To poly or not to poly???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,168
Likes: 16
From: Phoenix AZ
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (sraft)
I had problems on my street car with the rear trailing arms squeaking where they connect to the car body. No amount of the special grease would cure it. I replaced them with GM (you have to buy the whole trailing arm) and it went away. Also had problems with the front A-arms squeaking, but I fixed that by drilling a hole in the A-arm where the busing is and threading in a zerk fitting so I could grease them with a grease gun. Worked great.
My race car is completely heim-jointed in the rear which means NO play whatsoever. The front is poly with a camber brace. At the track, you can feel the road as if you were sliding the palm of your hand across it. Great for the track, but I don't think you'd want that on the street.
[Modified by vetracer, 5:22 PM 12/14/2002]
My race car is completely heim-jointed in the rear which means NO play whatsoever. The front is poly with a camber brace. At the track, you can feel the road as if you were sliding the palm of your hand across it. Great for the track, but I don't think you'd want that on the street.
[Modified by vetracer, 5:22 PM 12/14/2002]
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Spokane Wa
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (sraft)
I did my front and rear (bought from summit ) along with new replacement bilstiens from ecklers. The car is incredable on handling. I might recommend a lighter shock though. It's over 6000 mile now and the gas filler cap still opens and closes on an average street. Don't even think about a street in poor condition. But on the highway over 50. The car is flat and absolutley predictable. Not going to change a thing, unless I go to coil overs.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,198
Likes: 2
From: Northern CA
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (castivers)
I read in a past thread where someone said the polyurethane bushings squeek and the polygraphite ones don't. I have this on my to do list for the spring and would like to know if its true.
[Modified by JasonL, 8:08 PM 12/15/2002]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (h rocks)
Absolutely harsher?? You have a '96? What else did you do to it?
[Modified by fullboogie, 2:21 PM 12/16/2002]
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Instructor
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 159
Likes: 1
From: Denver CO
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (h rocks)
Someone mentioned the Global West bushings. I have run these in cars before and they do wonders for handling. They also DO NOT squeak. But, I think that they transmit alot of noise to the chassis. Suddenly you can hear your tires making noises over every pebble, and you can feel everything in the pavement. Just like Vetracers description of heim jointed components. Its like running your hand over the rough pavement. The car will ride soft as long as the springs and shocks are setup properly, but the noise level goes up alot. And I don't mean squaking noises.
-Ken
-Ken
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (h rocks)
Not to be a super wiseguy, but why are you driving a C4 then?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,366
Likes: 34
Re: To poly or not to poly???
H Rocks and Ken.
With those Aluminum and Delrin bushings, how much louder is the tire noise?
Something the stereo can cover up?
And does it sounds like it is comming through the frame?
With those Aluminum and Delrin bushings, how much louder is the tire noise?
Something the stereo can cover up?
And does it sounds like it is comming through the frame?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 4,623
Likes: 2
From: Ohio
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (bill mcdonald)
Bill, I'm the wrong one to ask. I run the GW bushings for performance above all else. My car is 99% tracktime. Still street legal, but mainly to do shakedown runs and brake pad bedding at nights in the local industrial park.
Fullboogie, ok now I get it. As far as the ride characteristics, if your main interest is dialing out the "harshness" there's only so much you can do. Consider some of the following:
Run the minimum recommended air pressure noted on your door sticker.
Go to a "cruiser" shock like the Edlebrock IAS. Should be real cushy.
If you need tires, try a non super performance, stiff sidwall tire. Something more akin to a GY, Michelin, or BFG relatively high perf. sedan tire with a higher numerical aspect ratio.
[Modified by h rocks, 11:31 PM 12/17/2002]
Fullboogie, ok now I get it. As far as the ride characteristics, if your main interest is dialing out the "harshness" there's only so much you can do. Consider some of the following:
Run the minimum recommended air pressure noted on your door sticker.
Go to a "cruiser" shock like the Edlebrock IAS. Should be real cushy.
If you need tires, try a non super performance, stiff sidwall tire. Something more akin to a GY, Michelin, or BFG relatively high perf. sedan tire with a higher numerical aspect ratio.
