Well im going to be ordering a coilover kit and i was wondering what exactly i need to know to install these coilovers myself.

I know you have to widen the shock base...?? how do u go about doing this :confused:

If someone could tell me in very simple terms it would be great... :D Im not to good with terminology :(

thanks guys :cheers:

 

I was under the impression that the shock tower widening was only an issue with the early C4s... but I am not sure.

from what I understand, its really not much harder than installing shocks. except you need to remove the transverse springs!!!!!!!!!

personally, I would like to know, too...

 

ttt

 

check over the zr1 section and ask there but I am almost positive that I seen someone with a detailed install of coil overs on their ZR1 section some time ago

 

For the front you have to widen the shock towers. You can do so by basically hammering it out less than 1/8" on each side. Sounds brutal but it's not. Remember you have to make sure that the coil springs will not rub on the sides of the towers so that's why you have to widen it.

Any more questions just ask

 

What coilover setup are you getting?

 

im going to go with a setup from QA1... The setup is not a kit from Qa1 but i will be using the Proma Star 12-way adjustable, 10 1/8" - 14" shocks. One of the forum members sent me a spreadsheet on exactly what parts are needed and prices... I believe the forum member's name is the The Torch or something... :cheers:

 

Theses are the parts i am going to be using... am I missing anything???

Front Shocks

Part Part # Description
Shock DR4855P Proma Star 12-way adjustable, 10 1/8" - 14"
Stud Top SS110SDM Stud top conversion kit
Upper T-Bar UPR350 Upper T-Bar Kit
Spring 10-425 10" 425 lb/in



Rear Shocks

Shock DR4855P Proma Star 12-way adjustable, 10 1/8" - 14"
Stud Top SS110SDM Stud top conversion kit
Spring 10-350 10" 350 lb/in
Bracket 10097836 Upper Shock-to-Frame bracket

:crazy: :crazy: :cheers: :cheers:


[Modified by Izover4u, 12:39 AM 12/10/2002]

 

ttt :cheers:

 

Hi! Just did my '95 install and was going to post something on the Fourum.

Before you start, measure the ride height at four corners as accurate
as possible. ALso measure the height of the front crossmenber and diff to
the ground so you have a base line.
1) You should not have to modify the shock tower:
Coin overs come in several sizes, 2 5/8 and 2 1/5 diameter are most common but they come in 1 7/8ths diameter that is ideal for the C4. Clearance
will be close at the top. Make sure the spring is centered in the seat. You must
make sure none of the active coils touch anything but the top in-active coil is where any problem would be if production variances on tower caused an issue
One wack with a mallet, or touch with a grinder may be necessary in some cases but this should be a non-issue from 92 to 96. I never did this on
a older C4 so I will not comment. Perhaps someone can verify that?
2) You don't have to remove the lower control arms:
once the spring tension is released with the lower balljoint seperated
from the spindle you can push the lower control arm down with your foot
until its almost streight down. This was more than enough to get the spring
out. Once the center clamps are removed, slide it out via the passanger side
3) You must be very careful releasing the spring tension from the control arm:
This can be done with a high quality floor jack positioned in line with the
spring, so the jack pad is on the balljoint and the handle is facing the
center of the car. jack up, remove the center bolt on lower balljoint, then slowly release jack to lower the LCA about .5 inch, if the balljoint does not
seperate than use the fork tool to pop it lose, but make sure hands,
arms and body parts are clear of the LCA. Work slow and think about
where you are and where the LCA & Spring will go if it ever sliped off the jack.

