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As stated in another thread I am going to change my bushings. I will research everything out ahead of time. I have been reading in the manual and it mentions about torquing the upper and lower control arm’s at trim height.
I will be on jack stands with rims off.
what have you all been doing to handle this?
I have read that rubber will over work if torqued at excessive angle. What about super pro? Or am I over thinking this and just torque it down and go. At times my wife tells me that I am way too picky on details lol.
Thanks Hawkeye56
Relooking at the manual trim chart I think that I may have figured something out.
Example car sitting flat on garage floor, Distance to center of rim 12 inches. Jack car up 14 inches from floor. Now to set trim line put jack under rear disc raise till center is 24 inches off the ground and torque.
please let me know if this procedure would work.
Thanks Hawkeye56
Hawkeye, the need to torque the pivot bolts is only an issue with the stock-style rubber bushings where the rubber is bonded to the inner and outer metal sleeves. In this situation, the arm pivots by actually twisting the rubber bushing, so it's important that the rubber bushing NOT be twisted at static ride height. That's accomplished by letting the inner metal sleeve rotate loose in the frame tabs (and around the bolt) until the car is back on the ground. Then you tighten the bolt and the tabs capture the inner sleeve and keep it from spinning anymore.
But with any urethane bushing, including Super Pro, the urethane is not bonded to either metal sleeve. Instead, the idea is to have the inner metal sleeve rotate inside the urethane bushing. So it doesn't matter whether the car is at ride height or up on jack stands when you tighten the pivot bolts, because the inner sleeve will just rotate when you set the car down.
So don't worry about it. Just tighten your pivot bolts while the car is still up in the air and easy to access.