Forum members can you please avoid comments until I get all done, that will keep it linearly for all to see. Add comments to the other threads and when I am done, have at it !

I have chosen to present this as if you ordered it yourself. And will be brutally honest ! This will make it a better experience for the vendor also. The package arrived today. As you can see FedEx is not so careful with packages. The contents are fine though. I would suggest a couple pieces of foam, or cardboard honeycomb, etc inside the box to give it a little more rigidity without adding weight.

I have found from prior experience, once the shipping box gets a rip/tear in it, FedEx's/UPS' and USPS' automated machinery can make the tear worse and components will fall out. That is why I suggest a little more support in the box, so a crimp doesn't happen to give it a place to get a go at.

The components are carefully packaged. Included are:

installation instructions
allen wrench
different thicknesses of pliable shim (to take into account different diameters at the attachment point)

So far I have inspected the components and tried the hydraulic cylinder. Based upon my experiences with my heavy duty 4x4 pickups (8600 & 9200 GVWR trucks) the stiffness of the cylinder is quite appropriate. The bracketry appears to be aluminum extrusions (key word appears) and are quite well done. There is NOTHING CRUDE about any of the components.

The only thing at this point that I can see, is that the bottom washers can bump up against a radius on the extrusions. When I do the installation, I will grind a flat (and show you all) on the affected washers. That will allow them to seat without having to be bent. NOT A BIG DEAL at all.

Sorry the leaf snuck in. It is heading towards winter fast here in Ohio. As such I will have it all tested out in the next 2 weeks. As the weather stands right now, I will be able to get a few hundred miles of driving impressions done for you.

 

..... Ohio's Pot-Holes getting the best of you ? ..... I grew up in Cleveland and still have family in Ohio ... moved to Florida over 30 years ago .....

 

Folks, I have received a question in the background about the packaging. Notice above I said:

I didn't think that anyone wanted to see all the internal packing material and that this statement was good enough.

My comments about adding a block of foam or cardboard honeycomb had no implications that there wasn't sufficient "air bladders" etc inside the box. Only that a piece of foam etc would give a little help in keeping the automated machinery from collapsing the box. All of you that have shipped stuff know that there are only so many options for a given size when you have components that you have to fit inside.

Big time vendors can afford to have custom manufactured shipping containers made. Of course that cost is passed on.

I was trying to show how the addition of an additional support in the box can be a proactive move. Sometimes I will go get some free cardboard boxes, cut strips and tape them together to form a block to slide in the ends of the box.

The following comments I have brought in from the other threads on this.

Please read this. It is a worthwhile discussion

https://txtire.com/blog/view/steerin...zers-the-truth

 

The driver's side is in. On the LT1 cars, at least the 96's, there is a power steering line in the way. Reaching the little cap screws with the allen wrench to tighten them up IS DOABLE, you just have to find the right angle. I had to lay on my left side and reach up over the top to get to them and do them by feel.

Keep in mind that my rt hand has had 16 or so surgeries on it, so it doesn't bend the best. If I can do it, so can you. That is another reason why it is good for me to do this, my wrists don't bend the best.

 

The passenger side is now installed. The LT1 AUTOMATIC cars are the hardest to due the installation on due to the lower radiator hose and the transmission cooling lines (to radiator) being where they are. I spent most of the weekend working out a way so it would be easy for you all to do (stick cars and L98's are easier).

The key is to get it where you want it, snugged up enough to put into position and stay there. Once it is there, it is all but impossible to get the Allen wrench
in to tighten it up. I tried, for hours, to find the right angle. So, I put a hose clamp to mark the end position and took note of a rotation mark, in this case, the end of the hose clamp lined up with the hinge. You can squeeze enough slack out of the transmission cooler lines to gain access

FROM THE TOP. I put together a assembly of 1/4 drive parts, with a u-joint. I have a 3mm driver bit that fits into a 1/4" socket. I taped it in place. I WAS DONE AND TIGHTENED in just a couple minutes (the bracket). It is so easy from the top. The hard part was working this combination out.