[Modified by h rocks, 11:31 PM 12/17/2002]
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: Houston Tx
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (fullboogie)
fullboogie, is your car a Z51 car? I thought I rememebered it was....anyway, I have a F45 car and it is extremely comfy- I was very surprised when I bought the car. These are softer springs and ride very well. I actually want to go to a more stiff spring, I do less drag racing (which these springs are AWESOME for - talk about rear weight transfer ) and more autoXing and open tracking.....dont know if you would be up for a trade? Anyway, your ride will improve slightly getting away from the runflats as mentioned above. I would also stay away from anything other than stock rubber bushings if ride is what you are after.
I previously had a 97 Cobra and stock it rode very well but was much too soft to seriously autoX or open track. I lowered it and changed springs and shocks/struts and bushings, big improvement in handling , ride did suffer to some degree.
:seeya
I previously had a 97 Cobra and stock it rode very well but was much too soft to seriously autoX or open track. I lowered it and changed springs and shocks/struts and bushings, big improvement in handling , ride did suffer to some degree.
:seeya
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (Shriker)
Shriker-
I just looked at my codes, and it's an F45, which I gather is softer than a Z51. Still, the car bangs and jumps all over the place on any kind of pothole, and rides just like my old 93 stang with stiff lowering springs, Konis set on full hard, poly throughout, and solid bushing rear control arms. I didn't like that ride, and this car feels just like it. I'm pretty confident, after seeing the construction of the runflats, that new tires will make a big difference. Thanks for the offer for the swap, though.
I just looked at my codes, and it's an F45, which I gather is softer than a Z51. Still, the car bangs and jumps all over the place on any kind of pothole, and rides just like my old 93 stang with stiff lowering springs, Konis set on full hard, poly throughout, and solid bushing rear control arms. I didn't like that ride, and this car feels just like it. I'm pretty confident, after seeing the construction of the runflats, that new tires will make a big difference. Thanks for the offer for the swap, though.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (sraft)
QUOTE: Are there any lubricants (wet or dry) that provide squeak relief?
My former :cry vette had the poly bushings. It was a base 1991 that I upgraded to poly bushings and Z51 Bilsteins. They did squeak if not lubed. I used a wet graphite spray I found at NAPA that worked really well. It would last about 6-8 weeks of daily driving. For best coverage, I would raise the car on jack stands and shoot some on each of the bushings, front and rear.
I was a good trade-off, the car handled much better. It was not harsh, good balance. However, one of the reasons I changed was because the car was sounding like a creaky rocking chair going over speed bumps. You trade one set of noises for another. After being lubed though, no noises whatsoever. It just becomes a new maintenance routine.
My former :cry vette had the poly bushings. It was a base 1991 that I upgraded to poly bushings and Z51 Bilsteins. They did squeak if not lubed. I used a wet graphite spray I found at NAPA that worked really well. It would last about 6-8 weeks of daily driving. For best coverage, I would raise the car on jack stands and shoot some on each of the bushings, front and rear.
I was a good trade-off, the car handled much better. It was not harsh, good balance. However, one of the reasons I changed was because the car was sounding like a creaky rocking chair going over speed bumps. You trade one set of noises for another. After being lubed though, no noises whatsoever. It just becomes a new maintenance routine.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,955
Likes: 2
Re: To poly or not to poly??? (fullboogie)
I just installed poly bushings in the rear of my '96 F45, finished yesterday morning and got it aligned in the afternoon.
I LOVE the poly bushings! The rear feels solid and predictable, nice and tight around corners. Yes, I feel bumps, but before they would make the car feel like it was uncontrolled, now you feel the bump but then it's gone. I also installed poly-adjustable camber rods (Smart Struts) and Heavy Duty Toe Rods (all parts were from Vette Brakes).
I plan to do the fronts some time in the next year or so, and upgrade to Z51 swaybars.
Jeff
I LOVE the poly bushings! The rear feels solid and predictable, nice and tight around corners. Yes, I feel bumps, but before they would make the car feel like it was uncontrolled, now you feel the bump but then it's gone. I also installed poly-adjustable camber rods (Smart Struts) and Heavy Duty Toe Rods (all parts were from Vette Brakes).
I plan to do the fronts some time in the next year or so, and upgrade to Z51 swaybars.
Jeff