I have a 92 that won't stay running more than 2 seconds I've checked all kinds of things but have no idea how to check the opti does anyone have an idea how to do so?

 

..... You check it the same way that you would check any ignition system ... pull the coil wire and position it within 1/4" of a ground source on your engine and crank away while looking for little lightning bolts from the wire ... your deal sounds like a fuel pump issue ... the ECM will direct the fuel pump to operate for 2-3 seconds when the ignition key is turned to the run/start position and will allow the pump to run full time when the ICM determines that the engine is running ... check your Ignition Control Module ... its in a precarious place on the front of the cylinder head .....

 

CHECK fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator

 

The eng died initially when I pulled out of the garage and wouldn't start again.I read up on it and realized the water pump was leaking on the opti and thought that was the problem and replaced the opti with an aftermarket one and the water pump as well with no help. Did some more trouble shooting and realized the ICM was bad and replaced it and then it started rite up but only stay running for 2 seconds and run smooth before it would die and restart every time but only run for 2 seconds.Did lots of trouble shooting after that check the fuel pressure had a steady 44 psi at the injector rail at all times even while the eng would die. I checked the injectors they all worked good. I found a bad cylinder head water temp bulb I replaced that no help. I checked the throttle position sensor that also checked good. I removed idle control valve to check it and broke it so I replaced that as well. I also checked for vacuum leaks with none found as well as checking map transmitter that also checked good.I finally got a little upset and started it and stepped heavy on the gas pedal and found I could keep it running at about 3000 to 3500 rpm but wasn't to smooth it would skip and pop til it got to 3500 rpm. Any ideas I was wondering if I could have got a bad opti causing all this if it was easy to change I would have put the old one in just to see if there was a difference

 

You got two good ideas, right above ^that^ post. I agree with both of them.

 

Do you have any codes from the ECM? The 92/93 ECMs are also known to have cold solder issues and can be rebuilt.

 

No codes

 

Well, it's hard to tell what you're actually doing to figure this out. C409 made a good suggestion to check ignition. Simplifying that:
:When it stops running and won't start, what is missing? Spark? Or Fuel pressure?

Start there. Report back.

 

When its stop running there is still 44 psi of fuel pressure at the rail.And it will start rite up again every time but only run for 2 seconds unless I press down on throttle to keep it running at about 3500 rpm not smooth at this point so that tells me there is fuel and spark it's almost like after 2 seconds the timing skips 20 degrees

 

I doubt that is happening, but it would be easy to verify. Mark the damper, get a timing light, have someone start the car and watch the mark as it runs and then stalls.

When it's running, and as it's stalling and the engine is slowing to a stop.....OR when you "press down on throttle to keep it running at about 3500 rpm not smooth at this point".....during any/all of that, what is the tach needle doing? Is it bouncing around? Or is it steady/stable and aligned with the actual engine RPM?

 

The tach needle is steady but I like the idea of a timing light hope I'll be able to try that soon I hurt my ankle and can't walk at the moment so I'm not sure when I'll be able to do that but t hanks for the idea.

 

The only way I know to once and for all "Test" the opti is to remove and send to the optidoc to be tested as he does. Dan

 

No, that is not the only way. There are a plethora of ways to test an opti. The tach needle is the fastest/quickest way to do a first check. The OP said that his tach needle is steady so it's unlikely that the opti is causing his issue.

The BEST way is to hook up a scan tool that has data streaming or a scope and watch the signals, yourself.

 

..... Check your fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for raw gasoline ... its quite possible that the diaphragm has ruptured ... Orrrrr ... you have a large vacuum leak somewhere that is affecting the air fuel ratio .....

 

Good ideas right there^^^

 

Get a noid light (injector test light) and a spark tester. Make sure there is constant strong arcing when engine is cranking and running. Check and make sure all injector connectors have 12v and will blink noid light cranking. 92-93 use " batch fire" fuel injection it cycles 4 injectors at a time. You maybe able feather throttle keeping engine running on 4 cylinders but you won't be able to drive it. There are 2 injector fuses. The ECM grounds injector circuits to pulse injectors

 

I checked no ruptured diaphragm and no vacuum leaks

 

I did use injector test light but I did not use a spark tester

 

If what you're saying is true:
You have spark
You have fuel pressure
You "used an injector tester" (What did you see?)
You looked for vacuum leaks leaks and found none....

....and it's still doing the same thing, I'd want to get some data stream going so that I could watch all of the sensors and actuators w/my own eyes to see what's happening.

 

With the injector tester everyone flashed evenly and I found no vacuum leaks and it's still doing the same thing.As far as data stream how could I do this?