The fourth pic is looking down from the top. As you can see, you have a straight on shot to the small bolts to tighten them up. I also used a rotary round ratchet. I have a set from Harbor Freight, it has 1/4,3/8 and 1/2 round drives.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...set-94011.html

I have discovered that having a 3/8's drive 3mm really helps. These are sold by Home Depot for a break the bank amount of $2.47.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-...S3MM/202940656

I need to do one more tweak to the driver's side, and then as soon as the rain quits, I will do a driving analysis for you all, (this Thursday, Sat and Sunday will be rain free).

 

The installation is now complete. I will add my driving impressions here once the rain quits.

Some final thoughts on installation. Once you are all done, you will need someone else to help. Have the other person slowly turn the wheel lock to lock. Do this while supported AND AND AND while the wheels are at full droop. The dampers will clear. You might have to adjust them some more, but they will clear. Now keep in mind, that if your wheels are at full droop (your front end is off the ground) and your wheel is turned all the way to the lock (even if you do have just a smidge of the cylinder(s) touching) you have another problem, you are most likely in the middle of a pretty bad crash.

Mark the position(s) on the sway bar. It is easy to have the brackets move while adjusting. Tape, a hose clamp, anything to help give you a visual of the position (this is how you will be keeping the travel centered). The cylinder can pull itself back in, or push itself out while adjusting and having this instant comparison will save you time and aggravation.

 

Subscribed.. interested to hear how these work out

 

To the OP,
I will be following as well! I do have a question though, hopefully you'll be able to answer after the install....do the brackets that mount to the sway bar clamp down completely, as in "tight", I noticed in the install instructions, they mention silicone spray I think. Anyway, if the sway bar rotates/twists during driving over uneven ground or turning, is the sway bar allowed to move/rotate within the the bracket? Seems like it should be able to, I don't see him joints on that end which would allow for some articulation. My concern is, if the bracket and shimming allows for twist, what stops the bracket from "walking" from left to right and vise versa across the lateral plane of the sway bar while turning? If this is the case, it seems like there should be a two piece collar that bolts down tight on each side of each bracket. This would allow the sway bar to rotate within the bracket yet lock it in place side to side! Maybe a teflon washer on the inside of each collar between it and the bracket!? Perhaps I'm overthinking it and if I saw it in person and installed it, I would realize it's not an issue. Maybe the angle just won't let it move, even with negative or positive pressure. Anxious for your feedback on this and your driving experience! I could eat crow on this, but I believe this set-up will be beneficial and have intentions of buying it! Here in South Dakota it's -50* to 100+* throughout the year, lots of grooved highways/interstates for traction and road breakup from such deep freezing in the winter. You had mentioned poor road conditions in your state, which is exactly why someone like yourself should be doing the testing! Nobody would really need it if we all had fresh smooth blacktop to drive on! Keep us posted 👍

 

The silicone spray is to prevent excessive noise. The brackets have a sheet inside to clamp tightly, and comes with more sheets of different thicknesses to use as shims. At the end of the install instructions you can see the suggestions as to which of these shims to use.

 

Actually if I may interject. A tiny amount of silicon spray may be used to help with sway bar bracket placement. When the bracket is at the proper angle, the Allen bolts are in a tight space. With a tiny amount of spray you can first snug the bolts at an angle that is comfortable for your hands, rotate the bracket into place, and then finish tightening to limit the time spent on them. Water will also work for this.

 

I was going to also mention soapy water. I have a spray bottle I keep with just a little dish soap in the water. When putting on tight radiator hoses, etc, a spritz really helps the process.

I prefer Ivory, really. Sometimes a straight shot of it works the best.

The brackets have to clamp down completely, otherwise this product wouldn't work. There other types of hydraulic pistons on these cars, depending on year and whether or not a coupe or a convertible. The struts on the rear hatch have the end points solidly anchored. Those of you that have hydraulic assists for the hood, the same.

Think about it, if the brackets were free to move, how would the hydraulic cylinder do any actuation ?

Here is a video that can help you visualize what these will do


I didn't listen to the audio, I have no idea what it says, I was just looking for something to help folks visualize this.

If you all do some research (ie: utilizing Mr. Google), you will see how many vehicles are actually factory equipped with steering dampers/stabilizers.

