Since my engine is apart I'm thinking of adding an AFR Hydra Rev Kit to the car. I'm not sure if I'll gain anything since I shift @ 6000, but it might help sqeak a few more HP out above 6000 if I got caught in a situation that required it. :)

 

Cant hurt.... I say you get it..... Then tell me how it turns out :D

What are you up to with that motor now?? Just fixing the pistion, changing bearing, anf fixing the head???

 

The cylinder head welding should be finished today. I put an order in with summit for gaskets, rod bearing, and new head bolts.

I'll probably take a rod & piston out of my original L98 and use that if they are within a few grams of each other. I'm not sure if I'll use the rings on the current #6, or hone the cylinder walls and put new rings in. We'll see.

 

explain... what is this Hydra Rev Kit??? never heard of such a thing.

 

Basically it adds another spring on your lifters and makes sure your lifters stay in the bores and prevents valve float. Comp Cams also makes them...
http://www.airflowresearch.com/pages/hydra_rev.htm

 

How much does that kit go for anyways??? I think it would work... and would probably be worth it... Anything that helps squeeze out more RPMS is a good thing in my book

 

with your application I would not get the hydra rev kit.

 

Scorp,
If your looking for extra hp, this will not give you any. I seriously doubt that you are experiencing lifter bounce/float so you will not benefit from it. It is designed to allow you more rpm, but is intended to keep the lifters in place if they are actually bouncing because of high rpm and heavy lifters. I've even used them so I could run a lighter valve spring, I was using titanium valves and retainers so valve float was not an issue, in a solid flat tappet 335ci. small block that I was spinning 8500+ rpm in a stock car. They do help, I just do not think you will see any hp/benefit from using them unless you are planning on 7000+ rpm, or you are experiencing lifter bounce. I think you would be further ahead with a little bit stonger valve spring to keep your valves under control. Just my opinion, not trying to tell ya what to run. How long before it lives again? Good luck........can't get any worse! :lol: Just kiddin' Scorp. :cheers: Oh yeah, I forgot something :rolleyes: The link you provided and its dyno results are probably very misleading. What I'm saying is that the street cylinder head doesn't have the correct valve spring that comp cams would recomend for their cam. Unless they changed it, which I doubt, and that is why they can claim the hp gain that they do. The wrong valve spring, too light, will allow for valve float/lifter bounce and therefore the rev kit will be benificial. If you have the correct valve spring, or are not experiencing valve float or lifter bounce you will not see a benifit from the rev kit. I think thats everything! :cheers:


[Modified by sinistervette, 2:55 AM 12/10/2002]

 

Yes it can. :lol: Thanks for the info. I should just send this damn intake off for porting. :) As for how long before she lives again I'm not sure. I have to get the head back and then I might have to mill the set if the repaired one requires it. Its all going to depend on how warm it is outside to work on it. Today didn't get any higher than 22*. :)

 

Scorp,

Man I wish you lived closer we could share my garage and lend a hand to each other...as for the Hydra rev...not sure if it would help or hurt. I know i just read a post or an article somewhere that said they lost 18 ft/lb with the unit. Now every setup might be different, but I would have to agree with the fact we don't rev these engines that high and it might be overkill...guess its one of those things you would have to just try, but without a good before, you wouldn't know if it was helping or hurting, and for gods sake you don't want to have to pull that SR off AGAIN just for a test....or do ya? :lol:

 

Think I could charge $100 to remove them for people? :D

 

Scorp,
Here is an offer for you.....I have one of the crane rev kits yet(it is new), been on my shelf for probably 10 years! If you want when you get your car running again, drop me an email and I'll let you try it. If you want to pay for the shipping, and also go through the work of installing it, I'd rather see you try mine instead of buying one. I honestly think you will not see a benefit, but when you get it running if you are getting what you think is valve float, I'll send it to ya' and you can try it! Let me know, Al. :cheers:


[Modified by sinistervette, 3:28 AM 12/10/2002]

 

:)

 

hey scorp,my brother runs one on his 89 trans am with a 406 with canfield aluminum heads and he gained 400 more rpm with it,never noticed any more power but it allowed him to get more rpm with it.

 

What does he spin that sucker to?

 

Scorp

I run the AFR rev kit so I'll tell you about exp with it.

I shift my engine around 7000RPM. I currently run a Hyd Roller and can only assume the REV kit has something to do with that. But in my opinion unless your trying to get above 6500RPM I would think a GOOD set of springs would be good enough.

KM

 

i wouldn't even debate the used rings scorp, not with file fits so cheap these days. old heated rings tend to crack under stress, if you plan on nitrous and some rpms i really really think a new plasma moly ring set should be used. why take serious chances over $100 ?

 

Why introduce frictional losses by adding spring pressure to your valve train and more load on your timing chain if you don't have valve float. What I am trying to say here is you will kill a little hp by adding more spring pressure. If you have not already, go for a lighter valve and retainer and run just enough spring pressure to avoid float while getting the desired RPM you want. This way you won't shoot yourself in the foot.

If my memory serves me correctly the LT1 runs about 85lbs seat pressure and the LT4 runs about 100lbs stock. The LT4 spins to 6500RPM and has hollow valves so with this you can make a pretty good guess as to what you might need depending on what motor config you are running and what RPM you plan on spinning to. Good luck on the rebuild... :thumbs:

 

scorp my brother also runs a solid roller with over 600 lift he shifts it 6800

 

Hey Scorp - Running Stage II AFR's, 219 w/1.6's, MR 383, car floated valves at about 6300-6400. Then I put an AFR rev kit in when I swapped cams to the ZZ409. Now the motor readily revs cleanly (and strongly) up to 6600. Haven't had it to the track yet, or tried revving past 6600, but I'm real happy with what the kit did to my car. But if you aren't running hi revs, the kit probably won't help performance. I got the idea from my machinist-buddy, who put an AFR rev kit on his otherwise-stock Lt-1 w/ Hotcam, can rev nearly 7000rpm. Amazing! That motor, in the rear of an S10 pickup, ran 11.6's. Of course the "bulb" burned out, but it sure did shine bright for two seasons... You'll find that folk are very opinionated about the Rev Kit. I was insulted (incredibly by a supporting vendor of this forum) over this topic not long ago. Unbelievable what some people think is acceptable behavior. Hope I don't get flamed for this!