There will be slight tension at the spring center, so
remove the center bolts progressively Work slow and careful, once the spring is out, push the LCA down out of the way.
4) Installing the coilover is the same as replacing the damper.
They should have the lower seats screwed down so there is no tension
on the new spring so it will slip into place.
Check for clearance at all the free coils, it will be close at the top. The Unit should use a sperical (ball) bushing at the bottom in a flat bracket that bolts
to the stock lower mount. They screw a stud mount on the top so it attaches
using the stock mounting rubber donuts and backing cups.
5) The rear is easer and uses a spacer on the lower damper stud mount.
Remove the rear spring as the front. First placing the jack on the end
and take up the tension buy jacking up.
Removing the spring bolt carefully keeping hands and arms clear, then slowly lower the jack releasing the tension. Keeping clear.
Remove the center brackets, spring and rear shocks. When you
attached the rear lower mounts, there should be a spacer supplied to
space the shock inward away from the suspension links.
6) Set the ride height, alignment, and corner weight the car:
Remember you can't equalize weight side to side, you are only worried about
making the diagnals equal unless you want wedge in the car, and
there are tracks where it is appropriate to do so. You will gain camber
as you lower the car, so if achieving max neg campber was a problem it
may not be anymore. I ended up at -2.5 starting from near 0.
Misc/FYI Stuff
=========
When the dampers & springs are out of the car and sway bars disconnected
this is good time to consider the following:
1) shim the sway bar center mounts so that there is no pre-load or twist
and make sure the sway bars move easy and do not bind. I make sure
I can easily slide the end link bolts in and out by hand with no effort and
shim the offending side until I can. I also threw my $45 polly busings in
the garbage can because they binded up the bar solid and put the stock
busings back. I am convinced that Dick Shine (Shine Racing GT4/GP) is right: Pollyeurthane is evil and has no place on a race car -but I digress.
2) Get a "feel" for Bump Steer:
a)Temporally re-attach the lower balljoints and jack the lower control
arms to what was the stock ride height and measure total toe at reast and
at least two inches in compression and rebound at one inch intervals. Get
some idea what the bump steer is on the car and in what direction the
wheels are moving. I lost/gain 1/8 inch so there IS work to be done here.
b) put the LCA in a position that will lower the car the amount you had in
mind, 1 inch, 1.5 inch, 2.inch whatever?
c) do the same thing measuring toe in at least two inches of travel from
the new static position. Make sure nothing hits and Make sure the toe changes
are not totally out of wack compaired to what then where before.l

The purpose of this excersize is that you are going to find a ride height
that is "acceptable" but if you go past that point the tie rods/steering rack
will not be orientated with the LCA and you will get a lot of bump steer. The more you lower the car the more you have to raise the steering rack or outer
tie rod ends. They ain't much room under there to do anyting with the
steering rack but there are racing kits to convert the outer
tie rods to heim joints that can be shimmed. You will find this stuff
at places like AFCO, Coleman Racing. The people who did your coil
over kit will probably have some specific ride height recomendations
or range.

True, this is race car stuff but then again so are coil overs and you ain't gonna be in stock class anyway.
You can do the same in the rear. Guildstrand make repalcement rear
tie rods that can be shimmed for this purpose, Personally, I would be
more worried about bump steer in the rear.
You can get real serious about this and get a bump steer gague and
dial indicator's and get it close to perfect. The result: I had an opportunity
to drive a PROD car. You charge up to a corner nail the brakes and I fellt
as if I could have taken my hands off the steering wheel (of course I
did't but you get what I mean?) before turning in. You won't dare think
that in my car.

If you truly got some time on your hands, (this is my winter project)
then find out where your roll center ended up or down as the case my be.
But this is way off topic.

I got pictures that I can post as soon as I can figure out how to. I wanted
to do a post where the above text would have the corresponding photo's .
Feel free to email me direct of you want to look at pics in the interm

I suppose I better put the normal disclamer: this is the prodedure I used
without any problems that I wish to share, if you bust you butt working on
your car I'm not responsible. Compressed springs can kill you.

Mark Vitacco
SCCA/Tarheel Sports Car Club
mvitacco@nc.rr.com
:cheers:

 

if/when you get the coil over setup can you weight the coils and post the weight?????????????????

Im looking into the exotic muscle setup, but right now my VB&P suspension is fine.

 

*edit* I see who you are getting the kit from.........


[Modified by Speedracer176, 11:44 PM 12/11/2002]

 

thank you so much... this is going to help me out big time :cheers: I should be ordering my parts very soon... until then i printed your directions out... And if i get stuck somewhere along the line i will shoot you an email... hopefully it all works out for me as it did for you :cheers: