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I am getting ready to tackle putting in my new Super Pro Bushing kit, I was looking up torque specs for all of the locations that I will be working on and no spec showed up for the Two large nuts on the Upper Control Arm, I downloaded Corvette Centrals replacement guide and it states that GM never intended for these bushings to be replaced. So I am asking for advice from C4 forum members who have tackled this job.
I am getting ready to tackle putting in my new Super Pro Bushing kit, I was looking up torque specs for all of the locations that I will be working on and no spec showed up for the Two large nuts on the Upper Control Arm, I downloaded Corvette Centrals replacement guide and it states that GM never intended for these bushings to be replaced. So I am asking for advice from C4 forum members who have tackled this job.
Thank You
Hawkeye56
Set your torque wrench low and creep up on the breakaway torque it takes to remove them, after you clean the exposed threads and soak the bolts in penetrating oil. Should get you close enough. On older 70-82 gm cars when I was a tech we would do that if we couldn't get specs and never had a problem. Maybe check prothane or energy suspension website and see if they list instructions for their c4 kits?
Thank you for your advice, But from what I have read the lock nut is red lock title and you have to heat the nut up to remove, So I do not know if what you suggest would work. I am afraid that I would get a false reading.
Thanks Hawkeye56
I used 40 on mine for the front upper large nuts. That came from corvette central... it is only an aluminum piece. And that loctite is strong. I couldn't get it with a breaker and needed my impact. Passenger side was worse than driver for some reason.
I used 40 on mine for the front upper large nuts. That came from corvette central... it is only an aluminum piece. And that loctite is strong. I couldn't get it with a breaker and needed my impact. Passenger side was worse than driver for some reason.
40 is a good starting point, I am going to use the original steel piece. I have read that you have to heat the large nut up to help get it off.
Thanks Hawkeye56
40 is a good starting point, I am going to use the original steel piece. I have read that you have to heat the large nut up to help get it off.
Thanks Hawkeye56
the original is aluminum actually. The shaft that goes through the middle that locates the 2 bushings that is. The nuts may be steel but it wasn't very tight once it broke free.
the original is aluminum actually. The shaft that goes through the middle that locates the 2 bushings that is. The nuts may be steel but it wasn't very tight once it broke free.
My bad, I would have thought steel but I can understand being aluminum.
Thank You for the information
Hi Hawkeye56, This is from my Ridetech coil over installation manual 35-40 ft-lbs is about right according to them (I leaned on the higher side and torqued mine to 40 ft-lbs, hope this helps.
My bad, I would have thought steel but I can understand being aluminum.
Thank You for the information
Hawkeye56
All good. It is the only spec not listed in any GM book to the best of my knowledge. It was considered a non service part to the base of anything I could find and the assembly was sold complete in my research. I will tell you it is tough aluminum. I broke several case hardened self tappers and bits trying to fix a screw up. IIrc it is both forged and heat treated so it is pretty tough.
The ride tech one is more reputable for sure. Glad they agree.
All good. It is the only spec not listed in any GM book to the best of my knowledge. It was considered a non service part to the base of anything I could find and the assembly was sold complete in my research. I will tell you it is tough aluminum. I broke several case hardened self tappers and bits trying to fix a screw up. IIrc it is both forged and heat treated so it is pretty tough.
The ride tech one is more reputable for sure. Glad they agree.