switch get dirty or slightly covered in corrosion from not being used.
I checked my '95 FSM and this still holds. The driver's side switch for the passenger window is indeed wired through the passenger side switch.
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Krusty84
I am not certain how GM wired the window switches on your 96 but the way GM has done in the past was that the driver's side switch is actually wired through the passenger side switch. Basically the driver's side switch is activating the passenger side switch. So if the passenger side switch is iffy, that is likely your problem. Spray some contact cleaner into the passenger side switch and rock it back and forth a bunch of times and see if it starts working good again. If that doesn't work, you might need to pull the switch and clean up the connectors and put some dielectric grease on them and reinstall.

I have had this issue with several different GM vehicles over the years. It is usually because the passenger side switch is rarely used and the contacts within the switch get dirty or slightly covered in corrosion from not being used.
Thanks man, I am going to check that out today... Literally, nobody has even sat in the passenger seat since new... Nor have the controls been used.. I am going to attempt to remove passenger switch, clean, add dielectric grease on it. Thanks again....
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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Hmm.... Removed this Alt today... It was definitely making that noise, but it spins freely...? No gridning, etc....? Noticed it has a different serial number than the one i just purchased ( should be here this week)..
The one removed

The one i purchased
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 03:03 PM
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Hmm,,, seems to be interchangeable...
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Old Oct 11, 2020 | 06:39 PM
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Just because it spins freely doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. This is a high-current device; the sound you hear may not be a physical one like a bearing, but could be an electrical one. Replacing it is still a good idea since you've isolated it as the culprit.
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Nomake Wan
Just because it spins freely doesn't mean there isn't something wrong with it. This is a high-current device; the sound you hear may not be a physical one like a bearing, but could be an electrical one. Replacing it is still a good idea since you've isolated it as the culprit.
Right on the money! I literally just changed the alternator on my wife's Yukon 2 days ago, in the middle of a 12 mile drive on the interstate, the "service charging system" message lit up. Exited off the interstate and came to a stoplight, could smell HOT electronics and it sounded exactly like yours, stilled showed 11.5 volts ( could have been just battery voltage, but I expected it to keep dropping faster). Anyway a few more miles then home, popped the hood, sounded exactly like a power steering pump moaning and groaning, this alternator was 5 years old. Shut the engine off and put a box fan pointing at the alternator, it was so hot, it literally burned my hand by quickly touching it! After removal, spinning it by hand, it made zero noise and had zero roughness at all! I actually noticed solder droplets at the front of driver's valve cover and plenum, this thing got so hot, it was melting the soldered connections! The alternator made zero noise earlier that day and showed no signs of any issues. Definitely change yours, it's a fire waiting to happen!!! And I wouldn't worry about different serial numbers, if physically it's the same and after confirming by running your new number on a Google search that the amperage is the same, it's the right one! Good luck 👍
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To Please help identify noise?

Old Oct 12, 2020 | 09:11 AM
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Man, you guys have helped a ton.... I am not an "electrical" expert at all.... I am thinking of taking the battery to be tested as well while i wait on the new alternator.. Although it has a strip of tape on it stating that it was tested earlier this year. The previous owner installed this alternator sometime this year as well.. Guessing it too was a reman.. Luck of the draw i guess with these...

Should/Could i have this one rebuilt as a spare?

Thanks again guys for the input.
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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 09:20 AM
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Also noticed this when i removed... The plastic had been smashed when the PO installed.. The wires themselves seem to be intact.. No fraying, copper showing through the insulation. Thoughts?

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Old Oct 12, 2020 | 09:31 AM
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You can replace those but I’d give it a good douse of liquid electrical tape then wrap it with a good 3m electrical tape and be done with it.

my passenger window is intermittent from the drivers door control but always works from the passenger side switch. Makes sense that they’re wired together and I now know where my issue lies.
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