I am going to order a Super Pro Bushing kit from Dino in the very near future and I am trying to get a game plan ahead of time. To replace the batwing bushings can this be done with the Diff. still in the car and on jack stands.
Any advice on this undertaking would be awesome. I am also thinking that since the car will be up on stands and the half shafts probably still have 1995 u joints now would be the time to replace them.

Thank You
Hawkeye56

 

Nope.

You can do it on jack stands (I did...) but the diff has to come out. They are no small matter to push through.

While you're in there...

Driveshaft u joints?
Wheel bearings?
Trailing arm bushings?
Sway bar bushings?

I could go on, but you get the point.

 

Unfortunate I was afraid of that. I was going to replace the other bushings also.
Drive shaft u joints done
wheel bearings I have been told oem is still better than aftermarket, Unless problems exist.

Thanks Hawkeye56

 

NAPA rear bushings are SKF (the heavy duty ones). Replacing rear bearings with the half shafts in are fun. You need an extension of 24" or so to get to one of the bolts. If it was me, I would do it while it was apart and set the OEM ones on the shelf.

You could take a flashlight and look in behind them and see if grease is leaking out around the seal.

 

I did my bushings with the diff out. But I wonder if you could use a balljoint press to push them out with the diff still in the car.

 

Thanks for all the replies, I believe that it will be a very challenging undertaking. I have a lot of research to do.
Thanks Hawkeye56

 

I would leave the diff in the car, and just drop the diff cover/batwing assy out.

 

I never realized that you could do that. I would appreciate any details and advice. I will check my manual.
Thanks Hawkeye56

 

I was just on Ecklers and they offer solid aluminum "bushings" for the batwing.
I'm not sure you would want them for a street car though.

 

I'm not sure what details I can share that aren't fairly obvious, once you get under the car;
de tension the spring
remove the toe rod anchor
support the diff housing w/a jack or jack stand or cribbing or whatever
Remove the batwing/cover bolts, while having an oil catch can ready
Break the cover loose and let the oil drain
While draining, start removing the bat wing bushing bolts.
Drop the cover/batwing down and back and pull out from under the car. Change your bushings, then reverse the removal process.

 

What exactly are the batwing bushings called? i need to get 2, thanks.

 

..... It can be done but you still need to take the batwing off ... I just removed the Batwing and left the C-beam attached when I installed the aluminum bushings in mine ... I got the bushings from Van Steele ... if you are going to replace the half shaft u-joints , pull them out before you drop the diff ... you might want to remove the distributor cap too .....

 

I recently, yesterday, did the batwing bushings on my 96 and left the rear end in the car.
First off I am working in my driveway on jack stands so the clearance to get the rear end out is not so great.
I had already started the install of all of the other bushings on the back end along with new U-joint half shafts and tie rod ends. I had resigned myself to leaving the stock batwing bushings in the car but then I got to thinking about it and it looked like I could do it in the car.
Here's how it went.
I had the control arms connected to the knuckle and frame. I had the spindle/camber bar connected to the knuckle and the rear end housing. The exhaust was still in place as well and only disconnected at the rear of the car at the bumper. I have stock exhaust and it is hung on the rear end and the transmission. The sway bar is disconnected at both sides. I did not have the shocks connected and I did not have the spring connected. The shocks have to be disconnected or they will hold the rear end up. They don't have the travel needed. The spring has to be disconnected or it holds the rear end up. It doesn't look like it would but it does. The brakes are also disconnected because the brake line is not long enough to let the rear end drop far enough. I did not have the spare tire setup in the car either. This gave the room needed to work under the car with good access.
I placed a jack under the center section of the spring with a piece of wood on it as to not damage it.
I removed the nut and bolt and slid it out of ONE side of the batwing and slowly lowered the jack. At first it didn't want to move but just a little push with a screw driver and it dropped right out. I moved it about .5" at a time until it would drop down on its own. I went REALLY slow. I only dropped it enough to clear the mount.
Now the fun begins. I used a drill and drilled out as much of the bushing as possible, 6 holes through it. Then I was able to pry out the metal insert. Once that was out I could very easily pry out the rubber. Up until this point I am cruising right through this thinking no big deal. I had to get the metal pressed in sleeve out of the opening. At first I used a screw diver and hammer to beat on it some. Then I got my heavy chisel out and heavier hammer out and really went to town on the flange. Once I got about 1/3 of it off of the wing I used my sawsall and cut through it very easily. Then I could fold it back on itself and it slid right out. Needless to say that took a long time to get done as it was my first time. Then I used a C clamp and pressed in the new poly bushings. Jacked up the rear and it slid right back into place. I noticed right away there a much more noticeable gap between the metal bump stop on top of the batwing between it and the car. Then I moved to the other side the next evening and did it in about 1/3 time. Then back on with the shocks, spring with lowering bolts and brakes.

It sounds like a lot of work, because it is, but it's not super difficult. But there is a high level of danger when dealing with that spring. be careful when compressing that thing. It's like a loaded cannon.

I don't know why but bushing work takes forever and it just beats you up, and I have a press too. Over the past couple of weeks I have done the front and back with new shocks and new half shafts U-joints as well. All I have left to do is the sway bar bushings front and back. The weird thing on the front is the bushings are offset and I don't know which way they should go. Any help here would be greatly appreciated.


Dropping the rear end.


Beating the sleeve out of the opening.


It's a great feeling when it comes loose. Its amazing how thin it is and how much force it takes to get it out of there.


Cleaned up the opening.




Bushing installed and ready to slip back into place.