 

Exactly, I understand that the damper needs to be anchored, my question was basically, if they are solidly anchored to the sway bar (which does have it's own independent movement), does this rotation/twist of the sway bar cause the bracket end to rotate also and will this bend or break the end of the ram, where it bolts to the bracket. Sway bars have bushings for rotation. Was just wondering if it's enough to make a difference, that's all. The answer must be, that the ram rotation of the damper matches the sway bar rotation and is not enough or does not force the ram attachment point outside the lateral plane of the ram and it's damper body.
​​​​​

 

I understand what you are asking. The ends should pivot on the bushings/attachment bolts. While I am under the car I will get a picture at full droop of the tire, which would happen if jacking the car up, hitting a monstrous pothole, nah I miss those.

But yes, there has to be that type of articulation to keep it from breaking itself.

The temps are coming up pretty quick. It was 34 deg when I got up at 7:30 to walk dogs, at 10:00 it is 43. Shortly it will be warm enough to work on the car. I have an unheated garage. A bit of cold isn't an issue, I have been hunting with the actual being 25 below and a wind chill of -50, of course nothing was out. It is my fingers, I don't like wrenching with gloves on. We are going back into seasonal type temps, this was one of those weird days, like when we got low 50's in August. (FYI, if the phone temp says 34, out where we live it is 32'ish, there was frost on the ground this morning).

 

The output shaft of the damper rotates 360 degrees and allows for the minor sway bar movement the bracket sees.

 

Bump to the top. I have added about the installation of the passenger side. Now that I have it figured out, installation of the dampers themselves should take less than an hour. It is harder to get the car ready (up on jackstands, tires off, etc) than it is to install the dampers.

I am going to next try the 1/4" drive extensions on the driver's side and come in from the top. If I can get to them, this will be the best way to tighten them up.

 

I'm concerned about LT5's and the external thermostat housing that would seem to be in the way on the passenger side. With all the stuff above it (oil cooler hoses, etc.) I can't see a clear angle from above either on the pass. side.

Has the developer of this device tried it on a ZR-1/LT5 and are there any pics?

 

Tomorrow I will measure over from the sway bar bracket so you will know where the bracket will actually sit at. Then you can wrap it (the sway bar) with blue tape and look down from the top and see if you can see the tape.

This is why on my car that I found out I had to use a 15" extension with a u-joint to be able to get to the little bolts to tighten them up.

There are differences you know. That is why my camber brace is specific to the 92-96 LTx cars.

There is another alternative that I was trying to work around and not have to do. You actually can drop the sway bar. You will also NOT have lines running to the radiator from the transmission that get in the way. On the 92 to 96 automatic cars, those hard lines just don't give you the room to use the allen wrench, but if I had dropped the sway bar an inch (that is all it will go without unbolting the power steering cooler) there probably would have been enough room.

Maybe you can take some pictures and add them here so we/I can see what it looks like on a ZR-1 from the bottom.

If you get the bracket into place, put hose clamp (or clamps) to keep it from moving laterally, use a witness mark or other way to make sure you don' move it angularly/rotationally (or be able to put it back), you can get it all mocked up in place, take it loose from the brackets, loosen the sway bar and tighten it up, then put the sway bar back.

When I worked on replaced the dampers on my trucks, you have to have way to break the end loose from a taper seat. I made a steel rod with a cup cut into the end so I could put the center link on a jack stand and come down in from the engine compartment and tap the steering damper loose. The center link had to be supported or it simply bounced.

There is more than 1 way to skin a cat is what I am getting at. Sometimes you just have to get creative and decide if the end result is worth the effort to you.

 

The pics of these brackets lead me to the inescapable thought that an improved design might be where the hinge of the bracket is on the reverse (blind) side, and the 2 halves are bolted together on the same face that the damper rod attaches to. As a refinement, it could be that the damper rod bolt/nut actually secures the bracket as well.

To get a visual of what I'm thinking of, consider these common clips used for a variety of applicatons:

Obviously I'm not suggesting the clips themselves be used, but the geometry of the brackets could be similar, if you get my drift. Would probably be a lot easier to install.

 

Yep, can do, but it'll probably be the weekend before I have the opportunity to do so. To get there sooner, I've been staring at car undersides on bringatrailer.com!

 

I was crazy excited for these until I seen they attach to the sway bar. I don't have one.